docc Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 ... just wondered: any of you guys who knows the drill of changing the serpentine belt on a 4,6 Rover V8? The answers should range from innocent suggestions to links tied to the history of the conflict in the Middle East. This is easy, really: Unbolt the license plate and back a J**P Cherokee up to it . . . At least here in the States there is a raucous rivalry between the well-healed Rover owners (JEEP recovery vehicles) and the Jeepsters who pride themselves on maintaining their vehicles with parts scrounged from nearby ditches and streams. I do love my Cherokee; it is reliable, simple and as luxurious as a galvanized bucket. It even has *pushrods*, making it a strange bedfellow for the Guzzi Sport. Curious, though, that Guzzis are largely exempt from bike rivalries. Many of the true HD bikers know them from back in the day, and their handling and specification endears them to the sportbike crowd. I've had mine called a "work of art" and enjoyed its rarity and honest lineage. It has been a bit awkward, at times, to explain that, "No, it really isn't a 'crotch rocket'." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdude Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 I can enlighten you with the fact that most parts for my Range Rover are definitely scoured from ditches and streams since I have to order them from England. And we are probably not so much talking molyadditives as MOLEadditives.... sorry bad joke, and out of topic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 There's a topic?? Oh, yes, I voted for Guzzi Final Drive Oil with the moly mixed in for the first many miles. When it became less available, I tried to source it from the supplier, but no good (I forget now who was makig it for gUZZI). I did mix my own, like a bomb in the basement, from left over gear oils of all sorts and Cal-gard moly additive. It was a scary looking mess, but I always reassured myself that it's lubricity was at least equal to Aussie Yak FAt. I'm a RLSP Heavy devotee now. Still using lightweight in the gearbox (cause I like the color). 100,000 Km on the old girl now and running better than ever! Ride well, docc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savagehenry Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Curious, though, that Guzzis are largely exempt from bike rivalries. Many of the true HD bikers know them from back in the day, and their handling and specification endears them to the sportbike crowd. I've had mine called a "work of art" and enjoyed its rarity and honest lineage. It has been a bit awkward, at times, to explain that, "No, it really isn't a 'crotch rocket'." This summer I stopped for a burger and a few "road-pops". A HD rider arrived to meet a group of other HD bagger riders. One of them says,"Did you bring your new bike?" His reply, "Yeah, it's parked out next to that piece of JAP CRAP..." Mine was the only Non-Harley in the lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 This summer I stopped for a burger and a few "road-pops". A HD rider arrived to meet a group of other HD bagger riders. One of them says,"Did you bring your new bike?" His reply,"Yeah, it's parked out next to that piece of JAP CRAP..." Mine was the only Non-Harley in the lot! Mindless GROUPTHINK is reaching epidemic proportions these days. It's a highly communicable variety of cultural rectal carcinoma. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug m Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 hey Docc, 100K on the old girl. How have the shaft drive components held up? Replaced anything and at what mileage? I know guzzi suggests replacing driveshaft at 20 K, but I imagine they will hang in there longer. regards, Doug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALdad Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 I know guzzi suggests replacing driveshaft at 20 K What!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 . . .I know guzzi suggests replacing driveshaft at 20 K. . . What!! Some of the earlier Tonti (or was it the Loopers?) enclosed drives had this replacement spec. (IIRC), but I'm a more'n a little fuzzy on which models. There is no replacement spec. for the driveshaft on the V11. Lube UJ's and shaft splines every 12K miles (20 km) or 2 yrs., whichever comes first, according to the Guzzi Service Manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 From the gearbox back ( and the gearbox forward) I've had no driveline issues whatsoever. I had an early 6speed which I kept telling Guzzi, "It doesn't shift right" and 'It's getting worse' and so on until they replaced my gearbox (80 emails and bless my dealer: Ben Curlin of Jackson, TN). The Great Gearbox Recall of the early V11 followed. I try to keep the shaft lubed, but I'm pretty sure I've only ever got the grease gun on the front zerk once. I say this because the force to remove the grease gun took enough flesh off my hand I can still feel it. I've done two or three wheel bearings and tried to keep the outer needle cage greased up every other tire change. (My rear tires go maybe 4000 miles; hard on women and downrange targets as well). I keep looking at other bikes. Especially the Adventure-Tour variety. The new Stelvio in TT trim looks enticing, but heavy. Triumph has much to offer these days. Yet the Sport continues to carry me ever onward. And (to paraphrase another member), like my Italian wife, she stabs me now and then for no reason at all . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macguzzi Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 This is what your looking for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug m Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 This is what your looking for Talk about lubing the driveshaft!! I get the old Lady to do the front zerk fitting! Actually, i used the good advice on this site and heated up the grease gun nozzle end (about 5 inch shaft , plus tip) (insert joke here!), and bent it to about 55 degrees, and then ground the tip down. Works like a charm! It was kind of a bitch to get off, but being a carpenter--I cut a small block of wood to fit under the bend and then it levered off pretty easy. I tried the needle nozzle suggestion first, but found that pretty vague at best, couldn't tell if any was going in, or just mucking up the outside. Iplan on greasing everything,as well as repack all the bearings, whenever i have the wheel off for a tire change. Keep up the good work guys, and may all your driveshafts get lubed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALdad Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 I keep looking at other bikes. Especially the Adventure-Tour variety. The new Stelvio in TT trim looks enticing, but heavy. Triumph has much to offer these days. Yet the Sport continues to carry me ever onward. And (to paraphrase another member), like my Italian wife, she stabs me now and then for no reason at all . . . Ever since I finished my sport(well It will probably never really be done, until it's done).I never stop thinking about my next bike. But I keep coming back to the reality that this is the perfect bike for me. I look around and cannot think of any thing I would rather be scootin down the road on. I live on this thing. Commuting every day rain or shine the past two years. With a custom seat ,parabellum fairing and standard handelbars( rubber mounted , rubber core(bar snake) and heavy barends), this is one really freekin sweet ride. It has also been very dependable. Replaced one rear wheel bearing, simple tune ups thanx to this site, all is good 24k mi. I don't have any problem with the forward zerk. I give it a squirt with each tire change. I use a small gun and a rotating McMaster Carr fitting that was recomended on this site . It does take a good yank to get it off but my knuckles still have complete skin coverage. Did I mention I have yet to see one on the road like mine. Yea, I dig my green goose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savagehenry Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavo Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Ok, I know oil and lubes have been covered exenstively in this forum, but I have to put this question out there anyway. Some of you know from recent posts that I am reworking a Rosso Mandello V11 which I acquired in January. I have got to the Changing of The Rear Drive and Transmission Lube part. Here is what I think I know. * The manual calls for 80w90 PODO (plain old dinosaur oil). * The manual calls for a quantity of Moly additive to be included. * Some in this forum (and others) have recommended a more modern synthetic oil, which makes sense to me. * I have the moly additive on my shelf ready to go. * Some others (Dave Richards of Guzziology) have reported of hearing of people who claim to know people that have heard from synthetic oil reps that the moly additive will seperate from some of the synthetic products. Whats a fellow to do? PODO or modern synthetic oil? Additive or not? Will Marsha find out John cheated on her in Manila? What do you Guzziologists do? (about Rear Drive Lube - not Marsha) By the way - I drained both of these yesterday. The both have magnetic plugs. Both of the plugs have a three day beard growth of metal filings stuck to the magnets. Imagine that, filings stuck to the magnets. Is that something to be concerned about? By the by the way - The rear lube I drained from the drive definitly had a moly additive judging from the color. Either that or it has never been changed and was used to start with! Scott Hi,I use Penrite hypoid80w90(as recommened) bought in 2.5 ltr bottles into which I add 1 tube of molybdenum disulfide, shaken not stirred and use as required in both gearbox and diff . The key words are as recommened by motorguzzi and if deviating from this, motoguzzi and your dealer has a legal loophole on warranty claims.As for the more expensive oils, do they supply enough benefit to justify the sometime very high price, only time will tell. p.s. 2 friends who have guzzi's that I ride with often both use hypoid80w90 with no moly added their bikes have covered 141000kms and 165000kms with no diff problems .I think the key is regular changing. p.p.s. sorry about highjacking this thread before but sometimes statements need to be addressed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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