clutch lever broke

[Guest slowpoke]

Another one of those embarassing moments when you have to let the bike go over gracefully and it broke the clutch lever like it was plastic-which probably wouldn't have broken so easily. I know MPH cycle has the brake lever which is billet which I have already replaced. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement that is not OEM and built to last? Thanks

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

I don't know of any other than the CRG that MPH sales . The OEM is the same as Ducati, which might be cheaper You're just going to have to quit drooping your bike Buy the CRG clutch lever so they match & don't forget the poser value this adds

[al_roethlisberger]

... heh But all kidding aside ... keep in mind that our levers are by Brembo, not Guzzi, and the same as they supply to several other makes of motorcycles.

 

And they are intentionally designed to break, not just bend, thus saving your bars and other bits from damage

 

Sorry to hear about your tip-over though

 

Go get some new ones from Ducati. They're much cheaper

 

al

[Guest Brian Robson]

Al, how does the clutch lever breaking protect your bars?

They are chiselled to break off at the tip so you have a workable lever to get you home.

And while we are on the subject does anyone know of a company making crash bungs for a Moto Guzzi?

[al_roethlisberger]

Well, ideally, by designing the lever to bend/break at a prescribed location, the engineers are providing for at least two favorable outcomes.

 

1) By allowing for them to bend, this protects the bars, switchgear, master-cylinder, etc... from themselves getting damaged as likely. If the lever were designed to be super stout and not break/bend, then all the energy from an unfortunately perfect end-on strike would be transfered directly to those aforementioned components, to disasterous and probably ride-ending effect.

 

2) By designing the lever to more often break at the "cutout" near the tip of the lever, this helps fulfill #1 above, but also increases the chance that along with still functional bar components, you might even be lucky enough to still have a "nub" of lever left with which to still be able to actuate the clutch/brake

 

Of course, in many cases, even with the "cutout" designed into most levers, they can often still break at the pivot since the metal is so thin there. And in fact, many people I've known to have hit a lever hard enough to just bend(not even break) it, have ended up having the lever just "fall off" later from cracking at the pivot.

 

So the moral? ...if you really whack a lever, enough to bend/break it, replace it ASAP, for safety's sake

 

al

[Guest Brian Robson]

Sorry Al, but you are using the words "break" and "bend" as though they have the same meaning.

If it breaks it doesn't protect anything, it just allows you to use the clutch lever, chances are the bar is stronger and will protect other equipment. When I have fallen off and the bike was equipped with a quality lever, there was a well usable clutch lever left.

The simple difference is that one lever is cheap and the other is not.

[al_roethlisberger]

Hrmm, maybe I didn't make myself clear...

 

If it breaks at the cutout, it does protect the whole assembly and the lever itself by dissipating the energy of the strike, as WELL AS leaving a nub(shorter lever) behind so you can still get down the street back home.

 

This is the typical design of most street levers.

 

If it bends, the result is the same.

 

And in either case, the lever should be replaced ASAP.

 

 

But design and best intentions aside, many levers will still break at the pivot, as that's just a weak spot. I'm sure some "better" levers may fare better with regard to bending further before breaking anywhere, but regardless, if I bent any lever.... it would get replaced for safety's sake.

 

So the end result is the same, the cost of a new lever.... and that's my point.

 

 

So indeed, I use bend/break interchangeably, as the reslult as designed is the same.... preserved ability to ride away, but one still has to buy a new lever ASAP.

 

I understand that perhaps your point may be that a "better" lever might survive a crash better, bend instead, and not break at all at the pivot as often... keeping the bike rideable... getting you home, and that may be true

 

But again, with the material used, and the cutout in the end, our OEM levers are designed to snap off near the tip, for the very reason of preserving the pivot and providing a limp-home ability as well.

 

In either case, both levers should normally provide the same "limp home" ability.... but crashes are dynamic and variable affairs, so no guarantees can be made no matter what lever is used.

 

Depending on luck, a cheapo lever(which our OEM is not BTW) may survive better than an expensive lever in a given crash, or of course vice-versa.

 

Even with a "higher quality" lever.... it should be replaced ASAP as it's integrity is compromised once bent or broken.

 

 

I suppose, if I had the $$ and desire, I would opt for a "better" lever that more than likely would bend before breaking.... but I just wanted to make it clear that there's really nothing wrong with the Brembo levers our bikes come with, and BTW also come on some pricey Ducatis, and other makes.

 

Like fin guards, pegs, and other "breakaway" stick out bits.... these parts are often really designed to be replaced as "disposable" and "single use" if crashed

 

al

[Guest slowpoke]

Al, unfortunately the lever broke too far back to be useful. Luckily, I was in second gear so I could get the bike home. Actually, here's the scenario: I pull up to a gas pump and stop and thought I had the bike in neutral but it was in 2nd and it popped forward just a bit and I was off balance and the bike started to go over and I just could not hold it without letting it down very slowly to a rest on it's side. And voila' the clutch lever snapped. I couldn't believe it! So, my question is; what model of Ducati has a suitable lever and any part numbers out there? You say it's made by Brembo has anyone replaced it and where did they get it? Thanks

[edge]

I recently picked up two off ebay, sold as Ducati levers. One was Ducati OEM in grey (996) and the other was a Lockart Philips aftermaket in a daker grey (almost black). I painted the LP one black and size, fit, and function are perfect. I did swap the the gold tone brembo adjuster to keep it as close to OEM as possible. Paid about 20 bucks for each lever vs. the MG price for a lever is $108.54 (MGNA is on the pipe! )

 

As others mentioned you are looking for Ducati or Brembro adjustable (Large-hole) clutch lever. I'm sure if you go into a Ducati dealer it will be much cheeper than MG.

[Guest Brian Robson]

I'm so sorry Al that I questioned you at all.

Is there ever a topic where the final word belongs with another person?

If not, please don't reply.

If there is, also please don't reply

[Guest slowpoke]

Unfortunately, I must of goofed in all the excitement. It's the foot gear shift lever not the hand lever.

[edge]

Ok... Well here's a pic of a break lever that I had welded. I was removing the back tire to clean/lube/inspect and during the removal, the bike shifted resulting in it slipping off the paddock stand The damage was a broken break lever and a turnsignal (my price of addmision to the dumb ass club that day was high ).

 

The weld is clean and stronger than the casting. It's not perfect but it came out better than I expected. I intentionally did not clean up the weld too much for fear of remove too much metal. I don't know what the cost of a new one is... but I was back up and running for 20 bucks, and 1 hour later. I assume your lever broke in a similar fassion meaning it might be repairable.

 

My lesson learned is; I now takes two people to remove my rear wheel, one to steady it on the stand and one to work the axel and splines. Simple insurance against another non moving garage accident

 

I'll eventially replace it with a new one for cosmentic purposes.. but in the mean time, it works, and it's my little reminder for safe maintenance.. Still don't know why it fell, but it won't happen again

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Send me your clutch lever and I will TIG weld it as good as new .Including reshaping and metalfinishing the weld area . I will also remill the factory cut that allows the lever to break at that point (hopefully) to allow a usable lever to remain (hopefully !!) I will, of course inspect the lever for other cracks or distortion that may render it not repairable (unlikely) . The levers are Magnesium alloy and are not at all malleable nor intended to be .

I have repaired quite a few levers with excellent results .

Photos if you like !

[al_roethlisberger]

I'm so sorry Al that I questioned you at all.   

Is there ever a topic where the final word belongs with another person?

If not, please don't reply.

If there is, also please don't reply  

 

 

.... heh, well, most often I try not to respond to trolls but

 

 

All I can say Brian is, "you asked"

 

Brian Robson Posted on 07 August 2004, 10:28

 

Al, how does the clutch lever breaking protect your bars?

 

Oh, and BTW, you "lost me" there at the end, but that's OK

 

 

 

 

 

 

Send me your clutch lever and I will TIG weld it as good as new

 

That's awesome Gary

 

[belfastguzzi]

I think that the hopeless part is the pivot/adjuster end that the brake/clutch lever fits into. It is so thin that it bends as soon as you look at it. I find it hard to imagine the lever itself breaking before that skinny stuff bends or snaps.

 

AL won't approve, but I have glued and bolted a broken one back together, without adjuster as I don't want that and it's just a point of weakness. I carry it as a spare for emegency use.