Distilled Waters Run Deep

-the ethanol in fuel issue would worry me, too. Sorry to those who've had these beautiful tanks made up!

I've seen on previous posts that the Cali fuel sensor is a simple on/off affair, does anyone know of a better replacement or if it will be feasible to fit the acewell sensor?

Cheers Craig -I gather they do overseas shipping at reasonable cost. I'll copy to the tech section, as you suggest. BW Phil

I'm almost certain to go for an Acewell pod (70 or 85mm diameter) http://www.acewell.co.uk/Uses/Motorcycle%20-%20Road/index.htm -they do adaptors for Guzzis, lots of options...

New to this, looks likely I'll fit an Acewell single pod I'm having trouble inserting images & links to their site, sorry... They make an electronic speedo cable adaptor for Guzzis... I've seen on previous posts that the Cali fuel sensor is a simple on/off affair, does anyone know of a better replacement or if it will be feasible to fit the acewell sensor?

Hwyl Cymro! Have you become so refined in case the new UFIs are made of recycled cola cans & need a more perspicacious approach, or just for the joy of such precision?

That easily puts me off the hassle of changing my filter this time... thanks Pete. When I do, it will be easily spun off as usual, noting whether the jubilee clip has moved the 1/4" to the pressure valve/stop this time... Whenever I find one I can't remove (usually on my car) I bang an old screwdriver through it with a rubber hammer & use that as a lever. Hey, 350$ tools for something you're going to throw away?!?!

Sorry if this has been covered already -can't find anything with a search -I've heard that UFI are now getting the filters manufactured somewhere else. Does anyone know if the quality still holds?

I think (not sure) that all V10/V11 bikes (from Centauro, California to Lemans) have the same dash, so there is quite an "applicability range". If the screw spins then the stud, or better, the plastic around it is already broken and you can pull the lid off together with all the screws. No need to drill, just give it a good yank and finish the corpo portaspie off. Yoda: "Broken it already is." In that case, if you can find a glue to fix the plastic with, on reassembly you'll have the same ridiculous situation with screw through dash through steel ferrule into plastic, jigging it all together as you go. I found some tiny o rings to hold the ferrules from gravity's evil mocking cruelty while I put mine back together.

my charging light hasn't worked for 6 mos. or so,(although the bike charges just fine)lately the light works *some* of the time. haven't been able to get the cover off to try to change bulb, as the top 2 little allen screws come out, bottom one just spins. i think this is what you're talking about, i don't think i want to change the bulb bad enough to get the hammer out. any other way? thanks, stef I'm not sure which bike this is for, but it sounds from your description as if one option is to drill the cap off the screw that spins. Maybe superglue it in place if it spins with the drill bit!?

Ta -but those 3 came out ok & the black lozenge-shaped cover seems ok -the 2 blocks of three bulbs were only held in by one screw each though (2 mounting holes),& one of the mounts of those had cracked apart Ho hum, used a bit of plastic glue, left to set til later. A bit of a daft design with screws through dashplate into ferrules into plastic. Requires 3 hands & antigravity field to reassemble. Maybe some tiny o rings to lock ferrules into place. Noticed the earth wire to the speedo bulb (too short!) was hanging by a few bare threads, plastic sheath obviously pinched. Now soldered together, heatshrink sleeved & taped. Some previous criminal has rounded out the allen bolts which hold the chrome cover onto the speedo, so let's hope that doesn't want any attention. While at it all had planned to grease the speedo cable, will have to do so from the other end

Thanks mate -all that tugging from the rubber side, it's amazing the bulb is still intact! Easy now Thanks also for all the useful information here. I know what a diode is. I've got an old zener diode somewhere with a heat sink on it, wonder what it would look like wired into the indicator dashlight & strapped to the side of the dash?

I'm trying to do this to my Jackal -any clues on best way to remove the light covers? I assume you mean the coloured plastic lenses... Phil

Docc, thanks for this. It says more about my neurotic fixations than the Welsh Springtime that I've read some of it -& even enjoyed it!

So now I'm back to a working switch & a gauge that shows high pressure... still haven't tried another dial -does anyone have any ideas on the best live feed to tap into for the gauge? I've used the supply to the rear brake switch -maybe not the best?

I probably didn't do it any favours running the current from the warning switch through it, & it got knocked about a bit while fitting. Still showing 45ish - 80, & the warning light came on again yesterday -it is a recent replacement, an Intermotor 50570. Perhaps the mixed currents damaged that too, or perhaps the ridiculous Welsh rain has connected something else in the loom. Bike runs like a dream though

I've been posting on Greg's pressure gauge thread here, but if you don't want another link -dropped sump today & filter still where I left it. But I don't know why the damn warning light came on when the gauge was reading 60-70psi! "Thats hot! I wonder how accurate those guages are? " -I've just put the dipstick into a can of water on the hob, and just as it came to the boil it reads a shade under 100 degrees. Not a lot of use while you're riding, but it is accurate.

:wacko: ok so that should be preserved. So finally I hooked it to a live feed, got 60psi at tickover, up to 80 at speed, even when motor well warmed up. Yesterday the oil warning light came on, but gauge was reading 65-70. I stopped anyway, looked around & couldn't see or hear anything amiss & started her up. Oil pressure at tickover about 40, rising to 60 at anything over tickover. I continued my journey. I've had the warning light fail to come on when the motor's warmed up & I shut down, which is why I bought a new switch -still does it sometimes. On the return (13 miles) everything was as normal. I dropped the sump today & the filter is... -exactly as it was when I put it in, snug & with a jubilee clip backed off an inch or so, so that I can tell on next change whether there's been a spin. I wonder where to look next?

Couldn't find one, so I went for a fairly cheap electronic sender & gauge (ket) & a long reach brass T block 12mm to 1/8npt adaptor from www.europaspares.com. Many attempts with combinations of various shims/washers got that to fit at an angle which I could squeeze the sender into, & I mounted the dial inside an aluminium tumbler (!) on a homemade dural bracket. I took the power supply for the dial from a new connection made from the pressure switch supply... so does that explain why the oil pressure light is always faintly on (bright when the motor's not running) & I get readings between 65psi to what must be about 110 psi -or can anyone throw any new ideas in?

Without a thread gauge -the Jackal seems to be a 12 x 1.5 thread to me. I've bought a switch with a spade connector: Intermotor part No. 50570 or XOPS8. Looks right -I've found on another forum "50570 22 M12 x 1.5 2.9-7.3" -the last 2 figures relate to the p.s.i. at which it operates.

Greg, could you tell us what manufacturer made yours? Every one I've looked at has a British Standard Pipe fitting or NTP, & I'll be chasing adaptors. My dipstick is stainless with a temp. gauge as handle.

Does the gauge have to be able to take a certain heat range itself -or does the oil cool off enough in the pipe not to have to worry?

Normally I'd cautiously filter, but it was a demo & we wanted to stay together (so few of us)... MAG (Motorcycle Action Group) Cymru Ride on Driving Standards Agency