dlaing Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 I apologize for the thinnest possible reasoning. Sorry, so sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted February 6, 2005 Author Share Posted February 6, 2005 I too, am overdue for the same surgery, so let us know how it goes.My leak appears to be coming from the second case joint from the back and definitely not in the clutch housing Et tu Davus? Here's where mine was cracked. Before my accident. After that, there were a lot more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Ouch. I hope mine is not cracked. Mine started leaking after the recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted February 6, 2005 Author Share Posted February 6, 2005 Yeah a leaky seal is preferable. Guzzi castings are so poor that it takes a fantastically good welder to be able to heli-arc them. I didn't find one and finally wound up buying a new case. $618, not including the rear cover or gaskets etc. I've seen entire 6 speed transmissions on eBay for not much more than that. Next time, I'll just JB Weld the heck out of it and wait for total failure. Hopefully, there won't be a next time. With a little luck, yours won't be anything worse than a gasket, seal or a leaky sidecover fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 .... I think the pump has it's own internal regulator/sensor though and simply shuts off or idles down when max pressure is reached. I mean, according to the schematic, it gets 12V all of the time when the circuit is energized, but it only runs hard for two seconds when the system gets turned on, .... 42597[/snapback] The fuel pump and the coils are switched on and off solely by the ecu. It looks, as if pin 19 of the 15M is the one that triggers relais 46. And before doing any harm to you or your new powder coating: why don't you just ground the regulator via the cable that's meant exactly for that? One could start an other thrad here, but I find it a bit risky to damage an otherwise closed and waterproof powder coat. I saw frames, where under the nice red coat the metal more or less had partially vanished. A bit like cheap chinese outdoor furniture tend to do. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 I am a former Honda VFR owner, which bikes are known for their electrical problems, especially in terms of the charging systems. Apparently an ineffective ground-plane is thought to be responsible for the VFR's habit of devouring it's regulator/rectifier unit. A widely touted fix is the creation of a "wired ground tie" to electrically secure a common ground between all ground-points. This obviates the concerns for unanticipated chassis ground issues and only requires a few feet of wire and a few ground-lugs. It's an idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted February 6, 2005 Author Share Posted February 6, 2005 The fuel pump and the coils are switched on and off solely by the ecu. Yes, and it's a full 12 volts all of the time but the pump only runs hard for 2 seconds or so until the system is up to pressure. If it's always exactly two seconds, then I would guess there is an electronic timer. If it takes 2 seconds to pressurize our particular EFI plumbing, then I would guess there is a pressure reguator. If the pump ever has to be replaced, then curiosity will get the better of me and I'll take it apart the old one to see. There was a thread a long time ago on one of the forums about the fuel pump having some stuff internal to it to control it. I wish I had saved the results of that thread - they listed a number of suitable replacements for the pump. I'm going to ground the regulator both by a suitably heavy lead and a small bit of paint removal. A little silicone grease on the bare area after the bolt is in place should slow down the formation of rust. The powdercoat does not extend into threaded areas or mounting holes, so you can't absolutely guarantee total weather exclusion in any event. Normal cleaning and maintenance is still required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 If it's always exactly two seconds, then I would guess there is an electronic timer. If it takes 2 seconds to pressurize our particular EFI plumbing, then I would guess there is a pressure reguator. 42699[/snapback] I disconnected the regulator end of the fuel line and tried to pump out the gas tank. The pump ran for 2 seconds, expelling fuel, then quit. So, run-time is not simply a function of attaining system pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 Aha! Thank you Brian. Then it must be an internal timer. That puts an end to my "emergency gas pump" idea too. An experiment I'm never going to need to try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 internal timer in the ECU or the pump? Wouldn't it have to be in the ECU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmc5733946 Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 Carl, the fuel pump will only run when there is oil pressure, the running before start up is controlled by ECU. When ECU sees 0 psi it shuts down fuel pump relay. It has been thus since the first FI bikes, as I recall. BMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 So................. Since the oil pressure ennunciator is simply an idiot light and the oil-pressure sensor carries only 1 wire the sensor must "swith-to-ground" when there is pressure. Ergo. ground the wire to the oil pressure sender and the Fuel Pump should run. Will report on this tomorrow. By the way......... anyone know of a source of a small in-line fuel-pressure regulator calibrated to 300kPa or about 43.5 psi? (No way I can let this extra gallon of fuel sit untapped in the right side of the tank!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 Carl, the fuel pump will only run when there is oil pressure, the running before start up is controlled by ECU. When ECU sees 0 psi it shuts down fuel pump relay. It has been thus since the first FI bikes, as I recall.BMC 42728[/snapback] That sounds quite logical except... my oil pressure light is not working. The bike runs just fine. The fuel pump, injectors and coils share a common 12V fed by a relay controlled by the ECU. The oil pressure sensor only feeds a light on the instrument panel. No connection to the ECU. 1999 V11 Sport wiring diagram BTW, if you're trouble-shooting the ECU and you have the tank off and want to prevent gas from spewing all over the place, you can remove fuse #2 for the coils, injectors and fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 Carl, the fuel pump will only run when there is oil pressure, the running before start up is controlled by ECU. When ECU sees 0 psi it shuts down fuel pump relay. It has been thus since the first FI bikes, as I recall.BMC 42728[/snapback] The ECU does not see fuel pressure. Its a simple timer in the ECU. It is triggerred on power up and retriggered as the ECU sees engine pulses. As long as the engine is running the pump is energised. If the motor stops for some reason other than ignition or kill switch you will hear the pump run for a few more seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 There you have it. Thanks Cliff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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