Jamie Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 My charging system idiot light does not go on when the key is turned to the 'ON' position... figured the bulb was bad. Cannot get the rubber grommet/bulb assembly out to save my life!? What is going on here? Anyone? Thanks. Jamie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 yet, the oil light does come on with the key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 My charging system idiot light does not go on when the key is turned to the 'ON' position... figured the bulb was bad. Cannot get the rubber grommet/bulb assembly out to save my life!? What is going on here? Anyone? Thanks. Jamie Yes they are very hard to pull out that way because the lamp supports the rubber boot. I pulled mine from the front. If you take the cover of the light slide a piece of tubing e.g. heat shrink over the lamp you can grip it with needle nosed pliers. I replaced all my lamps with LEDs . The lamp-holders leave a lot to be desired, some lamps have a double sided contact that causes a short circuit when they are inserted (see attached) because of this I soldered them in place. Alternately you could order new lamp bases and glue them in place. They look brighter than the original, I am very pleased with them. Because LEDs have a very narrow light wavelength you must chose a lamp the same colour as the lens. Guzzi Lamps.pdf Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 yet, the oil light does come on with the key? No, the light does not come on at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 No, the light does not come on at all... I was probably not careful enough in my post, but asking if the other indicator lights (oil and hi beam) may also be out in addition to the battery (charging) indicator. If none of the indicators burn, look to the headlight (#2) relay, or perhaps Fuse 5. (The neutral indicator light is on another circuit) EDIT: Jamie, I realize you were talking "charging' lamp, and I didn't mean to confuse matters asking about the other indicators, but I had Sport over a couple days ago that the charge lamp was out and we traced it to the second relay. Otherwise, I remember these bulb sockets having grounding problems. There's on old thread (I think it was Callison) who showed how to epoxy the buggers in place with JB Weld for better reliability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 OK, so I did find the three hex head bolts to access the front section of the warning light dash are all turning without backing out... seems as though the nuts on the other side of the housing are all loose within the molded plastic backing. The backing itself is cracked which has allowed the nuts to spin freely. Ordered a new back... I guess I'm a little discouraged at some of the quality within the dash components so far... Also found while accessing the dash that the nuts and bolts holding the windshield onto the fairing have worn grooves into both from the vibration... Has anyone replaced the steel bolts with plastic nuts or the like? Thanks again for all the comments and help! Jamie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 yet, the oil light does come on with the key? Sorry Docc, that was my fault... Yes, all the other warning lights are functioning. When the key is turned to the 'on' position, the neutral light and oil light are on, then the oil light goes off (as it should) after engine is started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pasotibbs Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Yes they are very hard to pull out that way because the lamp supports the rubber boot. I pulled mine from the front. If you take the cover of the light slide a piece of tubing e.g. heat shrink over the lamp you can grip it with needle nosed pliers. I replaced all my lamps with LEDs . The lamp-holders leave a lot to be desired, some lamps have a double sided contact that causes a short circuit when they are inserted (see attached) because of this I soldered them in place. Alternately you could order new lamp bases and glue them in place. They look brighter than the original, I am very pleased with them. Because LEDs have a very narrow light wavelength you must chose a lamp the same colour as the lens. Guzzi Lamps.pdf Roy Just in case you haven't realized yet, the low fuel light needs to draw enough current for the thyrister in the tank to heat up when not covered by fuel.If I understand correctly an LED will not draw enough current to work but I imagine a resistor could be added to fix this ? I just thought I'd mention it and save you a long push to the filling station Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 OK, so I did find the three hex head bolts to access the front section of the warning light dash are all turning without backing out... seems as though the nuts on the other side of the housing are all loose within the molded plastic backing. The backing itself is cracked which has allowed the nuts to spin freely. Ordered a new back... I guess I'm a little discouraged at some of the quality within the dash components so far... Also found while accessing the dash that the nuts and bolts holding the windshield onto the fairing have worn grooves into both from the vibration... Has anyone replaced the steel bolts with plastic nuts or the like? Thanks again for all the comments and help! Jamie I think the holder will pop out the back you just have to reef on it Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Just in case you haven't realized yet, the low fuel light needs to draw enough current : Yes, good point, I mentioned that in my attachment, without the extra load the LED is on all the time. I just used one of the old lamps since I didn't have a suitable resistor handy, besides the lamp has another advantage, low resistance when cold giving a higher voltage to the thermistor thus making it more sensitive. Mine works great, starts by intermittent operation on braking then full on well before running out, nice and bright too. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pasotibbs Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Yes, good point, I mentioned that in my attachment, without the extra load the LED is on all the time. I just used one of the old lamps since I didn't have a suitable resistor handy, besides the lamp has another advantage, low resistance when cold giving a higher voltage to the thermistor thus making it more sensitive. Mine works great, starts by intermittent operation on braking then full on well before running out, nice and bright too. Roy Good, I didn't realize that the LED stayed on so thought I'd best mention it just in case.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distilled Waters Run Deep Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Yes they are very hard to pull out that way because the lamp supports the rubber boot. I pulled mine from the front. If you take the cover of the light slide a piece of tubing e.g. heat shrink over the lamp you can grip it with needle nosed pliers. I replaced all my lamps with LEDs . The lamp-holders leave a lot to be desired, some lamps have a double sided contact that causes a short circuit when they are inserted (see attached) because of this I soldered them in place. Alternately you could order new lamp bases and glue them in place. They look brighter than the original, I am very pleased with them. Because LEDs have a very narrow light wavelength you must chose a lamp the same colour as the lens. Roy I'm trying to do this to my Jackal -any clues on best way to remove the light covers? I assume you mean the coloured plastic lenses... Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 I'm trying to do this to my Jackal -any clues on best way to remove the light covers? I assume you mean the coloured plastic lenses... Phil Is yours the mushroom shaped aluminum thing, you remove the 3 screws exposing a white plastic arrangement, the coulourd lens is just sitting there, you might need a sharp knife to pick it out. LED Panel Lamps.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distilled Waters Run Deep Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Thanks mate -all that tugging from the rubber side, it's amazing the bulb is still intact! Easy now Thanks also for all the useful information here. I know what a diode is. I've got an old zener diode somewhere with a heat sink on it, wonder what it would look like wired into the indicator dashlight & strapped to the side of the dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Corpo portaspie is made of extremely brittle plastic and will break when you attempt to unscrew the three little screws holding the lid on it. Especially if the screws haven't been greased during installation (they haven't) and have corroded together with the nuts embedded in the lamp holder. May the force be with you (as it seems to be the only way to pry this apart). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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