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fast-idle lever


beauchemin

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Guest ratchethack

After work, I rolled into the shop to do this infamous "spring swap" but ended up doing a hybrid of both ideas. I yanked off the fast idle spring and intended on swapping it with my seat release spring but when I got to taking the seat spring off, the crimped end on the seat release cable was more of a PITA than it looked so I did the manly thing and ripped that crappy spring the hell off of there with no regard to it's future in the world and stretched it out to a lovely curly fry shape LOL. I swapped the fast idle spring onto the seat release mechanism (lovely action now I might add) and dismantled a rare BIC retractable pen of company property to use the spring on the fast idle cable. All is well in Baltimore.

Rich, this is of little help to you now, but for the benefit of others who may be interested: Both springs may be easily "unscrewed" from their cables by opening up the ends of the springs slightly, inserting the cable, and twisting them off the cable. They can be re-installed the same way without disturbing the cable-ends. Total time investment -- both springs -- probably 2 minutes, tops. ;)

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Both springs may be easily "unscrewed" from their cables by opening up the ends of the springs slightly, inserting the cable, and twisting them off the cable.

 

I would put $100 on someone already messing with the spring on the seat release because there is no chance that spring could have been expanded enough by reverse twisting or modifying the end to allow it to thread over the cable end. It was like someone had crushed the spring with pliers or something. I wouldnt have reused it on the fast-idle cable even if I did thread it over the cable end... but I did think that was all i was going to do.

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...except for the 29 Wins, 40 Losses, Baltimore Orioles baseball team :lol:

 

You cant always blame a .325 batter for batting .240. Perlozzo was fired Monday morning. Lets see what someone else can do with this team. I'll admit, the O's arent in the best shape right now but they have potential still. Keep an eye on the NATIONALS in the next 2 years. Just wait to see what their budget allows them... they're going to buy the best players on the planet in the next 2 years.

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You cant always blame a .325 batter for batting .240. Perlozzo was fired Monday morning. Lets see what someone else can do with this team. I'll admit, the O's arent in the best shape right now but they have potential still. Keep an eye on the NATIONALS in the next 2 years. Just wait to see what their budget allows them... they're going to buy the best players on the planet in the next 2 years.

Sounds like a good strategy!

It has worked for the Atlanta Braves and New York Yankees, and maybe even San Diego.

We are still riding the wave of having a new stadium here....eventually we will slump again.

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am I missing something here this seems to be a baseball thread now

 

Don't mind, it's a bodgers' thread anyway. Probably step one for finding solutions for problems with italian bikes is the assumption that "Luigi" is dumb. That's so on every Italian Bikes forum, funny enough.

 

Besides the fact, that most of the assembly work was and is done by Gina, Sophia or Paola, that's just nonsens. So in this case, why do you fiddle with springs? Wouldn't it be a more natural approach if you opened the fast idle lever, find the slot in the friction disk, feed this slod with a bit of rubber, reassemble the whole thing "proudly where you live" and finally enjoy the now perfectly working fast idle lever, working as designed?

 

Hubert

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Wouldn't it be a more natural approach if you opened the fast idle lever, find the slot in the friction disk, feed this slod with a bit of rubber, reassemble the whole thing "proudly where you live" and finally enjoy the now perfectly working fast idle lever, working as designed?

 

So IS this the actual problem with the fast idle lever bouncing back from its full on position to about mid way and doing nothing for the idle? It does make simple sense that the tension spring at the cam which the cable attaches to is too high so putting a lower rate spring there made the lever work wonderfully. It has some tension so it wont just randomly position itself to fast idle but it allowed it to stay there if you position it yourself. Were you suggesting making the fast idle throttle lever stick on purpose? I dont follow. I'm interested. Please elaborate.

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Your addressing two problems. One is the bouncing lever, this can be solved the way I described above. Look also on the two pictures below:

 

drehzahlanhebunggummirc0.jpg

 

zbdrehzahlanhebungtv1.jpg

 

The other problem is solved by adjusting the moving bits below the throttle body. Use a mirror or get down on your knees to find this mechanism. Its selfexplaining, more or less.

 

Hubert

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  • 1 year later...

Full four pages of elaboration about how to prevent the fast idle lever from returning on its own while starting the engine.

 

And yet nobody mention one, even more important benefit of springs swap; it allows to have a poor man cruise control when under way and makes riding no hands on longer empty road stretches possible.

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I swapped the spring from the seat release with the fast idle spring. Now both work like they were supposed to.

+1 That is the way to fix 2 problems at the same time at zero cost!!

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So in this case, why do you fiddle with springs? Wouldn't it be a more natural approach if you opened the fast idle lever, find the slot in the friction disk, feed this slod with a bit of rubber, reassemble the whole thing "proudly where you live" and finally enjoy the now perfectly working fast idle lever, working as designed?

 

Hubert

 

You fiddle with the springs because they got mixed up in the factory, and the heavy seat latch spring got put on the TB end of the fast idle cable, preventing the fast idle lever from staying open with the built-in friction of the fast idle lever. The wimpy fast idle spring got put on the seat latch cable, so anyone can just pound the back of the seat & pop the darn thing off, taking your battery, tool kit, ECU or whatever else under the seat suits their fancy.

 

I thought I made this clear in my initial post about how I fixed my non-latching seat and non-idling fast idle lever by swapping the springs? Anyway, this is a problem that only afflicts certain bikes, and is quite easy to determine if yours is one of them by the simple expedient of noticing you must keep your hand on the fast idle lever or it immediately slips back (& the motor dies, when cold); if so, then a quick perusal of the relevant springs will immediately disclose which is heavier (stronger) - that one needs to be on the seat latch. Voila! End of troubles...

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You fiddle with the springs because they got mixed up in the factory, and the heavy seat latch spring got put on the TB end of the fast idle cable...

 

I don't think that they fiddle with springs and such things in a motorcycle factory nowadays. The seat parts are coming from company A, the complete idle lever comes from company B, the latch comes from C, the frame from D and so on. The worker takes what's delivered to the line and puts it onto the bike, that's all.

 

It should not be possible for a Guzzi worker to mix up only the springs. Maybe there are some bikes out there which have the seat actuator hanging at the left grip and the idle lever under the seat, but not with mixed up springs.

 

Anyway, as long as it works swapping springs is an easy task, that's right.

 

Hubert

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I just got a great chuckle out of picturing someone pulling the fast idle lever to pop the seat and needing a key in the seat latch to set the fast idle.

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I just got a great chuckle out of picturing someone pulling the fast idle lever to pop the seat and needing a key in the seat latch to set the fast idle.

:P yeah that's a more pure solution

 

Reminds me I heard of someone having to reverse the function of the kill switch on his Guzzi for electrical gremlin reasons. Great theft protection!

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