Guzzi2Go Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 ... The WTS05 inserts about 27mm while the WTS09 inserts about 22.5mm. What is ours? The "long one" is ours. WTS05. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Errr.............. As I stated in the previous message, that was posted to the COG list - the Centauro and Daytona use the PF09 NOT the PF3C. GJ Errr......Thanks. Yah, I read what was stated in the previous message. But what is interchangeable remains unclear. Although Guzzi2Go's post cleared up the temperature sensor number, and dashed away hopes that there would be a temerature sensor that properly fit the sensor housing. Thanks Guzzi2Go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Welcome, welcome! BTW, the source of information is the workshop manual, available on: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_...11_en_de_ne.pdf (Section P, page 5 - or page 379 of the document in question) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gio Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Based on 3 fill-ups (20.9 l in 283.9km), around-town fuel-consumption has improved from 12.5 to 13.6 km per litre (35.4 to 38.4 mpg) or an increase of 8.8% - not as much as I had hoped for but I'll take it. Bike runs great - some evidence of running leaner (a little cough and splutter after decelerating from speed to tick-over eg at lights) and hope to fix that at next tune-up. Plugs look fine. Gio Update - In cooler weather (5 to 10c ambient) I have experienced some popping/spluttering at low engine speed. Removing the Copaslip from the gap between sensor and holder (ie restoring the original "air gap" seems to have cured this. I'm speculating that with the Copaslip sensor was reading hotter than intended and removing it causes the engine to run richer/better ..? Gio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Update - In cooler weather (5 to 10c ambient) I have experienced some popping/spluttering at low engine speed. Removing the Copaslip from the gap between sensor and holder (ie restoring the original "air gap" seems to have cured this. I'm speculating that with the Copaslip sensor was reading hotter than intended and removing it causes the engine to run richer/better ..? Gio Maybe so. The original fitting on my bike was copper where it screwed into the cylinder, but plastic for the sensor holder. This construction indicates an attempt to get good thermal conduction to the cylinder, while insulating from the cooler air around it. It makes sense that the cooler the sensor is, the richer the ECU would go to compensate. Are you still using the original fitting, or the brass replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 I recently added some silver conductive goop and have noticed no change in MPG or drivability. Maybe I need to add more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.gilmore Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Changed to brass replacement with a dab of copper-coat, and temp has gone from 70c to 90c @ 100kmph.on a 25 to30 deg c day,Fully warmed up @ the lights @ idle,seeing changes from 75 to 115 deg c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gio Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Maybe so. The original fitting on my bike was copper where it screwed into the cylinder, but plastic for the sensor holder. This construction indicates an attempt to get good thermal conduction to the cylinder, while insulating from the cooler air around it. It makes sense that the cooler the sensor is, the richer the ECU would go to compensate. Are you still using the original fitting, or the brass replacement? Brass replacement. Original fitting disintegrated upon removal. Gio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.gilmore Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Brass replacement. Original fitting disintegrated upon removal. Gio I think they all disintegrate, mine did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Changed to brass replacement with a dab of copper-coat, and temp has gone from 70c to 90c @ 100kmph.on a 25 to30 deg c day,Fully warmed up @ the lights @ idle,seeing changes from 75 to 115 deg c. That's a substantial difference. I'm glad to hear that. In my opinion, the ECU should have the most consistent reading of cylinder temperature possible and any problems with mixture should be dealt with in the mapping. How did you measure the temperature? I have the brass insert as well, with copper anti seize paste inside. The brass insert I received had several machined grooves in it. It looked like it was intended to increase heat transfer to the air. Since that is exactly the opposite of my plan, I first wrapped it with aluminum foil tape. It's the kind used on flue pipe ducting for furnaces. Pretty neat stuff, and it looks good, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.gilmore Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 That's a substantial difference. I'm glad to hear that. In my opinion, the ECU should have the most consistent reading of cylinder temperature possible and any problems with mixture should be dealt with in the mapping. How did you measure the temperature? I have the brass insert as well, with copper anti seize paste inside. The brass insert I received had several machined grooves in it. It looked like it was intended to increase heat transfer to the air. Since that is exactly the opposite of my plan, I first wrapped it with aluminum foil tape. It's the kind used on flue pipe ducting for furnaces. Pretty neat stuff, and it looks good, too. Yes, mine has the grooves in it also,they are little fin's, I would not cover them up,Ask Pete R why as he will explain better than I can. I can read my temp through Cliff's optimiser @ any time I like,you can check everything on that unit.Worth it's weight in gold. I run closed loop so it did'nt realy make a difference when I changed to the new brass unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Yes, mine has the grooves in it also,they are little fin's, I would not cover them up,Ask Pete R why as he will explain better than I can.I can read my temp through Cliff's optimiser @ any time I like,you can check everything on that unit.Worth it's weight in gold. I run closed loop so it did'nt realy make a difference when I changed to the new brass unit. Sounds neat. Where can I get one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.gilmore Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Sounds neat. Where can I get one? Click the guy on page 2 post 22 of this thread.his name is Cliff. http://www.jefferies-au.org/MyECU/tuning.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 Click the guy on page 2 post 22 of this thread.his name is Cliff.http://www.jefferies-au.org/MyECU/tuning.htm Thanks, Mark. I corresponded with Cliff. I'm not prepared to buy the replacement ECU in order to use the Optimizer. It runs well into the $hundreds. I do appreciate the lead, though. Maybe I'll go for it later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 The alternative is to remap the ECU from the following http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/8966/tb...ginetempur5.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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