raceboy Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Well race fans, it's been six weeks of V11 blissful ownership and the problems keep on coming. From the first ride I knew the suspension was not set up correctly...not even close. The bike also needed new tires, so my thinking was don't worry about the suspension just ride and enjoy do the suspension set-up when I get new tires on the bike. Well this past Saturday I mounted tires (Metzlers M1) and proceeded to attempt suspension set up.............Much to my dismay the rear shock is SHOT, GONE, DONE-FOR, NIX, DEEP-SIX IT!! Leaking fluid, the adjustments have no effect. Now I understand why the bike rides the way it does. So. What options do I have????? Rebuild stock shock........Who can do rebuilds??? It is not an Ohlins shock. Can I buy an Ohlins shock??? Next problem. The clutch has started to act funny when the bike gets warmed up, about 20 min riding. The clutch begins to be very Grabby making shifting clunky (especially at stop lights), the clutch does not fully disengage, as soon as the clutch lever is just slightly released the clutch is almost fully engaged. Any thoughts or ideas. I will flush out the old brake fluid and put in new Dot 4. Sorry for the wordiness of this post. Not much riding time left, I'm looking forward to being able to carve a few corners before the snow flies. Cheers folks, Raceboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan M Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Wilbers 641 on that rear shock. Several here including myself feel that it transforms the bike. Also the factory springs in the Marz forks are quite weak. If you are anything over about 150 lbs you may want to consider respringing too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raceboy Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 Wilbers 641 on that rear shock. Several here including myself feel that it transforms the bike. Also the factory springs in the Marz forks are quite weak. If you are anything over about 150 lbs you may want to consider respringing too. Thanks Where can I buy the Wilbers shock?? I'm about 165lbs, I think the front is ok, of course I'll know better once I have a working rear damper on the bike. Raceboy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Sounds like a clutch flush might be needed. Get a pint of mineral spirits. I'm out of time but will try to write up the procedure later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest danhunt56 Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 As for the grabby clutch. I could find no info on adjusting the clutch and for years I just lived with a bike that grabbed right off the bar. One day I noticed a screw on the clutch handle that appears to be what pushes on the master cylinder piston. screwing it in starts the actuating of the clutch sooner thus releasing latter, if that makes sense. At any rate my clutch engages and disengages right where I like and I no longer have to keep the thing clamped to the bar while idling nor do I have to feather it off the bar with the same degree of care and consciousness I use to. And it might even shift better... I don't know if that makes sense, just look and see if your clutch handle has this screw and screw it in and see what happens. Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raceboy Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 As for the grabby clutch. I could find no info on adjusting the clutch and for years I just lived with a bike that grabbed right off the bar. One day I noticed a screw on the clutch handle that appears to be what pushes on the master cylinder piston. screwing it in starts the actuating of the clutch sooner thus releasing latter, if that makes sense. At any rate my clutch engages and disengages right where I like and I no longer have to keep the thing clamped to the bar while idling nor do I have to feather it off the bar with the same degree of care and consciousness I use to. And it might even shift better... I don't know if that makes sense, just look and see if your clutch handle has this screw and screw it in and see what happens. Daniel Daniel Thanks, I'm getting ready for a ride so I'll have a quick look. I'll bring a tool with me if I have the adjuster screw on my bike. I will report later the results Cheers, John (Raceboy) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raceboy Posted August 13, 2008 Author Share Posted August 13, 2008 Daniel Thanks, I'm getting ready for a ride so I'll have a quick look. I'll bring a tool with me if I have the adjuster screw on my bike. I will report later the results Cheers, John (Raceboy) I found the adjuster, it is held by a locking spring clip (underside of lever) which I removed, made the adjustment but could not fit the spring locking clip. The adjustment I made is beyond the notch in the adjustment screw to be able to accept the locking spring. I'll find another method of securing the adjuster screw. Nevertheless I will still do the fluid change over the next week or so. Greg I'm looking forward to reading your method for doing the fluid change. Raceboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest danhunt56 Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 I found the adjuster, it is held by a locking spring clip (underside of lever) which I removed, made the adjustment but could not fit the spring locking clip. The adjustment I made is beyond the notch in the adjustment screw to be able to accept the locking spring. I'll find another method of securing the adjuster screw. Mine does not have the locking spring clip, rather it seems to have a spring wire on top of the lever that maintains tension on the screw, or maybe it is just to retrun the lever to resting place away from the plunger... I was able to just turn the screw in. I too am curious to see what Greg comes up with as I have never heard of using mineral spirits to flush the lines and in fact the workshop manual makes a point not to. Perhaps he means to use it for something else? from the shop manual: "To purge the braking circuits, only use new fluid. WARNING The use of alcohol or compressed air for subsequent drying is absolutely prohibited; it is advisable to use “trichloroethylene” for the metallic parts. For any lubrications, the use of oils or mineral greases is absolutely prohibited. If you do not have suitable lubricants, it is advisable to grease the rubber and metallic components with system fluids. Use “Agip Brake Fluid DOT4”. " By the way, do you have the down loadable workshop manual? I think it is availble here or at least the instructions for getting it were once. Very entertaining if not always all that complete as few of them seem to be. I think they leave out the parts you get in the "factory training" aspect of being a mechanic. take care, Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Isn't Greg refering to flushing the clutch? I don't think that uses brake fluid at least mine isn't the color of the brake fluid on the other handlebar... I've been meaning to learn how to flush the clutch fluid myself so awaiting your reply Greg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 The only fluids you want in (or on for that matter)a brake or clutch hudraulic system is brake fluid. In an emergency you can use water. but this JUST to get you where you can service the hydraulic system. NEVER use any petroleum product in,on or around these rubber parts. If you would like to see what happens put brake rubber parts in gasoline overnight. If you are servicing these parts wash them with Brake-Kleen or products for use on brake parts. Since the clutch hydraulic system is basically one half of a brake caliper, treat it as a brake system. As far as I know DOT 4 and 5 fluid has a blue dye to distinguish it from DOT 3 . It has been said on this forum not to mix DOT and silicone fluid. It is not compatible? The easiest way to bleed the clutch (if you do not have enough tools and octupus arms) is to remove the rear wheel to gain access to the bleeder screw. You are only going to do this once anyway. you can find a long section of vacuum hose to go over the bleeder screw (after removing the dust cap) and then put the other end in an almost full clear bottle of brake fluid. you can either gravity bleed like me or slowly work the clutch lever until the fluid needs to be added to the reservoir. Do this tli you are satisfied the old fluid is gone.Tighten the bleeder screw ,then replace lost fluid, install the cover and work the clutch to see that it works properly. After you are satisfied it is OK then you can install the rear wheel. If you need more help call me... 270-335-5374 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest frankdugo Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 since you say that the bike is new to you ,and if you have not done so already,i would change all fluids&grease after a through cleaning----a ounce of prevention Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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