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injector linkage


Jap In OZ

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G'day,

 

looking for a part number for the linkage between the two throttle bodies, mine has excessive play for some weird reason :huh:

 

Checked out the workshop manual/part catalogue cd but can't find it there! whats' going on there?

 

Ciao

 

Jasper

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G'day,

 

looking for a part number for the linkage between the two throttle bodies, mine has excessive play for some weird reason :huh:

 

Checked out the workshop manual/part catalogue cd but can't find it there! whats' going on there?

 

Ciao

 

Jasper

Yes it seems the only thing listed is a complete TB assembly, at about the price of a complete used bike from eBay :o . My guess is you'll have much quicker and cheaper results replacing it with some non-OEM stuff. Where is the problem, the ball joint? Shouldn't be a major problem to find something similar.

 

On the other hand, some play shouldn't matter much as long as there is tension. Is your RH idle screw backed out?

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Thanks!

 

Yeah the baljoint has excessive play which I like to sort. I thought I'll just see how much the OEM replacement would be and than make a decission on a solution. I'll propbably replace the balljoint bit with something from a local shop.

 

Cheers

 

Jasper

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Guest frankdugo

hey jasper,dont know if this will help-v11 le mans '2002'-catalouge code:01 92 00 90-.drawing 7 throtle assy.-inlet ducts. #4 upper crosspiece code# 01 11 05 30.this is what my parts catalouge shows. ciao frank

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hey jasper,dont know if this will help-v11 le mans '2002'-catalouge code:01 92 00 90-.drawing 7 throtle assy.-inlet ducts. #4 upper crosspiece code# 01 11 05 30.this is what my parts catalouge shows. ciao frank

That is great, is there part numbers for o-rings and stuff for TB's too?

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This is the horrible 'plastic' ball joint and the original is riveted to the plate attached to the injector. I assume that to replace it with a threaded item you would need to drill out the old one from ther plate and bolt the replacement to it?

 

Phil

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It shouldn't be impossible to find a replacement for just the plastic half of it and leave tha ball as is. Still, I can't see how a little play would hurt as long as you don't use the RH idle screw. And as long as it doesn't separate on its' own :P

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Jasper, you don't need one of this, do you?

 

That's excactly what i need.. Thyanks!

 

It shouldn't be impossible to find a replacement for just the plastic half of it and leave tha ball as is. Still, I can't see how a little play would hurt as long as you don't use the RH idle screw. And as long as it doesn't separate on its' own :P

 

It seperated on it's own.... so replacement is due! I think i'll go and source the plastic bit in metal might be easier than trying to order the original part from MG

 

Cheers

Jasper

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  • 2 weeks later...
It shouldn't be impossible to find a replacement for just the plastic half of it and leave tha ball as is. Still, I can't see how a little play would hurt as long as you don't use the RH idle screw. And as long as it doesn't separate on its' own :P

 

Yes, using only the left idle screw will keep the connecting rod in tension at idle and above, to eliminate backlash, and there's less chance of it coming loose. In a pinch, if there's a risk of the rod falling away until you can get a replacement, a little epoxy could be used to "rebuild" it.

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The Centauro forum part list says you can use a socket from some unspecified Volvo (plastic ones wont fit but metal one will) as well as "Mercedes throttle rod end, p/n 000 991 88 22"

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  • 2 years later...

My joint is due now too. It doesn't self-separate but the idle TPS varies depending on how it settles. I found the Volvo p/n too (not certain yet it's the correct part but it should be): 959088

 

volvo_959088.jpg

Here you can see how you can separate it and use the existing ball. I'll report when I can confirm p/n.

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