Guest choldy Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 Hi all, I've just finished run in on my V11, all of the initial servicing now out of the way. When I had the first service completed I told my dealer about a problem I had. The bike does not seem to want to run over on the choke from cold without a little help on the throttle to start (turns over first time every time though!). Also if I have been on the throttle for a while intermittantly when I let the throttle off to closed the engine dies on me, when I come onto a junction for example. The bike is running really well and this only happens intermittently, anyone else suffered from this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 Yep, this is a common problem on new bikes.... and in it's most basic form, it's a function of the engine still being quite tight. Although your official "break" or "run" -in has been achieved, these bikes really only loosen up after 5-12k miles(depending on who you ask). Now, there also can be some contributory issues if the bike isn't running well in general such as the TPS being a bit off, or the TBs being out of synch, etc... but these can and should be addressed first. However, in the interim there are some things one can do if everything else is in order. First, I have personally found that having the valves set to a looser RaceCo spec generally cures the problem. Over time, as the engine continues to loosen, one can tighten the valves back up to the factory spec... or not... it doesn't really impact performance, not for street applications anyway. The only real difference is that the valve-train is a bit more noisy, and in fact that's why especially in the USA the valves from the factory are quite tight... to reduce noise. However, early in the engine's life, at idle, these tight specs(especially after the engine is good and heated from a "high rpm" run) make the engine have trouble maintaining a smooth idle or even running at idle at all. Another option is to bump up the idle RPM a bit. And one can also richen the fuel mixture a bit. The easiest way to play with this is to get a Power Commander. But for me, the "cure" was the valve adjust. At least so far Hope that helps. al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest choldy Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 Thanks Al, Obviously nothing to worry about unduly then. I'll have a go at checking the valves at some point, I assume Raceco have a website with the valve specs on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murray Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 0.008" inch or .20mm what they used to recommend before the niose emission people got to them. For both inlet and exhaust. Used these values across two well used 1100sports with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 Thanks Al, Obviously nothing to worry about unduly then. I'll have a go at checking the valves at some point, I assume Raceco have a website with the valve specs on? ..sure, here ya go Raceco tappet clearances for Moto Guzzi two and four valve engines Two valve engines Tappet clearances for the Guzzi big twins should be set to 0.20mm for the inlet and 0.25mm for the exhaust. This also applies to the "modern" Guzzis such as the Sport 1100, Cali 1100i and V11. The factory settings for these bikes are 0.10mm and 0.15mm respectively, but this is to try and reduce engine noise to meet US emissions regulations. With tappets set this tight the engines have trouble ticking over and running cleanly at low revs. When I read the last sentence of this comment, my first reaction was: "...you don't say? " Hope that helps! al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emry Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 The Raceco valve specs solved my idle stalling. Plus I like the extra noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 Plus I like the extra noise ...agreed! If I hadn't heard so many differing opinions on the reliability of cam gears, I'd get them too... just for the whine It'll be interesting to hear/watch Jason's experience. al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichMaund Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 I have to agree with Al. Good advice there! 10K miles on mine seemed to solve all break-in related problems. The PCIII removed the few driveability problems that good tuning and miles didn't solve. My bike is soon to turn over 12K miles and it runs way better now than when new! Just about flawless now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jeff Kelland Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 All of the above is exactly my experience as well except for the valve adjustment which I will do as I've just past 6000 miles. It didn't really start to run well until it had about 3500 miles on it and started to loosen up. A power commander helps with pinging and low speed running. At first I would keep the engine up around 3500 to ride around this but with the PC I've found I tend to let it come down to around 3000 when cruising. I'm encouraged to think that more mileage will result in even better running. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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