raz Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 I think if you up the bulb to a higher wattage, the greatest potential failure point is the socket melting, and maybe the wiring around it. The most expensive potential failure with high wattage bulbs is a ruined reflector since it may not put up with the heat. Or so I heard. What I do know is that a high wattage bulb will give worse light if used without fixing wiring/relays. It's pretty simple mathematics. So my plan was to buy a not-the-cheapiest bulb - yet standard 60/55W (I happened to find a Philips Night Vision but I reckon any of the larger brands' top of the line bulbs will do) and fix wiring and relays. I'm sure it will be an order of magnitude better than before. Finished it last weekend though I haven't tested it because my ignition lock/switch is away along with the upper triple clamp for some work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Dennis, The relay socket #75292 is the one for Bosch 4 and/or 5 pin MICRO relay. If you want a socket with mounting ears you may opt for the #75290 socket instead. You will need 2each #31073 (1/4 inch push on terminals) and 330074 (3/16 inch push on terminals) per relay. The latter are temporarlily out of stock but due in any day. The terminals are best installed with a ratcheting crimping tool with the proper dies. Bear in mind these are DOUBLE crimped. The first crimp is the metal to metal crimp to the conductor, the second is the "seal" which grips the insulation. I like to add a bit of solder to help seal the dissimilar metals and improve long term conductivity and mechanical integrity. May seem like a lot of bother but it actually goes quickly and the results are well worthwhile. I had a few of the packs that were made up by a fellow at work. They were not used and got tossed out. Sorry to say I just gave away the last of them and am "fresh out" otherwise I would send ya one. If you would like to PM me I can lend you the crimpers and send you some terminals . All I ask is a prompt return of the crimpers. I might even locate a copy of the General Motors specs for wire crimping to send along. Excellent logic, Raz. The relay converted standard light with a quality 55/60 Watt buld is a great performer. The "Sylvania Silver Star" is actually made by Osram I believe and is the same as Phillips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike wilson Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 I might even locate a copy of the General Motors specs for wire crimping to send along. I'd like to see that, if you can publish it online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Just a quick note WRT soldering a crimp connection... If you decide to solder as well as crimp, be sure NOT to solder (tin the wire) before crimping! Also be careful not to use too much solder. If it wicks down the wire, the wire will break where the solder stops, likely at a most inopertune time. Rj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhansen Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Dennis, The relay socket #75292 is the one for Bosch 4 and/or 5 pin MICRO relay. If you want a socket with mounting ears you may opt for the #75290 socket instead. You will need 2each #31073 (1/4 inch push on terminals) and 330074 (3/16 inch push on terminals) per relay. If you would like to PM me I can lend you the crimpers and send you some terminals . All I ask is a prompt return of the crimpers. I might even locate a copy of the General Motors specs for wire crimping to send along. Thanks Gary. I have access here to a nice ratcheting crimper but I'll have to see if I can identify the dies in it. If that proves to be a problem, I'll give you a shout. Dennis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Sure enuff. The other stuff too. I have a few of the terminals on hand if Waytek's supply is back ordered. The 75292 socket is acually intended for PC board mounting and is not a real good choice for this application. Better to stick with the 75290 and use the crimp on terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 I'd like to see that, if you can publish it online. Not sure how guarded they are about that. Maybe I could re-draw and post. Not like it is any top secret or anything but in these times you need to watch yer backside. Stay tuned I'll post a "version" of the listed practice. After all it is a GM spec that they provide to vendors And , yes to what 'goozer sez. The idea of the solder is to seal up the metal to metal joint. A minimum of solder will do. Any more will negate the effectiveness of the strain relief second crimp. These are different connectors than the simple Amp or STAK-ON barrel type. You actually fold the connector into the wire during the crimping action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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