JBBenson
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Posts posted by JBBenson
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Received, thanks Chuck.
Is the material hot or cold rolled? I am guessing it isn't stainless..
I am asking because I figure it needs some weather protection.....
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Looking at the video again, that noise isn't normal......maybe it's time to revisit some of the work you did:
Perhaps the valve/rocker adjusters have worked themselves loose?
Maybe they were set to the wrong spec when you did them?
Maybe the timing chain tensioner etc. was installed improperly?
Not doubting your ability, but maybe the obvious answer is the right one after all?
I have, a few times, installed things backwards or wrong, or left a bolt loose, and only caught it later when it didn't work, or made horrible noises.
Just saying.
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Leaks are tricky, they can migrate from where they started. Are you sure its not leaking from the splined shaft in the left of the photo? Is that the shift lever input? I am trying to orient myself.
In any case, for anaerobic flange sealing, try Loctite 518.
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Ran a second ground from one tach mounting bolt to the other. Seems to have fixed my intermittently bouncing (original Veglia) tachometer.
Then I did a 330 mile rounder from L.A. to the desert and back.
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If you have the Vacula bleed system , reverse bleeding is THE way to go !
If not , use the clear tube w / the loop and squeeze til you get it !
Why the loop?
The loop keeps the expelled air bubbles from getting sucked back into the cylinder. I bought a bleed bottle that makes it easier, something like this:
I have tried those reverse bleeders, (like Mity-vac), I could never get them to work properly.
So I use the bleeder bottle and squeezing the lever. A lot.
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I had a similar problem on the Aprilia: clutch was fine when cold, when warm wouldn't disengage.
Keep bleeding, there is old crappy fluid and/air/water in there preventing the clutch from disengaging. Run 1/2 a bottle through it, can't save it once its opened anyway.
Alternatively, the clutch line itself is expanding when you pull the lever, leading to the same result.
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Sounds like you have a bad ground. Check all grounds to the chassis first before doing anything else.
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If you are running the stock crossover, it may be the internals have worked themselves loose and are rattling around. I recall an older thread about a intermittent rattle that drove the owner crazy until he discovered the source in the crossover...
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A regular blast out to the desert:
Recent trip to SFO:
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Did the tappet failure only apply to the 4V heads only the 2V twin spark, or both?
Pete Roper would be the authority on this I would guess....
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I was looking for a used Stelvio, (which uses the same engine as the Norge) but the entire flat tappet fiasco turned me off, so I ended up with a used Aprilia Caponord.
If you want a Norge, make sure it is a model year 2013 or newer, or that the seller can prove that the engine was converted to roller tappets.
Look for the engine number to determine if it has roller tappets:
Stelvio AC : After AC12596 03/12/2012GRiSO A8 : After 13524 04/12/2012Norge AA : After 12214 04/18/2012Rumors are that MG is making a new Stelvio, so maybe I will get one of those whenever it arrives....
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I have this:
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/sw-motech-evo-cargobag-tail-bag
Works well with the passenger seat cowl still on, or remove the cowl if you need a bit more space (or a softer, flatter bottom surface, like if you need to carry a laptop)
I ended up using this for the tail, and a Chase Harper 1360BLK tank bag.
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I always just lube up the gasket with some oil and turn the filter until it's "good 'n tight"
......then add the hose clamp to keep it there.
You are going to do this, right? Sort of like this, keeps the filter from working itself loose:
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That's a good question. With my slightly lower clip-ons, and raising the forks a bit in the triples, I think I have done what I could to counter the "ass-heavy" V11. But I really don't know.
But, motorcycles are such a dynamic environment, especially front to back, with accelerating and braking forces, much more so than cars, not to mention the rider shifting back and forth.....also, the rider's weight is a factor too, being a much larger percentage of the total weight than with a car.
I guess holding a "normal" riding position when measuring....?
Let us know what the results are.....in any case, I am sure the red-frame Sports are better at it....
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Hyperpro 460. Around 500-550 bucks. Didn't get the external reservoir thingy. I might have gone for a Penske but they were estimating 4 weeks delivery at the time I needed one.
MUCH better than the stock Sachs. I had the fork springs done too, (Race Tech) and new valves.
Together, they transformed the bike....
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Having sorted a finicky V11 Sport, and now sorting a finicky Caponord, I can say that the things that will make you crazy, and possibly leave you stranded, are things like a $1.50 length of vacuum hose, a .99 cent clamp, or a $3.00 relay.
So I will carry all of these things with me, forever, like magic talismans.....
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I wouldn't risk it. I've heard many horror stories about do it yourself products delaminating, which can (in a worst case scenario) ruin your engine. I did the same thing you did, ie upgraded my '01 to an in tank pump and filter setup, but I sent my tank to be professionally lined by these guys: http://www.gastanklining.com
Not worth it to me personally to mess around with something as critical as this.
Huh. These guys are like 10 minutes from me. Maybe I will stop by and show them my V11 and see what they say.
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I don't think there is a gasket in there. Judging from the width of the gasket hanging on the stud, will it create a rim that intrudes into the exhaust flow? I don't see how it will seat in there. I am probably not being helpful. Sorry.
Wait, I see a tiny "step" from the rusty ring to the darker, innermost ring. Is that the lip you are trying to get a pick under? If that's the "old gasket", it has a smaller width that the new one, right? It might be that the small "step" crushes the gasket and makes a tight seal. The gasket is a softer material, right?
Did you try PB blaster to see if the "old gasket" breaks loose?
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I had the same issue, turned out the tach bulb socket had broken loose and was shorting against the metal tach housing......I ended up epoxying it back in.
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"Idles nicely then after 30 or 40 pulses gives a violent pulse that seems to stop the engine in it's tracks, I equate this to firing well before TDC and trying to change direction."
I had this EXACT symptom. It DID feel like the engine was almost trying to run backwards, sometimes with a weird clunk or banging sound.It was solved by doing what Docc prescribes above, although I didn't do the CO trim, and we don't have ethanol free gas here, so I used Redline SL-1 fuel system cleaner to get any crud out.I would add: check intake rubbers for cracks, and make sure there are no exhaust leaks. The V11 is weirdly sensitive to exhaust leaks.Yes exactly that.
I started going through Docc's check list, the TPS was quite a way out, how do those move?
I have a wideband O2 sensor, that's no use for setting the O2 is it?
My TPS kept drifting, turned out it was the fuel hose pressing against it ever so slightly, remember that we are talking fractions of a millimeter to throw it out, go to post #15 (bottom of page) by me here:
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18910&page=1
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Cliff, the bike has been parked for over a year.
No, the MyECU has been flawless, it's only recently been suggested that perhaps the CO needs resetting.
For the longest time I assumed it was getting an odd pulse from say the phase sensor causing it to fire earlier, most unlike a mixture issue.
The bike runs so nice apart from the sneeze at idle, gobs of power and good fuel economy, Again to describe the symptoms.
Idles nicely then after 30 or 40 pulses gives a violent pulse that seems to stop the engine in it's tracks, I equate this to firing well before TDC and trying to change direction.
I have been sidetracked for the last year or two by some mature older ladies.
84 California II, 72 Eldorado, 86 Lario
"Idles nicely then after 30 or 40 pulses gives a violent pulse that seems to stop the engine in it's tracks, I equate this to firing well before TDC and trying to change direction."
I had this EXACT symptom. It DID feel like the engine was almost trying to run backwards, sometimes with a weird clunk or banging sound.It was solved by doing what Docc prescribes above, although I didn't do the CO trim, and we don't have ethanol free gas here, so I used Redline SL-1 fuel system cleaner to get any crud out.I would add: check intake rubbers for cracks, and make sure there are no exhaust leaks. The V11 is weirdly sensitive to exhaust leaks. -
I have had a similar problem when on trailing throttle, i.e. closing throttle on deceleration.
Turned out the throttle was not completely closing, and was confusing the ECU, so it would stumble and sometimes stall when I stopped.
I adjusted the cables and RH grip so it closes completely and the problem went away. I also changed my riding style to make sure I close the throttle completely and not hold it slightly open with the weight of my hand.
Lucky Phil extender mod
in Technical Topics
Posted
Which hole in the extender mod did you connect the linkage to? Shortest throw or longest?