Murray Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 The race only version anyone used them before comments etc etc. MGS has the road/race sintered metal pads but I feel thier performance is a little inconsistant the pads are probally the cheaper upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimitris Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 I use the carbon/ceramic pads for V11. Very satisfied. Never used racing ones nor will I. I recommend them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murray Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 Why do you not recommend the the race version? specfic heat range, excessive wear, other? I do not run my MGS anywhere except the track cheers for your thoughts. I think paul asked about this ages ago but I got off my rear and pulled the factory pads out, Brembo TT2472HH, 5908, 07.7855.10 I think the last number might be a batch number. There is some discolourisation of the paint on the back of the pad which is not normal IMO. The bed in period although simply went out on the track and rode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 the pads with my radial brembos, off a aprilia rsv factory, were: Brembo tt2172hh 07.7855.10 . That are the oem pads, and if you lookup prices are the most expensive brembo pads in the range. In combination with my pvm disks I liked them very much, I now have carbon loraine in them, also not bad. But Gyles says in the mgs01, he had the same pads as I have. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=147363 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murray Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 he also said he was getting brake fade with these pads and the different pads got rid of the problem. So it might be worth stumping up for the carbon pads I'll probally never be as fast as he ever was but there is a lot of me and MGS to pull up. The hardest braking point is also at the bottom of a hill off the fastest straight too might be worth a go, I'm trying to do some finacials to see of I can go to WSBK's at the end of feburay myself and the owner of Daytona Racing No1 are looking at doing a track day in the following days after the event so it would be nice to have this issue sorted especailly before going on one of the fastest tracks in the world :eek: and it been such a major exercise to get there, 3500kms plus. Local track couple of out laps if you haven't seen it http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=ER4G6r7zJ2c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murray Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 the pads I have currently hace the bronze coloured backing plates so I'm fairly certian they are sintered metal. Ive only managed to find refereance's for the current pads avaliable I think i have an older version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 mine have bronze back too. But isn't fading nothing else then boiling brake oil? I didn't have any problem with that. Put new brakefluid in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimitris Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Why do you not recommend the the race version? specfic heat range, excessive wear, other? I do not run my MGS anywhere except the track cheers for your thoughts. Oooops, I'm sorry, I just didn't realize that you were talking about the MGS... !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murray Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 mine have bronze back too. But isn't fading nothing else then boiling brake oil? I didn't have any problem with that. Put new brakefluid in? I have repeatedly flushed and bleed the brakes chasing this problem it does help but the problem seems to always return and I end up endlessly messing around with the lever adjustment and ending up with incisitant brake feel which makes juding corners a PITA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcbooghs Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Is there a difference with the Aprilia discs and calipers? I've been asking around but no aprilia rider seems to have these problems. (or maybe they just don't realize the problem!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 mine have bronze back too. But isn't fading nothing else then boiling brake oil? I didn't have any problem with that. Put new brakefluid in? Most brake fade is the brake fluid getting too hot. But that does not mean the pads aren't a factor. Some pads generate a lot more heat then other pads and will be more likely to have the problem. There are racing brake fluids that can take the heat better then the standard stuff, in the US the best fluid I have found is Wilwood. It does not last but it can take the heat well. So many pads nowdays are made for stainless discs and are not suited for cast iron. They generate too much heat and wear the discs out too fast. But they are geared for supersport racing where they have to run the stock discs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike wilson Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 At least three reasons for brake fade, not including mechanical faults and bad choice of brake material. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 I a ducati forum i've seen one 999 driver who had the same. Has been back to the dealer, that didn't solve it. It is still strange, I have the same calipers and never had the problem. Is it only at high australian temperatures or also when it's 20 degr celcius? You could upgrade the calipers to the newer from a 1098s, they have different size pads(bigger) and are monoblock as an extra. I've seen them for 400 euro the pair on ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murray Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 Re the temps non of the days were spectaculary hot (unlike today 40 celcius) 25-33 celcius with the 100's of degree's involved in braking I wouldn't of though 10-20 degree's would make a significant difference. might try the pads first easier and cheaper change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcbooghs Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 The Brembo 07BB0510 are OEM pads (carbon ceramic for street) I don't know what OEM means for the MGS which is not a street bike! In this case you need 07BB05RC (carbon ceramic for racing) Too bad these numbers aren't mentioned on the back of the pad! But with stainless discs you could also use sintered pads. In this case there is a lot of choice. Other carbon ceramic ones that fit are; Carbon Lorraine C43 link Ferodo CP211 (newer version of the CP911?) link Performance Friction 7535.95.08.92 (second n° stands for compound) link pleasant NOTE: this compound was/is used by Troy Baylliss (and many others) or if you want them really agressive (and don't use brakes in corners) 7535.05.08.94 And a, on internet, very recommended alternative should be the Lucas Carbon MCB 721 CRQ. also interesting: http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/...brake_pads.html EDIT: on Brembo homepage: download this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now