gh67

Took the tip-over off years ago and just replaced the entire drain hose with a longer piece....took all of 5 min to route it once the tank was off. Obviously I'm aware and have accepted the fact that fuel could leak out in a crash.

Buell had a handful of 1125R's at the GP race for folks to sit on.....looked even better in person in my opinion. They started one up and it sounded pretty nice as well, though not the typical Buell low rumble. Ergonomics are definitely superbike style....don't think I'd be doing much touring on it. I hope Buell does well with them, it will be nice to have an American superbike (even though it has an Austrian engine).

It's an open loop system vice closed loop....meaning the ECM reads from a pre-written map and does not self correct. ....no 02 sensor in exhaust. Some go by the rule that you are ok to ride (with existing ECM map) if you've only changed either the intake arrangment or exhaust setup...but not both. If I were you, I'd just buy a PCIII and download a free map from this forum or ask around if you can't find a map with your exact setup. That will get you close enough, then you can always dynotune once you finish all your mods.

guys....nothin but love for your enthusiasm....but I somehow think that posts like these are not helping solve Bird Dawg's issue. Maybe we should start a "rant" thread given all the recent forum squabbles

actually, I tried a similar model (as well as a more advanced time-out one....edit:a signal minder) and the front LEDs would not work until I did the idiot light diode mod.

hey Bird. Nog mentioned the idiot light mod earlier.....take a look at this thread, it worked for me. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ignal+indicator Using this diode method I was able to use front LEDs without adding front blinker resistors. I made myself a little circuit board with some radio shack parts and laymans soldering. It worked with old school and electronic flahsers. Good luck. p.s. to others: I use LEDs because I like the way they look on my bike....if I gave a hoot about efficiency I wouldnt be riding a V11.

I've been putting off this mod for a while...didn't realize kits like this existed...awesome! Are you guys using the standard or heavy duty kit? Anyone tried a 55/100 with sucess (no melting of plastic)?

My map is uploaded! Who's next? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...pid=114354&

Tom, I have one that should be pretty close for you. PM me with your email. I would suggest that others go ahead and send you theirs if they have a close match and you can choose the best. Best of luck! ---------- Really wish we could start a PCIII map database in the Fileshare section. There have been a few misc posts like the one below....but the links are now dead. I never had luck with the Dynojet folks....I submitted two custom maps from different bikes and they never posted them. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020 Many people already own a PCIII with a map that works well....but then they make a few mods and could benefit from an updated map that gets them a 90% solution without going back to the dyno for a new custom map. Why not share the wealth between our V11 family? Give me a link and I'll be the first to post mine. Obviously it would be very important to include all the bike mods and setup (TPS voltage, valves, ECM type, Euro or US, etc) at the time of dyno. One could even post the respective dyno chart if they liked. JAAP....any thoughts? cheers, Jason

I've had about 3 different pairs of Panoptx photochromatic glasses over the years, and loved them all. They fit like goggles with a foam backing that prevents any air leaks on my open face helmet (no windshield at 100mph...no problems)....yet they aren't much bigger than normal sunglasses. Have also used them with full-face helmet & clear shield and they still darken normally.....I don't use them in the car (you would a look pretty silly) so can't speak to that. I've always used their dawn/dusk lens....it gets light enough for city night driving. I tried the day/night lens a few years ago but found that it let too much light through (too bright for my sensitive eyes) in some situations. That being said they may have updated them since I last tried them. Only complaint is they do not have a glass lens so you have to watch out not to scratch them. http://www.panoptx.com/html/va_motor.htm Callison - you are probably wearing polarized sunglass which do not work well with most LCD readouts. I had the same probably in airplanes and had to switch to non-polarized.

Garsand, sorry to hear about the pinging issue....it can definitely be an annoying problem. Did the shop check the timing? That would be the first thing I checked given that it pings throughout the power curve. Most of the pinging problems you'll read about on forum occur when we're in the passing lane hitting the throttle...not the cruising around town problem you have. A good Guzzi shop should have the Axeone tool that lets them plug into your ECU and adjust the timing and fuel delivery....or reset it to OEM specs all together if needed. Yes, you could buy a PCIII and get a custom map (which would probably be necessary given the extent of your problems)......but this would only be a bandaide fix to a real problem. As far as I know there is no CA specific ECU....mine is also a CA bike and it is my understanding that all are 50 state bikes. And yes...the fuel here is horrible too....I believe oxygenated all the time. good luck

Cantaloop, great to see your Guzzi running strong. Was hoping you could give some details about the parts that were installed, such as what cam and double ignition setup did you use? What did you have done to your heads....ported, decked? Also, when you say "optimized software", are you referring to adjustments made to the original ECM...such as ignition timing...or are you refering to a Power Commander? cheers

Thought I'd cross-post a little tid bit that I just read in the new Moto Euro. Too bad...and just after those new MG website videos got me all pumped up. http://socal-guzzi.com/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?p=5652#5652

same topic from earlier this month. so far all the questions asked are answered there. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9756

Richard, I'm usually pretty anti-vanity plate (mostly because folks here in CA go over board)....but the Vespa idea is hilarious!

just imagine what your bevel looked like new (or what it should have looked like) before the lepracy. my cases (and it sounds like Tom's as well) now match up almost perfectly to the tranny. I say almost, because I'm sure in direct sunlight and with your eye 6 inches from the cases you could see a minor difference.....but a picture would never catch this. I would be even less concerned about the bevel as it is far enough away from the tranny and engine cases to give you more margin for error without anyone every noticing. if you are wanting a guranteed 100% match, then you should have it painted professionally.

wheel, I had the same problem. Lost about a 4 x 2 inch strip of paint off the front inside (facing the forks). I have heard of others getting their's replaced by Guzzi.....but unless you have a wonderful dealer (MPH, MG, Moto Int, etc) then I would just take care of it myself. Unfortuneatly I had horrible dealer support where I used to live (huge 4-banger shop that carried Guzzis on the side) and ended up taking care of my engine case paint and tank myself. I had my entire bike (tank, rear cowl, cowl seat cover) prepped and painted a custom color for $450. Mine is a satin finish, so no wet sanding....so was much cheaper. My guy is local and just does bikes. If you don't know of anyone, you should stop by a custom chopper shop (seems they are every where these days) and ask them to recommend a local few painters. You could just have them patch the bad spot and blend it in.....but if you have 1 problem....it probably means that there is a deaper pait issue and other areas may start to pop up. If I were you, I'd just have the entire tank re-prepped and painted. good luck

Tom, that's great to hear.....glad my dumb luck process was repeatable. I bet the halogens helped a lot, good idea. Did you paint it on the bike or dissassembled. I did it on the bike and think I spent 5x more time taping off than painting....haha. rossoandy/slowkitty, not sure about Tom, but I only used 1 can. Keep in mind that I didn't completely strip the old paint to bare metal, in which case I would have used more. I used compressed air initially but all that did is break open the rest of the bubbles. Had to get in all the grooves with flat head srewdrivers and rotorary tool wire brushes to smooth it all out....even then it wasnt perfect but the fuzzy paint is pretty forgiving. Now will wait and see if it lasts more than a few riding seasons. Would be pretty ironic if my home amature rattle can job lasts longer than Guzzi's effort. jason

Hey Tom, I've used the Harley paint with excellent results. Make sure you are using the Texture Black (98606BF), I think they also make a Wrinkle Finish paint but that's not going to give you the proper finish. The key with this paint is to apply many light dusting layers from at least a foot away. To much at once and you will lose the texture and get just a flat black. I probably did 10 light dusting layers and waited 15 minutes between each layer application. The final result matches up to the tranny paint almost perfectly. good luck jason

I 2nd that! Though the book would have to retain Pete's unique style and humor. Heck, we should just add a new forum category and consolidate Dr. Roper's "preachings" so they are easy to find. Keep 'em up coming Pete. Thanks! Jason

Greg, in the past I've used some testers model paint (sorry, don't have the number) with a fine brush and it was close enough for small chips. Though I think next time I will try out (using the ole spray into the cap technique) one of Duplicolor's Metalcasts anodized colors.....they have an orange and a yellow. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html

I do the same if its been sitting for a few weeks or more. I'll cycle the fuel pump a few times until I hear it "burp" the last bit of extra air out. Usually starts right up after that.

From a business perspective I have to give her credit for thinking of this and getting prissy yuppies to buy bug juice and call it art. Though from my perspective it is stupid to the point of being hilarious.

PShenk, those are great looking levers, let us know how it works out. I'd like to get their shift lever to match the billet brake one I got from MPH a few years ago.

wow...Ted Drews....I haven't heard that name in a while....awesome place. The Italian section is called "the Hill" .....I bet your restaurant is on this list. http://www.diningstl.com/TheHill.htm JRT, I'm from MO originally so give a shout if you want any info. cheers