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Brake upgrading


Paul Minnaert

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I found out that the brakes that are mounted on the 999 and -r type bikes are not expensive at all. They look not very much different, but inside each piston has it's own brake pad. So there are 4 pads in each. That works a lot better, i'm told:-)

 

Upgrading is made easy by Ducati, the have a "ducati performance"catalog, and there are a pair of these calipers, with a new brake line, and pads. Toghether for ONLY 346 euro!

 

These parts are a bolt on replacement for the v11. I did also change the disks to floating brembo's. Came from a 748R duc. THEy don't fit, if you want these disks, buy the rsv-r disks. They fit.

 

The big picture

 

pvm5_small.jpg

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The Brembo 4 pad calipers bolt right on but you will need different lines going to them. The Brembo gold calipers lines bolt up at a different angle. I had a pair of 4 pad calipers and had problems finding a company that would make new brake lines for me. I heard that they do preform well! :thumbsup:

 

Mike

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How do the full-floating disks differ from what comes stock on the V11? What's the advantage, other than they are noisier :lol:

 

BTW, anyone have a source for a floating rear disk? That might help with our rear disk warp/groan problem.

 

al

 

P.S.

 

You have closer and clearer shot of the calipers Paul?

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Do you think the rear brake components are susceptible to heat soaking from proximity to the exhaust contributing to fluid expansion and brake dragging ( leading to premature pad wear, rotor heat and left side bearing failure)??

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...could be :huh2: It's been suggested before.

 

I actually just thought about that today while I was up under the bike installing the new crossover and looked at the rear brake-line as it traversed the swingarm <_>

 

 

Who knows though. I guess one could heat-shield the line, but I'm hoping the new Jet-Hot treatment I've got on the crossover and am going to get on the exhaust-can headers will reduce temps quite a bit in that area.

 

I've checked my rear rotor several times, and although it's been warm a few times.... it's never been "hot" as if it were really dragging or getting hot enough to damage a bearing for example.... dunno though...

 

I'm thinking a floating rear disc might relieve a lot of these issues to some degree though... :huh2:

 

al

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I think cleaning around the pistons may also help.

I replaced my last set of pads (ebc I think?) with a set of Galfers.

After cleaning the pistons with silicone spray the rear brake has been flawless.

(Don't get the silicone on the disk or the pads. Spray silicone on rag, and wipe piston clean, bleed brakes)

Of course the bleeding or the new pads could have improved things, too.

 

FWIW Guzzitech has a great article on Brembo upgrades.

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If floating disks are quiet, has to do with the way they are floating. My brembos have a sping ring at each floater, that makes they are not loose. Advantage of these disks is, they have an aluminium center, are 4,5mm thick and have a narrow track ring, so they are lighter. These disks don't fit with original calipers, because the floating rings are more outside, running against original calipers.

Mike: brake line came with it in the kit.

I'm busy with the rear also, got a 190mm braking wave disk, now puzzeling with a special caliper.

for Al a close shot:

pvmbrembo2.jpg

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What about these Wave lock discs ,see attached picture, though i hear they are quiet expensive.

I had a set of Galfer wave rotors on my 00 V11 Sport and after 3000 miles they were toast. :moon: The brake pulsation was very bad and made coming to a smooth stop impossible. I sent them back to Galfer the first time and they measured the rotors and put in looser race buttons to take care of the problem. I reinstalled them and took a quick ride and the pulsation was still there. Called Galfer back up and after a short discussion on how to measure rotor thickness, he refunded all my money back. :thumbsup: One thing I can say is that he backs up his product. :thumbsup: Reinstalled the factory rotors and have no pulsation! :homer:

 

Mike

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Carl, I asked this before ( I'm puzzled):

 

I've a friend with an 1100Sport. The brake, line, lever, caliper all look the same. But the lever appears to spring away from the master cylinder. What gives? Is there a spring in the mechanism of the 1100S that is not on the V11S? :huh2:

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They're the same, so it probably comes down to tighter tolerances on the pivot for the later models. The only spring action is that of the master cylinder - and that isn't much. My V11 Sport rear brake pedal tended to stay down. After I cleaned and lubed the pivot point (while replacing the brake lever after my accident, which BTW, left a really clear brake lever bruise on my foot before it broke off. Very clear... ouch) and now the lever returns to the appropriate position rather nicely. Take it apart and clean it periodically, it's subject to all of the weather elements.

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