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clamp on oil filter


scottybee

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I know this info is probably on the forum somewhere but I havent been able to find it. So I hope you don't mind me asking. I've seen some pics on here of oil filters with a hose clamp around them. Do I really need to do this? Why? Is there a specific spot the clamp should be placed. I have poured over as many of the old post's about oil filters (there's a ton) as my very short attention span will allow. I need to do my first oil change on my LeMans. I bought the walmart filter and I'm hoping to be able to do the change without removing the pan. I know I should be able to reuse the pan gasket, but I don't want to remove the pan withiut at least having a gasket on hand just in case.

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I know this info is probably on the forum somewhere but I havent been able to find it. So I hope you don't mind me asking. I've seen some pics on here of oil filters with a hose clamp around them. Do I really need to do this? Why? Is there a specific spot the clamp should be placed. I have poured over as many of the old post's about oil filters (there's a ton) as my very short attention span will allow. I need to do my first oil change on my LeMans. I bought the walmart filter and I'm hoping to be able to do the change without removing the pan. I know I should be able to reuse the pan gasket, but I don't want to remove the pan withiut at least having a gasket on hand just in case.

 

Don' do it!!!!

 

The clamp will fail everytime, spewing schrapnel fatally throughout your engine. Rally. I read it here.

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Don' do it!!!!

 

The clamp will fail everytime, spewing schrapnel fatally throughout your engine. Rally. I read it here.

Clamp on! Clamp off! The Clamper®

Greg patented The Clamper and sells them on eBay for only $20

Apparently the greed and corruption finally got to him and he saw the light :bier:

But seriously, most of us here are grateful for Greg bringing to light the too common problem of filters coming lose.

Opinions are all over the place on this matter.

Some believe that their tightening jobs are perfectly fine and will never come loose.

 

Some believe they MIGHT come loose, so they resort to options such as:

 

Greg's unpatented, freely shared idea of putting a hose clamp on the filter

 

A spacer between filter and trap door to prevent the filter from coming loose.

 

Choosing a filter with a design that is less likely to unscrew, while paying attention to tightening it well.

 

Some go by the torque it well enough method and some by the number of recommended turns.

 

The important thing is to beware that the filters are more prone to coming off than typical external filters and you won't see the leak the way you might with an external filter.

How you deal with it, is up to you.

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Thank you Gentlemen.

Would it be correct to think that even if the filter does loosen this would only allow a little unfiltered oil to possibly enter the engine, not actually lose any oil?

Ummmm, no. You lose pressure and flow. Disaster soon to follow.

 

Drop the pan and use a high quality clamp. It really isn't a big deal.

 

PICT0006-5.jpg

 

Try using the SEARCH feature in the forum. Much less attention required. Take the time to read the posts on filter types and tightening techniques. Lots of swarf talk to cut through but you'll be better informed when you get under the bike to drop that pan.

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With the WalMart filter it is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE THAT YOU REMOVE THE LABEL!!!! The label will come off, even if the filter doesn't loosen. You don't want it floating down into the pickup tube area.

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I know this info is probably on the forum somewhere but I havent been able to find it. So I hope you don't mind me asking. I've seen some pics on here of oil filters with a hose clamp around them. Do I really need to do this? Why? Is there a specific spot the clamp should be placed. I have poured over as many of the old post's about oil filters (there's a ton) as my very short attention span will allow. I need to do my first oil change on my LeMans. I bought the walmart filter and I'm hoping to be able to do the change without removing the pan. I know I should be able to reuse the pan gasket, but I don't want to remove the pan withiut at least having a gasket on hand just in case.

 

As much money as you have in your bike you decide to go the cheap roite and use a Wal Mart filter??

I can't understand the logic in that?

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With the WalMart filter it is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE THAT YOU REMOVE THE LABEL!!!! The label will come off, even if the filter doesn't loosen. You don't want it floating down into the pickup tube area.

 

 

Oh Bugger! bought six back from Utah. Just fitted the Roper sheet and a new Purolator 2 hours ago

 

Sump off in the morning then.

 

Heh Hoh :bbblll:

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Guest ratchethack

As much money as you have in your bike you decide to go the cheap roite and use a Wal Mart filter??

I can't understand the logic in that?

Dean, if you believe that "You get wot you pay for!" is a hard & fast, unbreakable rule of the marketplace, and that price is always a valid, direct measure of quality -- even for high volume, mass produced "commodity" items, then of course it wouldn't seem logical.

 

In this case, I've got a standing offer for my own "value added" filters (*see below) at $100 USD per copy -- don't forget the deep volume discount structure, and yes, we take PayPal. ;) By the logic above, these should be the VERY BEST MONEY CAN BUY. Now if you can provide proof of a higher price elsewhere, I'll either meet it or beat it EVERY TIME! ;)

 

There are some who actually evaluate such items on quality and performance alone, regardless of price. -_-

 

If you actually identify and evaluate the criteria that are actually important to the performance of the filter and the protection of your motor, and match those criteria up (and are able to ignore those tested parameters that may be entirely irrelevant), a low price, good quality (far higher than adequate) filter with a track record of high reliability backed by credible testing can make sense to many, myself included (see previous posts on the topic).

 

Then, if you're willing to accept that commodity items such as filters can benefit from economies of scale , whereby a mfgr shipping (for example) 10K filters per day vs. a competitor shipping 10K filters per month can actually deliver superior quality at a lower price, AND you're actually willing to consider credible, independent filter testing that actually looks at performance of filters and compares competitive products, it may be quite logical indeed. ;)

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV, but IMHO it could cost you, possibly in more ways than one. :whistle:

 

* The Cdr. Hatchracket VALUE ADD: I will personally remove the sticker of a ST3614 WallyWorld filter, and ship to your door (shipping's on you), along with a copy of a signed certificate of authenticity by a real dyno Technician that says that my filters make your Guzzi GO FASTER. Order today and avoid the summer rush! ;)

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In this case, I've got a standing offer for my own "value added" filters (*see below) for $100 USD per copy -- don't forget the deep volume discount structure, and yes, we take PayPal. ;) These should be the VERY BEST MONEY CAN BUY by the above logic. If you can provide proof of a higher price elsewhere, I'll either meet it or beat it EVERY TIME! ;)

 

* The Cdr. Hatchetrack VALUE ADD: I will personally remove the sticker of a ST3614 WallyWorld filter, and ship to your door, along with a copy of a signed certificate of authenticity by a real dyno Technician that says that my filters make your Guzzi GO FASTER . Order today and avoid the summer rush! ;)

 

This sounds like a super deal for such quality. How much for the high quality, fully adjustable, stainless steel hose clamp that is required for proper installation?

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Guest ratchethack

This sounds like a super deal for such quality. How much for the high quality, fully adjustable, stainless steel hose clamp that is required for proper installation?

If Hatchracket Enterprises receives your order today , I'll personally extend you our Good Guzzi Guy Quantity 1 Discount for the Filter Clamp (retail price $100 USD), which entitles you to 15% off! That's $85 USD to you, (shipping not included), not forgetting of course the usual Hatchracket VALUE ADD - price sticker carefully removed by hand, courtesy of Yours Truly. -_-:lol:

 

NOTE: Hatchracket Enterprises doesn't "officially" endorse the use of clamps on our filters. But we figure if you're buying our Value Added filters, you're pretty much obligated by wotever drove you to do this to go another "Benjamin" f'er the clamp. And who're WE to argue with THAT kinda logic? :huh2::grin:

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As much money as you have in your bike you decide to go the cheap roite and use a Wal Mart filter??

I can't understand the logic in that?

 

 

Well Dean I'm really not trying to simply use the cheapest filter. I'm jsut going by what I've read on this forum. I guess my real motive for the wallyworld filter is availability. If there is another readily available brand at even twice or 3 times the price, that eliminates this decision on clamp or no clamp. Somebody just tell me and I'll buy it. I'm all about keeping things simple and easy , not just cheap.

With my other bike (97 Honda Valkyrie Tourer) I happen to work at the factory where that bike was built and Goldwings and VTX's are still built. I just go over to our service center and grab the filter and oil. No decisions no controversy and no problems so far in the 60'000+ miles on that bike.

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If there is another readily available brand at even twice or 3 times the price, that eliminates this decision on clamp or no clamp. Somebody just tell me and I'll buy it. I'm all about keeping things simple and easy , not just cheap.

 

 

Unfortunately there is no concensus about what to buy and clamp or not clamp.

Gary Cheek is confident with no clamp on MobilOne filters.

 

Ryland recommends, and I agree,

Purolator L10241

If well tightened, no need for clamp.

Ryland said it seemed to torque confidently at 1-1/8 turns.

 

Others appear happy with the SuperTech simply tightened to 3/4 turn.

 

And still others are happy with the UFI, which I would not use without a clamp.

 

Some say to tighten the number of recommended turns, and some say a little more.

 

Some say to tighten till it feels right.

 

I say go with atleast the recommended number of turns, but make sure you are also getting enough foot/pounds of torque. I am not sure what that is. From what I have read, that may be between about 10 and 20 foot/pounds.

But too tight and the rubber gasket may be compromised.

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This sounds like a super deal for such quality. How much for the high quality, fully adjustable, stainless steel hose clamp that is required for proper installation?

If you get it, you'll need one of my super expensive but highly superior screwdrivers to tighten the thing to best adjustment. Why not buy two, incase the first one breaks? Shipping to USA is suitably costly. I can even hand-deliver.

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