suspension upgrades

[nanosecond]

Any recommendations / suggestions to upgrade the suspension on my tenni?

 

It already has a hagon shock (not fitted by me), which I am thinking of getting rebuilt with a heavier spring and remote resivior, but I am wondering about the forks.

 

As there the adjusters for rebound and compression are seperate, does this mean their is a spring in one fork and a damper in the other or are they conventional. Dependent on the answer it's likely to make a big difference to how much I need to budget for.

 

Any guidance gratefully accepted!

[al_roethlisberger]

Any recommendations / suggestions to upgrade the suspension on my tenni?

 

It already has a hagon shock (not fitted by me), which I am thinking of getting rebuilt with a heavier spring and remote resivior, but I am wondering about the forks.

 

As there the adjusters for rebound and compression are seperate, does this mean their is a spring in one fork and a damper in the other or are they conventional. Dependent on the answer it's likely to make a big difference to how much I need to budget for.

 

Any guidance gratefully accepted!

 

 

Since the Tenni had the same stock suspension as the first generation V11 Sport models, any of the upgrades available for any V11 Sport variant will work. Rear shock replacements are generally a same-for-same bolt on affair, but some front suspension changes may require modifications to axles, bearings, etc. It just depends.

 

I'd do a search on the main forums for "shocks", "forks", and also check out Guzzi Tech to see what Todd is currently offering.

 

Al

[nanosecond]

Since the Tenni had the same stock suspension as the first generation V11 Sport models, any of the upgrades available for any V11 Sport variant will work. Rear shock replacements are generally a same-for-same bolt on affair, but some front suspension changes may require modifications to axles, bearings, etc. It just depends.

 

I'd do a search on the main forums for "shocks", "forks", and also check out Guzzi Tech to see what Todd is currently offering.

 

Al

Thanks Al, will look into those. The Guzzitech website is useful. Could do with some of these stores / resources in the UK!

[nanosecond]

Another long overdue update.

 

Had my forks rebuilt and a new shock by Maxton.

 

Forks are back on, but i'm debating whether to fit the shock myself for two reasons:

 

Tank Removal: is there a way to do this without getting petrol over me and the bike?

Torque settings: I spent half a day printing out the owners manual and part catalogue from the tractor guy (very useful), but compared to other WSM's I have used (not Haynes, hemanufacturer ones) I am frustrated by the lack of info around torque settings. I refitted the forks and front assemblies working on similar numbers to my other bikes.

 

Does anyone have the recommended settings for the kind of stuff you find yourself always doing, e.g. wheels, calipers etc. ??

[stockport claret]

Hi Nano,

congrats on getting Maxton it will make the bike so much better to ride.

To change the rear shock you will need to remove the tank, side panels and air box. you will also need some way of supporting the bike from underneath. I used a couple of car scissor jacks under the tie rod that runs from one side of the bike to the other.

The tank is not to difficult and the directions in the workshop manual are straight forward. Just remember to pull off the breather pipe which is underneath the middle of the tank.

take the side panels off, then remove battery tray and airbox.

then it's the easy task of taking the old shock and remote off and putting on your new one.

All told it took about 1 1/2hrs to do.

[nanosecond]

Hello,

 

Thanks for the reply (and the other stuff under my 'tank removal' post)

 

Can't wait to 'feel the difference' with front and rear sorted!

 

Have you gone the same (maxton) route?

 

Cheers!

[stockport claret]

Hi Nano,

Yep i've got maxton forks and rear shock. I followed Richards advice and just fitted them and not adjusted them.

The difference between stock and the maxton is night and day.

No more jarring ride, it seams to float over rough roads now

[nanosecond]

Rear shock now fitted.. Ride height much improved is first impression...

 

Cost (for those that are thinking of going same route) was less than £1,000 all in

[neophyte]

Hi Nano,

congrats on getting Maxton it will make the bike so much better to ride.

To change the rear shock you will need to remove the tank, side panels and air box. you will also need some way of supporting the bike from underneath. I used a couple of car scissor jacks under the tie rod that runs from one side of the bike to the other.

The tank is not to difficult and the directions in the workshop manual are straight forward. Just remember to pull off the breather pipe which is underneath the middle of the tank.

take the side panels off, then remove battery tray and airbox.

then it's the easy task of taking the old shock and remote off and putting on your new one.

All told it took about 1 1/2hrs to do.

The workshop manual says "remove quick disconnect hoses from tank" . This to me is not straightforward because I don't understand how they "quick disconnect". I've pushed the "gray" collar with my fingers forward and back, like I would an air chuck collar, but it doesn't move with light/medium finger pressure. I don't understand these fittings. It is not straightforward to me - I'm ignorant as to how get the the hoses off so I can get the tank off............

 

I'm frustrated.. any help? pictures? do i need to pry with a screw driver on plastic?

[jrt]

DON'T use a screwdriver. If the quick disconnects are not coming apart, you aren't doing it right. I think the trick is (from memory) to push them together, then they pop apart. Someone correct me if I'm wrong and thinking about a different style. It's been awhile since I've worked, or even seen, my bike.

[savagehenry]

Push on the hose w/ rt. hand, push the fitting towards the hose w/ your left, pull on the hose while pushing with your left. Be prepared to catch a cup of gas when the lines drain. I set a rag below, with a beheaded beer can to drain into.

[Skeeve]

I'm frustrated.. any help? pictures? do i need to pry with a screw driver on plastic?

 

Don't use a screwdriver: that'll only break off the plastic elbow and ruin your whole day/week/month!

 

I use needle-nose vice grips, myself. What! No, you don't put any compression on the fitting: I like the vice-grips because they give you the ability to adjust the jaw opening to just catch the edges of the QR fitting when the handles are completely closed. As someone else said, you push in on the hose, to take tension off the fitting, while using the plier tips to push the QR fitting away from the elbow on the tank. Also as someone else said, it'll pop loose & dribble a few ounces of fuel all over the place, so don't do this with a hot engine. It also helps to wait a few minutes for pressure to bleed down if you've had the ignition switched to "ON" any time recently...[DAMHIK]

 

BTW, I've tried doing this w/ my fingers, & there's no f!cking way: even w/ the n-n vice grips it's a trial... Frankly, I'm amazed that the plastic elbows survive even one disconnect: those parts really deserve to be made of stainless steel or something!