nanosecond Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Read a few of the posts on here about oil pressure... hoping this is the simple problem / solution! My V11 Tenni has a pretty low idle (about 8 - 900 rpm) and on a short run often needs a bit of choke to run. I also found that the bike would stall as I came up to a stop light. The oil pressure light would flicker at the same time. A couple of weeks ago, I had been out for a ride and the oil pressure light came on. It didn't flicker this time, but stayed on so I was thinking all sorts of impending disaster. Anyway I give it a handful and the light goes out. Soon as I take the throttle off, its goes on again... and so on etc. I checked the oil when I got in and stuck in about two litres. I have only had the bike a few months and have covered about 800 miles or so. The bike seemed to ride a lot better as a result. All's been good until this weekend. Did about 150 miles on the bike and I got the same thing (cutting out at a stop, although no flickering light); full on oil pressure light at idle, which went out when I revved it. I cant imagine the bikes using that much oil, its certainly not burning any, so is it: A - Faulty oil pressure sender B - idle needs turning up a bit C - something else Any suggestions welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Nano, the idle should be 1200 RPM. At 800-900 RPM the oil pump is not anywhere near capable of maintaining 2-5 PSI (0.15-0.35 Kg/cm^2) oil pressure , which is the make/break for the oil pressure sensor switch. Operating oil pressure for the mains and crankpin journal is 54-60 PSI (3.8-4.2 Kg/cm^2). If you haven't yet done too much damage, you might be OK. Only time and/or a con-rod caps-off inspection of the bearing shells and crankpin journal will tell for sure. The big-end bearings are the first to let go when she can't take any more metal-on-metal, the heat and cumulative galling of the crankpin journal finally overcomes the integrity of the bearing, it spins in the big ends, and she torches and seizes up solid, or a rod lets go under the strain and makes a break for daylight through the side of the block (whichever comes first, depending on RPMs). By the time you see the idiot light, some damage is already done, but these old donks seem to be able to take quite a bit in stride. Crank up the rear-facing, 2.5 mm allen idle screw at the bottom outboard of the left-hand throttle body. FYI -- Your Tenni has no choke, being fuel injected. You're referring to the idle advance lever. But everyone knows wot you mean. FYI (Part II) -- TWO LITERS is A LOT of oil to add! It must have been VERY LOW -- as in, well off the end of the dipstick! Best keep the level up to at least the mid-point between Hi and Lo on the dipstick at all times! Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savagehenry Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Hey Nanosec, There are two things I would do first. Your idle speed is a bit low for my tastes. An idle speed of 1200 rpm+/- would be better as you need oil to get to the top end when the bike is just idling, like at a light. Also, the low idle, when combined with tight valve settings, creates exactly what you are describing. I think MG manual suggests intake at .002" and exhaust at .004", too tight. Unless you know they aren't set to those numbers, I would go with .006" and .008". "Tapping tappets are happy tappets." Alot of folks here make those changes and really start to smile their asses off. Also, don't lug these bikes running at 2000-3000 rpm! These bikes like to run over 4000 rpm on the road, and really come alive above 5500-6000, and will run all day like this. I find a very comfortable cruising speed is usually about 4500-5000 rpm. You will be rewarded with these things done, I'm guessing... Good luck, S.H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I'd check to see that the filter is tight. Check also the gasket (upper sump gasket) that seals the oil passages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nanosecond Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 thanks for all of the advice! sorting out the idle is a quick fix for the next day off! I am tending to keep the bike in second around town which is good for about 4500 rpm and unless i'm on a motorway (read interstate) I like to keep the engine singing... again, thanks for the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan M Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 What they said. Greg may have a +1 statistic for a loose filter. One thing though. Giving it a handfull with the light on is not good. If your pressure really is low you don't want to load it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 One other thing: One time I saw similar symptoms on a customer bike. When he changed the filter, the rubber gasket from the previous filter was stuck on the filter mount, so when he added the new filter there were two gaskets. One slipped, allowing oil pressure to bleed off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan M Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 When he changed the filter, the rubber gasket from the previous filter was stuck on the filter mount, so when he added the new filter there were two gaskets. One slipped, allowing oil pressure to bleed off. Sounds like the kind of guy who would need a hose clamp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Sounds like the kind of guy who would need a hose clamp . . .Or have somebody he can trust 100% without reservation do this for him, and everything else, too. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savagehenry Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I don't remember ever having the gasket come off any other filter I've used, bike or car. I've had it happen with both UFI's I've changed. No big deal as long as you keep your eyes open for it though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 FWIW, here's wot allowing the low oil pressure idiot light to come on once too often can look like. Shamelessly lifted from Ed Milich's Schrapnel Italia page at GuzziTech: Evidently, it was a bad day for somebody somewhere in France. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Evidently, it was a bad day for somebody somewhere in France. Actually more likely is simply torched big ends rather than a snapped rod. If you want to see that have a look at the engine strip pics on Guzzitech Dk. The oil pressure relief valve fell out of that one and the results aren't pretty! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 I wish I could post pix of the insides of my buddy's Quota engine after the filter spun off, but I can't. It's so fused together from heat that I cannot get the rods off of the crank. That filter had been on for over 3000 miles when it suddenly decided to spin off. The results of that ain't purty neither. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 I wish I could post pix of the insides of my buddy's Quota engine after the filter spun off, but I can't. It's so fused together from heat that I cannot get the rods off of the crank. That filter had been on for over 3000 miles when it suddenly decided to spin off. The results of that ain't purty neither. I saw that in Greg's Gay-Rage. it was so rooted the bolts had broken but the rods were still soldered to the crank with melted bearing! I Imagine the only way they'll be coming out is by removing the heads, barrels and pistons and beating seven shades of shit out of them until the 'solder' gives way or just cut the creank and rods up whollus-bollus with a gas axe or angle grinder. Bleargh!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G. Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 I saw that in Greg's Gay-Rage. it was so rooted the bolts had broken but the rods were still soldered to the crank with melted bearing! I Imagine the only way they'll be coming out is by removing the heads, barrels and pistons and beating seven shades of shit out of them until the 'solder' gives way or just cut the creank and rods up whollus-bollus with a gas axe or angle grinder. Bleargh!!! Pete Shit pete, you make me laugh. You should write a book of quotes! "Beating seven shades of shit", "whollus-bollus", I love this shit. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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