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Choke Lever


hgravelpha@aol.com

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I have trouble with the choke lever staying at a setting. It seems to be tight and the only way it will stay at a setting is with my finger forcing it down. I tried to adjust it but the choke lever get too much play and as a result no gas to my injectors. I played with it for at least 30 minutes and stop because fuel was leaking from my throttle body. Any hints will be appreciated.

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Hmmm... I don't think there should be fuel leaking from the throttle body under any circumstances. The injection of fuel is controlled by the computer - the throttle or fast-idle (choke) lever don't directly control the fuel... the only control the butterfly valve in the throttle body. There is a sensor that measures the position of the butterfly, and relays this to the computer, which then determines how much fuel to deliver. If the bike is turned off (which I'm assuming it was) and you still have fuel dripping out, then you might have a bigger problem. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong!

 

As for your question about the fast-idle (choke) lever: you may have to remove the left grip and disect the lever to see what's going on. Some folks have reported that they've improved the feel of the lever by replacing or modifying a spring that is inside of it. The odd thing is that both my Ducati and Guzzi have the same exact lever system, but the Ducati is very easy to move, and the Guzzi is relatively difficult.

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I also had this problem, and corrected it by bonding a strip of copper wire to the outside edge of the actuator, and by replacing the return spring with one that takes less force to compress than the original spring. My choke/fast-idle lever slides easily now, and stays in whatever position I put it in.

 

Here's a picture that I just took (see the next post). (Jaap, sorry, but I had to go beyond the 500-pixel width recommendation.) At the tip of my finger is the copper wire that extends the actuator's reach by bridging the gap between it and the roller (to the left). I also filed down the leading edge of the wire to smoothe out the transition where the wire and the roller make initial contact. To the right is the spring I replaced.

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:stupid: I don't know what happened to the picture that I attached to my previous post. I edited that post to try again to attach the picture, but I didn't see any way to do this, so I'll try again here.

 

(Update: I see that it worked this time. Jaap, it seems that doing a 'preview post' causes picture attachments to be lost. Or was it me?)

post-5-1044050412_thumb.jpg

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Great photo Brent!

On mine it had the return spring from hell. Belonged in an animal trap! I substituted a spring from a ball point pen, made sure the mechanism was well adjusted, and it's worked just fine ever since.

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OK... I guess I was mistaken earlier when I spoke of disecting the actual lever assembly. :doh:

 

It's been a while since I've had my controls pulled apart, so I'm a bit foggy...

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  • 2 years later...
Guest ckamin

An easy swap is the return spring on the choke assembly (at the throttle body) and the spring in the rear tail that is on the cable for the key-actuated seat release. Just swap the two and the choke will work like it should! Takes all of 10 minutes.

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