Ganzo Posted November 7, 2008 Share Posted November 7, 2008 Hello, Does anyone know how many pulse count(s) per engine revolution a V11 has and what is the voltage of the pulse? I am interested in using a Stewart Warner tach. Ganzo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted November 7, 2008 Share Posted November 7, 2008 Hello, Does anyone know how many pulse count(s) per engine revolution a V11 has and what is the voltage of the pulse? I am interested in using a Stewart Warner tach. Ganzo 366Hz @11000 RPM 12V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFB Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Which Stewart Warner tach? If you get one of the more expensive ones that is settable down to 1-PPR (pulse per revolution) then you can simply pick up off one coil. However most of the models have 2-PPR as the lowest setting. If not using the signal from from the ECU, then the Mega Squirt trick of a diode from each coil, feeding into a single reversed zener diode will drive the SW. I'm still in the process of fitting a 114002 to my Sport. That little bit deeper than a Veglia has made for all sorts of fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest arbik Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeve Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 On an almost completely unrelated topic: anyone have a clue as to where a servo triggered by the tach could be sourced? I'm intrigued by the possibility of an EXUP type x-over for the V11 being able to get rid of the low rpm "hole" in the powerband. I figure that as an add-on, it would need some easily configurable servo motor, vs. something ripped out of a Yamaha wrecker that was built in at the factory [& therefore not easily re-purposed.] Conceptually, this could be applied to any motorcycle, if the right pieces parts are assembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Hey, that's an easy one. I have no clue how it could be coded, but I'm quite sure this could be done with less than 100 lines of code. This is the one and only hurting point in my life where I think I've done something wrong - I had never learned C and I always was bored when it came to, even basic, electronics. The idea is very clear: clamp an ATMEGA to the tach signal, compare this to a fixed value and dial in some hysteresis using the TPS signal for instance. Above rpm-X flap pulls open, below X-x flap falls back, same when TPS falls to zero. Oh, if I ever could .... BTW, how much are the shown tachs? Has someone a good link to them? Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFB Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Ignitech TCIP4 is software configurable and has a channel to drive an EXUP-style servo. My Stewart Warner sat on the shelf for years, but it was well over AU$50 less than a replacement Veglia at the time. Nearly there now... Stewart Warner homepage No shortage of distributors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emry Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Baker Electronics I have used some of the other products and been happy. Look at the RWS and the ARWS switches, should do what you want. As for the actually motor portion I would get the system off a late model R6. Squids normally take them off right away, the EXUP valve (only present for noise emissions now) is located in the small slip-on on 06+ models. The motor will be a little more hard to come by, this is normally left on the bike so it does not trigger a FI code. Although people who put full systems on will bypass it and remove the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gio Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 2 So does anyone know of any 3 3/8" replacement tachs that will accept 1 PPR (Stewart Warner or otherwise) - mine has died and am reluctant to do the chop revive thing as it seems to have had mixed results in other cases - I would much prefer a higher quality replacement than the original Vaguelio ... Gio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 Low cost standard servo comes at about 5 EUR @Conrad. Attiny or a similar uC is ~2 EUR. Getting the thing done DYI style - priceless. I am waiting for the winter to start, so I can go on with my winter project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canny Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Cant help you with your problem , but mmaybe someone can help me with a related issue . installed a KOSO RX2N console and all works fine except the tacho , it is not reading the rpm at all . after selecting the correct stroke and cylinder number settings , there is a high or low option for the input signal - have tried both but still no rpm reading on the console ....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Cant help you with your problem , but mmaybe someone can help me with a related issue . installed a KOSO RX2N console and all works fine except the tacho , it is not reading the rpm at all . after selecting the correct stroke and cylinder number settings , there is a high or low option for the input signal - have tried both but still no rpm reading on the console ....... How did you connect the tach? Spark plug wire or tach pulse connector? I used tach pulse connector and works purrfectly. It is very tempting to use the "eye" to ground the signal wire. DON'T! Correct setting is 2 Pistons, 2 Cycles, Hi Active (if I can recall correctly) BTW, how did you mount the speed sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canny Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 How did you connect the tach? Spark plug wire or tach pulse connector? I used tach pulse connector and works purrfectly. It is very tempting to use the "eye" to ground the signal wire. DON'T! Correct setting is 2 Pistons, 2 Cycles, Hi Active (if I can recall correctly) BTW, how did you mount the speed sensor? tacho`s sorted , thanks for the info . i made a 2" plate , fitted it to the lower brake caliper fixing bolt and attached the sensor bracket included with the kit to it - it gave inconsistant reasings at first so i moved the sensor as close as possible to the disc bolts - works a treat . i am using the units EOBD light as my low fuel level indicator , however neither that nor the oil light are coming on when the ignition is turned on (neutral light`s working fine) even though the oil light should and the fuel tank is almost empty !!!!! any clues ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canny Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 tacho`s sorted , thanks for the info . i made a 2" plate , fitted it to the lower brake caliper fixing bolt and attached the sensor bracket included with the kit to it - it gave inconsistant reasings at first so i moved the sensor as close as possible to the disc bolts - works a treat . i am using the units EOBD light as my low fuel level indicator , however neither that nor the oil light are coming on when the ignition is turned on (neutral light`s working fine) even though the oil light should and the fuel tank is almost empty !!!!! any clues ? forgot to mention , LCD & neutral light are staying on when the ignition is turned off ..................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Hard to say really, but can give it a try... LCD + Neutral stays on - looks like the instrument is powered even with the ignition switched off. You are supposed to connect the red instrument wire directly to the + pole of the battery. Instrument's brown wire should be connected to the ignition switch. Not sure which wire would that be, but you can try with Guzzi's red/black (tach power supply + pole - have a wiring diagram ready). The red/black should be powered when ignition is on. Check with multimeter if you can. Oil light - should be straightforward. Guzzi's blue/black to the instrument's orange. If the lamp does not come on, it is likely because of the missing power connection as described above. I guess you left either battery or ignition key connection out. EOBD as fuel warning - not sure this will work. I also had a tank almost empty and measured some 500 ohm there. Tilting the tank up so the fuel would "free up" the sensor I measured some 900 ohm. Tried finding some reading about it, but no success. Beats me how it works. According to the wiring diagram it is some sort of a switch, but it kicks in gradually like a potentiometer. No clue. If anyone has a datasheet of Guzzi's fuel level switch/sensor, come forward... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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