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V11 idle speed adjustment


motowarren

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I just got a 01 Rosso Mandello and the idle speed is a little too low. It runs fine other than that so I don't want to screw something up. If I remember correctly the obvious way can mess up the syncronization. So which is the right way?

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if only one side idle stop screw is touching, you can turn that screw in a bit to raise the idle..,Do not turn the white knob on the long threaded rod (left side),that controls the butterflies and will get you out of sync.. this knob is used to balance the butterflies above idle, with a vacuum tool..

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if only one side idle stop screw is touching, you can turn that screw in a bit to raise the idle..,Do not turn the white knob on the long threaded rod (left side),that controls the butterflies and will get you out of sync.. this knob is used to balance the butterflies above idle, with a vacuum tool..

 

Both side seem to be against the stops equally. So should I turn them both in, say an 1/8th of a turn at a time until I get the desired speed when warm?

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Hi

 

Just a thought what condition is the air filter might need replacing? A chocked up air filter will drop the idle speed.

 

Idle speed dropping is also the 1st sign of time to adjust the valves... :luigi:

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Hello,

 

Many here either back off or remove the idle adjustment screw on the right side throttle body and only use the left side idle screw for idle adjustment. This is because there's play in the ball end connection of the rod that links the two throttle bodies. The throttle return spring on the right side TB will remove all of that play as long as the right side idle screw isn't making contact with the throttle cam.

 

Hope this helps...

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Hello,

 

Many here either back off or remove the idle adjustment screw on the right side throttle body and only use the left side idle screw for idle adjustment. This is because there's play in the ball end connection of the rod that links the two throttle bodies. The throttle return spring on the right side TB will remove all of that play as long as the right side idle screw isn't making contact with the throttle cam.

 

Hope this helps...

That sounds like good logic to me. I'll try that along with checking air filter and valve adjustment. Thanks to everybody

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Hi

 

Just a thought what condition is the air filter might need replacing? A chocked up air filter will drop the idle speed.

 

Idle speed dropping is also the 1st sign of time to adjust the valves... :luigi:

 

I just replaced my air filter and the idle speed dropped a bit, so clogged air filter, I think not necessarily. Oh and I did my valve clearances recently. They say do them cold - it was minus 6C. Now mine's occasionally bogging and stopping at tickover when I stop at lights or at a junction after an open run. Around town it's fine.

 

That's why I'm reading this topic.

 

A

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if only one side idle stop screw is touching, you can turn that screw in a bit to raise the idle..,Do not turn the white knob on the long threaded rod (left side),that controls the butterflies and will get you out of sync.. this knob is used to balance the butterflies above idle, with a vacuum tool..

 

Both side seem to be against the stops equally. So should I turn them both in, say an 1/8th of a turn at a time until I get the desired speed when warm?

 

no, back out the right screw, if idle is too low then turn the left TB screw in to raise idle. If you have a sync tool you can use the air by-pass screws.. if you mess with them with out a twinmax or vacuum gauge you'll get out of balance/sync (at idle).

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Hi

 

Just a thought what condition is the air filter might need replacing? A chocked up air filter will drop the idle speed.

 

Idle speed dropping is also the 1st sign of time to adjust the valves... :luigi:

 

I just replaced my air filter and the idle speed dropped a bit, so clogged air filter, I think not necessarily. Oh and I did my valve clearances recently. They say do them cold - it was minus 6C. Now mine's occasionally bogging and stopping at tickover when I stop at lights or at a junction after an open run. Around town it's fine.

 

That's why I'm reading this topic.

 

A

 

That's why I want to set mine up a little. Mine stalled at an intersection while I was waiting for oncoming traffic so I could turn and it can be quite dangerous.

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I just replaced my air filter and the idle speed dropped a bit, so clogged air filter, I think not necessarily. Oh and I did my valve clearances recently. They say do them cold - it was minus 6C. Now mine's occasionally bogging and stopping at tickover when I stop at lights or at a junction after an open run. Around town it's fine.

 

That's why I'm reading this topic.

 

A

 

That's why I want to set mine up a little. Mine stalled at an intersection while I was waiting for oncoming traffic so I could turn and it can be quite dangerous.

 

I seem to have found the cause of the bogging and stopping problem - I discovered that the RH silencer wasn't properly tightened on the crossover after the missus said I had a rattle on that side during a run. I tightened up and it's behaving so much better now. Hasn't cut out once.

 

So you might check your exhaust system for leaks I guess if stalling's a problem (exhaust gasket ring, clamps on crossover etc.). Just a thought. :2c:

AndyH

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I seem to have found the cause of the bogging and stopping problem - I discovered that the RH silencer wasn't properly tightened on the crossover after the missus said I had a rattle on that side during a run. I tightened up and it's behaving so much better now. Hasn't cut out once.

 

So you might check your exhaust system for leaks I guess if stalling's a problem (exhaust gasket ring, clamps on crossover etc.). Just a thought. :2c:

AndyH

 

I never realized that an exhaust leak like that would cause a drivability problem. But then I learned recently on another forum I'm on that a Morini with a loose rubber between the carb and the air filter can cause irratic running. Never too old to learn

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