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Oil level Check..Best Procedure?


Flittingman

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Hi Everyone,

 

I'm pretty new to this Moto Guzzi lark, in fact it took nearly 1,000 miles to discover why my right knee kept rubbing against the fairing, but not the left.....Maybe a 2002 Le Mans wasn't the best way to get back into biking after a 20 year lay off, but they do get right under your skin, don't they?

 

Anyway, can anyone offer some advice on checking the oil level? I know this is the most basic thing, but the manual with the bike was impressively vague on this, and of course with there being no centre stand, this is all the bit more difficult. I have been checking with the bike as vertical as I dare, but realise this isn't ideal.

 

Partly why I ask is that it hardly seems to use any oil. I bought it with 5 miles on the clock as a dealer pre-reg model, it got a service/oil change at 900 miles 12 months ago and hasn't seemed to need any since, now at 2,400 miles. is this typical?

 

Sorry to ask such a simple question, best to make sure though, right?

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Guest ratchethack
Anyway, can anyone offer some advice on checking the oil level?

Welcome, Flittingman.

 

Always best to "make sure" -- even when consulting a "consensus" o' Guzzi nutters such as this here, wi' many gone well 'round the bend by this time o' Winter. . .

 

post-1212-1265137588.jpg

 

Prepare for at least a page of needless controversy, foolishness, folderol, and multiple, conflicting declarations about the "right way" and "the wrong way". . . :P

 

To borrow on Badge502's recent thread elsewhere that may (or may not?) need translation:

screwdup.JPG

If the concept of 'screwed up completely' seems potentially counter-productive, the manual does require a bit of "reading between the lines" at times. :lol:

 

Now this is just me, but I've always taken readings whilst sitting on a low crate, keeping the bike steady and level by the LHS handlebar with the left hand, and spinning the dipstick all the way down and back out with the right. It's hard for me to imagine how it could be much easier than this, but some seem entirely incapable, or maybe they don't have a low crate or stool handy to sit on? In any case, many have found that if you leave the bike on the side stand and just rest the dipstick on the top of the threads without 'screwing it up completely' :P , the read amounts to the same (or something "more correct"?!), though I question how they're able to get either a consistent or accurate read this way -- since depending on how you hold the dipstick, being just a little off on the angle can throw your read considerably off?! :huh2:

 

Now by all means -- let wot will surely become another o' the Classic Winter ClusterFarges of all Guzzidom proceed. . . ;)

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.....I've always taken readings whilst sitting on a low crate, keeping the bike steady and level by the LHS handlebar with the left hand, and spinning the dipstick all the way down and back out with the right. ...

 

A splendid method!

 

I forego the crate, simply adopting a squatting posture. This crateless method isn't recommended if you have any doubts about your stability.

 

Always keep oil up to max on stick. Not a problem I've experienced but there have been odd cases of oil pick up being starved under hard acceleration - I suspect this may only be an issue if you let level drop. There's loads of stuff on that if you do a search....

 

They don't use much oil.

 

KB :sun:

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Thanks Guys,

 

I apprciate your responses, yeah, I like the crate idea, seems a safer way of doing it. Must get myself one of these Guzzi crates...

 

One final thing, "run for a few minutes" I assume till it will run cleanly without the choke, say 3/4 minutes,? I guess if it gets to hot this will affect the reading also?

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Some bikes experience oil starvation when the level is set by the factory method. It is wise to fill it to the full level as read by the following modification to the method oalready given: Instead of screwing the dipstick all the way in, screw it on only one turn or less (just enough to ensure that the stick is not cocked going into the case. This will prevent oil starvation in almost every case. For the few on which it does not, the best cure is a Roper sloppage plate.

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As far as I recall the stick meets the oil pretty near center of the sump. This means that you can put it on the sidestand and the reading wont be affected much. It's not a millimeter critical reading anyway, I'm not too afraid of a little over filling.

 

I don't recall ever having to top up oil, but don't let that lead you away from checking now and then.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Helo sir, at last a question I can answer easily: buy a "Bike Grab"!!

 

They cost up to £90 I think, and hold the bike nicely upright for storage, routine getting ast bits etc, and save the side stand: which I always worry will become floppy over time (doesn't everything?).

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Helo sir, at last a question I can answer easily: buy a "Bike Grab"!!

 

They cost up to £90 I think, and hold the bike nicely upright for storage, routine getting ast bits etc, and save the side stand: which I always worry will become floppy over time (doesn't everything?).

 

That is pretty cool. Here's a website ===> http://www.bikegrab.com/ (In England)

 

In the USA ===> http://www.baxleycompanies.com/Sportchock.html (sort of expensive)

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For those interested in the "Bike Grab" (made in England) I found a place here in the states that sells them:

 

===> www.lifts-and-stands.com

 

But they are a little pricey--$179.

 

I think I may buy one of the cheaper wheel chocks, which run from $20-$50, and mount it on a piece of plywood for garage use. I already have a front and rear wheel lift rack for sport bikes.

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For those interested in the "Bike Grab" (made in England) I found a place here in the states that sells them:

 

===> www.lifts-and-stands.com

 

But they are a little pricey--$179.

 

I think I may buy one of the cheaper wheel chocks, which run from $20-$50, and mount it on a piece of plywood for garage use. I already have a front and rear wheel lift rack for sport bikes.

Try ebay. It has a bunch of options under $100.

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Partly why I ask is that it hardly seems to use any oil. I bought it with 5 miles on the clock as a dealer pre-reg model, it got a service/oil change at 900 miles 12 months ago and hasn't seemed to need any since, now at 2,400 miles. is this typical?

 

Sorry to ask such a simple question, best to make sure though, right?

 

My 1100 sport (same motor older model) with 120odd 000kms uses negligible amounts between 5000kms services so yes this is normal.

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