bento Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 man i hate that groan. does guzzi offer a repair for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Am I the only one that has fixed the groan by cleaning and lubing? (Do NOT overlube or you will DIE) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Dunno, haven't had mine apart yet, but was planning to inspect it when I had the rear wheel off to check the lubrication issue on the splines and cush-drive, and to strip the paint off of the edge. Why don't you post a step-by-step on what parts you focused on cleaning and lubricating? That might be very helpful al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 Why don't you post a step-by-step on what parts you focused on cleaning and lubricating? That might be very helpful What I do for the rear brake is the following: 1 Remove the caliper 2 Remove the pads 3 Wedge something between the pistons to keep them from moving outward. 4 Clean the caliper especially around the pistons. This method should allow almost no possibilty of silicone getting on brake pads or rotors. I am not sure what the best cleaner is. Brake cleaner may be too harsh for the seals, so what I do is spray silicone around the piston seal area, and clean that area. Doing a process of clean, push piston out, clean, then push pistons all the way in, seems to work. And then I clean the rest of the caliper with brake cleaner. When getting close to piston seal area, I use a brake cleaner saturated rag so as not to wash the silicone from the seals. 5 keeping the calipers unmounted and pistons blocked apart, bleed brake. Holding the caliper up high can help get air toward the bleed outlet. 6 clean brake fluid off and reassemble. Make sure you did not get silicone anywhere hazardous like on the tire. 7 be sure to pump brake to build back pressure before riding off, and then do some test brakings. Here is an article on bleeding brakes with a vacuum pump http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tec...ycle-brakes.htm And the best article that I have read on how to brake. My only nit picks are that in point two, they fail to consider braking in turns, and also they don't cover using avoidance rather than fully relying on braking. http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-Saf...raking-tips.htm And most importantly, the reason I found this old thread, was that I got a pair of 999 calipers off eBay for about $250 (about half the new price) I don't really notice them being more powerful, but they do seem to have better feel. The move also gave me an opportunity to add longer brake lines. I used a pair of Galfer lines made for a Suzuki SV 650. These lines will NOT work for the V11calipers. It was tricky setting them up so they would not twist and stress the lines, and I needed to use extra washers to make the fittings fit. Next step, some better rotors, or maybe radial master cylinders. I'll make a silk purse out of this sow's ear even if I have to live on rice and beans! Actually I think it is half way there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 Next step, some better rotors, or maybe radial master cylinders. Radial master cylinders? Wot's that? Enquiring minds (well, you know) EDIT: I just looked it up. Now I've gotta ask: Why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted April 7, 2007 Author Share Posted April 7, 2007 david, what pads are in them? I have Brembo tt2172hh or 07.7855.10 in them, and these bite fine. I think they are the original rsv factory pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 Now I've gotta ask: Why? The 'radial' design allows a larger bore to the piston permitting a shorter stroke by the lever. I know that Brembo lists several combinations of bore and stroke for their radial master cylinders but most of them are for racing applications and the variation is to suit different riders needs. The other reason why? Perhaps they are cool and trendy . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 . . .Perhaps they are cool and trendy . Ah, now THAT part makes perfect sense. Thanks, Heli-Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballacraine Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 Well, I have to admit I upgraded to a radial master cylinder. I will try and give a word picture of the benefit...... The piston actuation on a 'normal' front master cylinder has a rotary action. It pivots and the end of the lever actuataes the piston 90 degrees from the direction of pull. A radial Master cylinder has a threaded plunger which is on the other side (right) of the lever pivot. When the lever is pulled the piston is displaced in the same plane as the lever movement. Perversely, it gives a linear action compared to the 'normal' radial pivoting action of the lever operation. I hope that makes some seinse. I have to admit, it has improved feel and power on the Scura. Nige. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossoandy Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 Well, I have to admit I upgraded to a radial master cylinder. I will try and give a word picture of the benefit...... The piston actuation on a 'normal' front master cylinder has a rotary action. It pivots and the end of the lever actuataes the piston 90 degrees from the direction of pull. A radial Master cylinder has a threaded plunger which is on the other side (right) of the lever pivot. When the lever is pulled the piston is displaced in the same plane as the lever movement. Perversely, it gives a linear action compared to the 'normal' radial pivoting action of the lever operation. I hope that makes some seinse. I have to admit, it has improved feel and power on the Scura. Nige. might see you soon nig...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballacraine Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 might see you soon nig...... I will look forward to that, Andy Drop me a PM or e-mither before you come over then. Nige. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 . . .Perversely, it gives a linear action compared to the 'normal' radial pivoting action of the lever operation. I hope that makes some seinse. . . .Nige. Cool, trendy and perverse? Well, I reckon things often fit together exactly this way these days. . . . Not havin' a go, Nige. Just a little early Saturday evening joviality. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 Radial brakes are way more than trendy. They work. Do you need them? How fast do you drive, and what tires do you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 david, what pads are in them? I have Brembo tt2172hh or 07.7855.10 in them, and these bite fine. I think they are the original rsv factory pads. They are the same, Brembo tt2172hh. They came with the calipers off eBay, and were kind of dirty, perhaps greasy. I cleaned them well but grease may have saturated. They seem to be getting better with each ride. I only have about 40 miles on them so far. So, I may be judging them a bit early, but the feel is better, and that is more important than stopping power for me with Pirelli Strada tires and not Sport tires. The rust has not even worn off the rotors from the 8 weeks of sitting in the garage waiting for the parts from Guzzi that still are not here for my old Brembos. I figured it made more sense to pay $250 for Brakes and $80 for new brake lines now, and ride then wait another umpteen days or weeks for the brake parts to show or not. So, why did I need parts for the reliable Brembos? A word to the wiser, don't be like me and try to recycle the cotter pins ....SAFETY WIRE in your retainer pins!!!!! The old Brembos will be up for sale after the retainer pins and plate get here. Radial brakes are way more than trendy. They work. Do you need them? How fast do you drive, and what tires do you use? The old brakes are more powerful than my sport touring tires can grip. Better feel is what I am after. The 'radial' design allows a larger bore to the piston permitting a shorter stroke by the lever. I know that Brembo lists several combinations of bore and stroke for their radial master cylinders but most of them are for racing applications and the variation is to suit different riders needs. The other reason why? Perhaps they are cool and trendy . Thanks for the info. I may need to look for a kind of small bore. I like the style of the 999 master cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballacraine Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 Cool, trendy and perverse? Well, I reckon things often fit together exactly this way these days. . . . Not havin' a go, Nige. Just a little early Saturday evening joviality. . . Aye, that is often the way of things. Seriously though, after serving time on a T500 Suzuki, I vowed I would never have an under braked motorcycle again.............. If you never had the pleasure, I can tell you retardation had to be commenced as an obstacle hove into view appearing on the horizon!! Not so much a brake light at the back...More of 'I am trying to stop...Honest!' lamp! Besides I wanted to put the Scura front master cylinder on the Spag. Wes. for the dual disc upgrade! Nige. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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