Headlight Losses

[Kiwi_Roy]

Roy just realized something I have totally overlooked: the pressure switch is closed when the oil pressure is LOW, not the other way round. This invalidates the diagrams I posted that use the switch for turning off the headlight when engine is not running. It can still be done but you'd need to do it another way. Stay tuned.

Raz,

Easy mistake to make, I missed it also, even the drawing in the manual shows it open, not closed as it should.

In hind-site I think using the switch is more problem than it's worth. I will go with your original, 2 relays, 2 diodes, it's simple and elegant, I wonder if the kit-set mentioned has the diode backup feature.

I bought all the parts, ran a New # 12 from a fuse at the battery and another #12 ground back from headlight to frame under the tank.

I was fixated on having the headlight off because I ran my new battery flat while testing after about 15 minutes, now after riding all day I find my battery is only charged to 12.5 Volts, the warning light comes on below about 1500 rpm. I obviously have a charging problem which I need to fix, once that's sorted the headlight on will be dead issue.

All the connections are tight, perhaps it's the regulator, are you aware of any issues with those?

NB, the battery charges to normal 13.5 on a trickle charger

Roy

[luhbo]

.... the battery charges to normal 13.5 on a trickle charger

Roy

 

That's not enough. They need 14.8V, no current limitation, and of course no trickle charging. At least if you want to treat them correctly.

 

For the regulator: try putting it in an oven at 120°C for 1 hour. This might cure him.

 

Hubert

[raz]

I think Roy meant it holds 13.5 V after charging, which is enough or even a little high (after "resting" for a while without the charger, the battery should be 12.8 V in room temperature). Otherwise Hubert is right, these AGM batteries are a little special and should ideally be charged with a voltage closer to (but not above) 15 V.

 

I can't come up with a good and simple schematic for the pressure switch. Here is one that should work but it adds another relay. I don't like that. A transistor could be used instead but I don't like that either.

I guess something like this is what you meant, Hubert? Like you said, if the pressure relay fails you will probably still have light. Also, we can use the diode around the second relay again.

 

Like Roy, I think the other schematic is better. KISS principle is good.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I think Roy meant it holds 13.5 V after charging, which is enough or even a little high (after "resting" for a while without the charger, the battery should be 12.8 V in room temperature).

 

Yes, I have a 1 amp charger after leaving it on overnight the battery is 13.5 (charger removed back in the bike) but after running all day I killed the engine to turn off the headlight straight away and measured 12.5 so I suspect the regulator is set internally at 12.5.

 

Perhaps it's putting out the correct ~ 15 v and I am loosing some in the wiring.

Does anyone have a schematic of the regulator internals?

Thanks

Roy

[raz]

Its principal is described here: http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/enduralast%20450%20voltage%20regulation.pdf (aftermarket replacement)

 

Check that you don't have a voltage drop between regulator ground (casing) and battery negative.

 

I had to replace my regulator a year ago. It worked, sort of, but was too weak so probably it only used one phase. It didn't produce a net charge below 3000 rpm.

[JoeV11]

In one of the old threads on this someone recommended getting a headlight relay harness from http://www.easternbeaver.com/ . That's what I did a few years back and it made a big improvement in light output. It was pretty much plug & play except I had to run a new wire for the little running light in the headlight. There wasn't enough room in the LeMans headlight bucket so I attached the relays to the underside of the fairing frame above the headlight. Definitely a good investment

 

 

I bought one of those kits a few years ago - I really need to get moving and install it. At the same time I bought a dual relay kit from him and installed it in my car. That made a world of difference too! Joe

[docc]

I've checked my voltage drop today while switching to a Silver Star Ultra (9003SU). I haven't had good life out of the standard Silver Star (4000 miles), but Sylvania assures me they'll replace it if it plays up inside 12 months. Worth a try as I really like the color and projection pattern.

 

Voltage drop adding each leg from the battery to the connector: 0.5 vDC.

 

Voltage drop measuring across the battery and subtracting the measure across the connector: 0.6 vDC at 2000 rpm

 

This connector is fed and grounded by 16 gauge wire, through a 10 amp circuit breaker and separate OMRON relays for high and low beam in the bucket.

[al_roethlisberger]

Sure. The diodes must be rated at least 5 A and if they are I wouldn't care about overheating. Diodes almost always fail to shortcut anyway, and in this case that wouldn't harm too much. I just used the larger size insulated spade connectors for all of them, because I had plenty of them and none of the smaller. Make double sure you protect all wires from chafing.

 

 

This is just the plain ol' relaying, but with diodes added that will give you light even if the relay fails. I recommend using 1-1.5 mm² wires for the new feed. For slow nations, that's 15-17 AWG.

 

I endorse spreading, without caring the slightest if my name is mentioned or not.

Any disclaimer you or I can think of applies.

 

 

I think it was Gary Cheek? who first mentioned this in this forum back around 2003ish and provided a very similar diagram which a few of us implemented with the results reported in this thread.... much better lighting, and more confidence that our switch-gear wasn't going to melt

 

He didn't include any diodes as a fail-safe though, which I admit is a pretty good idea. But one would have to lose both relays and/or some combination of low/high filaments in the bulb to have NO light, so I don't think I will add them to my setup now as you'd have to be pretty unlucky. But if I were building it from scratch again this would be the way to go. Good going!

 

BTW, the following gizmo looks really slick for these types of wiring bypasses and other accessories. I'm thinking of picking one up to clean up my 3-4 added circuits, fuses and relays for horns, lights and heated grips. I hate my stack of rings on the battery.... just one more place for electrical SNAFUs This would clean it up nicely.

 

http://www.aerostich.com/powerpak-power-distribution-module-pdm60.html

 

Anyone play with one of these yet?

 

Al