JBBenson Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Having followed these directions: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8985&page=3 The upper sump is not coming off. The outer sump housing/"ring" is loose, but cannot be removed as there are the two oil feed lines at the front. Is the sump peripheral "ring" and the plumbing one unit? They seem to be 2, connected only by the oil lines exiting at the front. I have removed the 4 bolts holding all of the plumbing but it will not move and I am hesitant to hit it with a rubber mallet. Does the filter have to be installed for the upper sump to be removed? This doesn't really make sense to me, but asking. I have removed mine already. Any advice? j. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Disconnect the oil lines at the front. They will swing forward. The "plumbing" (which includes oil filter connection and pressure relief valve) can be removed separately - and if I recall correctly, it can also come out with the upper ring. When you remove the plumbing, there will be two small metal pipes (they look like little dumbbell weights) with O-rings that go between the plumbing and the upper sump ring - where the oil lines come in. You can remove this with or without the oil filter. It may have bonded to the gasket, or someone in past may have used some type of adhesive (which is not needed). A little tapping with a soft mallet will be OK - but first run your finger around the upper ring to make sure you have all the bolts out. If you tap the plumbing from the front, toward the rear, it will free itself from the O-rings. Or you can just tap the upper ring downward. Consider putting something underneath to catch it in case it lets loose all at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBBenson Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Scud saves the day. I was ready to bolt the whole thing back together and try another day. The tapping from the front, toward the rear was a good idea, because it is in line with little metal pipes exiting the sump. It came loose with a couple of taps. Someone had put a lot of red gasket glue everywhere, it was a real mess, and took a while to carefully remove it all with a razor blade. Now its all back together. The resizing of the smaller kickstand mounting bolt was a struggle too. I had to grind a lot of material away, more than I figured. Well, its finally done. The oil light flickered for a few seconds on startup, then it went out. Success. That plate was sitting around too long. Thanks for the tip. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Glad to hear it worked out. I noticed you posted elsewhere that it's not a 30-minute job. Well, it might be a 30-minute job for someone who's done it before, and if there is no gasket glue. Removing that damn glue adds a lot of time. Now you can whack the throttle open with reckless abandon while you ascend steep mountain passes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBBenson Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Now you can whack the throttle open with reckless abandon while you ascend steep mountain passes. And I did just that: Los Angeles 134>210>57>60>10>243>74>111>Indian Wells. Climbed to 6000 in a spirited manner, racing through Idyllwild, where there was still snow on the ground (keeping an eye out for black ice), and then back down to the Coachella Valley floor. I like when the bike is loaded with luggage and is splattered with bugs, brake dust and mud. I especially like to park it next to spotless BMW GS's that are lovingly polished by their proud owners, who are usually wearing spotless "touring" outfits. They look at my filthy Sport and hang their heads in shame. I never had an oil light flicker before the install, but it is good to know I have that extra level of protection against oil starvation. Like the pawl spring fix, It is one less thing to worry about. The more it runs the better it gets. Next up, LA>SFO. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 243!!!!! One the best ascents around. When are you doing LA>SFO? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBBenson Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 243!!!!! One the best ascents around. When are you doing LA>SFO? Maybe as soon as next week, depending on job stuff. If it would work out, would be great to have company. I was planning on Los Angeles>101N>33N>198W>25N>101N>Burlingame, but the 33 above Maricopa looks a little iffy. I might just do the 101 the entire way, not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 The 33 North of Maricopa is not fun. I remember thinking "this place is shit." -- then the next sign was for "Brown Material Road." True story, true street name. 33N>58W (fabulous small mountain pass) >some minor roads (La Panza and Creston) NW to Paso Robles>101N>exit at King city to join 25N (but you better fill up in King City) per your plan above. I can't join any time in the next month. Another time though. This is expert-level thread-drift by us!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I find mine only loses oil pressure if I let the level drop below normal. I have a plate but hate to obstruct the view from below. JBBs ascent has me right envious, oh well I'll just have to be content with a month in NZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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