Ouiji Veck Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 While waiting (in 50deg temps!!) for my forks I'm moving on to by passing the headlight switch gear with the "relay" set up. I've got the nice color drawing (though my wires are Y/Brn/Grn-gry/BL) my real concern is ...Do I just cut the existing wires "above" the connector and put solder joints and spade connectors on everywhere ...or below the connector or is there a way to utilize the connectors? Just looking for consensus and possible hidden disasters.. Speaking of hidden disasters ...the philips screws holding my alt. cover on had to be locktited in...I snapped the last head off with the impact driver. After a day of vise gripping, drinking, swearing and playing my guitar to her I finally resorted to an 1100deg heat gun...in lieu of the propane torch. WORKED LIKE A CHARM! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emry Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 If I recall when I did my scura I just ran new leads from the bat (terminals are a tight fit now) and used exsisting spade connectors. Someone here had already done the homework. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd haven Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 This guy has what you need: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/Pro...ts/h4_kits.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzi323 Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 This guy has what you need: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/Pro...ts/h4_kits.html I'll happily second that. The headlight relay setup they sell is really well made and requires no cutting of anything. I've done a lot of wiring myself building complete harnesses over the years but I still bought one of these for all my daily driver bikes because it's just so nicely made and reasonably priced. johnk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 I highly recommend this modification to anyone who rides at night on a pre-Breva Guzzi Six Speed, and to anyone with the early six speeds where the lighting eletricity flows through the weak, normally on, side of the starter relay, regardless of whether they ride at night. If you install a higher watt bulb(not that I recommend that), the difference will be even more dramatic. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Bean Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 That's a very noticeable difference I'm guessing the correct one to get is the H4 Single Headlight Relay Kit - shell mount? Has anyone tried the H4 Weatherproof Headlight Relay Kit version with the posi-lock connectors and remote relays? I'm wondering if there is enough room in headlight shell for all the stuff on the first one? Randy I should have read the webpage a little better. Sounds like they now give you the option of using posi-loc connectors on any version so only the relays would have to fit inside the shell with the first option. That sounds easier. Does this sound right? Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 You may leave the original socket in place and plug the relay harness wiring into the socket if you like the option of reverting quickly to the original setup. The more secure method is to clip the socket and wire directly with butt splices or soldered connections. A third option would be using Posilocks and carrying a spare socket that could be quickly wired back into service. The back up methods are really just there for the the paranoids who like the option of falling back on the factory wiring. After 35 years with relays on nearly every one of my bikes I have never had a relay failure so it is of little real concern for the most part. The relays are really a simple job to wire up and once one has the experience they are better equipped to service the system. It is one advantage over buying a factory made system (headlights without relays!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzziownr Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 The brunette is the one with the relays? I see the improvement. DW (headlights without relays!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouiji Veck Posted March 5, 2007 Author Share Posted March 5, 2007 Every thing I see @ eastern beaver or searching this forum shows 3 pin connectors.. otherwise I'd be ordering one from EB... They must have a set up for the 4 pin..what I have.. I'll send an e-mail and give a phone call...Spring is almost HERE!! Thanks to all...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd haven Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 Ouji, The V11 uses the H4 3-prong headlamp bulb. I am confused by your post about 4-prong? Small park light bulb in the lamp is unaltered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouiji Veck Posted March 5, 2007 Author Share Posted March 5, 2007 I've already got an e-mail back from Jim@ E. Beaver.. Were working on it. Mines like this>> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouiji Veck Posted March 5, 2007 Author Share Posted March 5, 2007 Ah...I think I see the error of my thinking... I'm thinking "outside the box" as it were. I'm trying to do this outside the housing...right? Er..I mean "wrong"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.gilmore Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 While waiting (in 50deg temps!!) for my forks I'm moving on to by passing the headlight switch gear with the "relay" set up. I've got the nice color drawing (though my wires are Y/Brn/Grn-gry/BL) my real concern is ...Do I just cut the existing wires "above" the connector and put solder joints and spade connectors on everywhere ...or below the connector or is there a way to utilize the connectors? Just looking for consensus and possible hidden disasters.. Speaking of hidden disasters ...the philips screws holding my alt. cover on had to be locktited in...I snapped the last head off with the impact driver. After a day of vise gripping, drinking, swearing and playing my guitar to her I finally resorted to an 1100deg heat gun...in lieu of the propane torch. WORKED LIKE A CHARM! Is there a start to finish, or a how to on this topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 Ah...I think I see the error of my thinking... I'm thinking "outside the box" as it were. I'm trying to do this outside the housing...right? Er..I mean "wrong"? Yes, the error of your thinking is thinking outside the box. Inside the box is a three prong female H4 connector, the fourth wire that you see on the outside goes to the 4W dipped light. The beaver kit gives you a male H4 connector that attaches to the existing female connector, and a female H4 connector at the other end that connects to the H4 Bulb. You then simply run a ground wire and a wire to battery. Cheaper than the headlight enhancement that brunette had done. Although some, like the Norge, come naturally blessed and need no enhancement to satisfy even the most demanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gh67 Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 I've been putting off this mod for a while...didn't realize kits like this existed...awesome! Are you guys using the standard or heavy duty kit? Anyone tried a 55/100 with sucess (no melting of plastic)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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