rossojoj Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 hi all, been doing a little riding recently with the 'indian summer' over here in Germany. I have an oil leak on the right cyl head/cover gasket. Judging by other posts this does not seem that rare on a V11? It started probably about 6000km and has been getting worse each ride. Are there any other spots I should get the dealer to check for leaks etc. when its in for the repair? I presume this is covered by warranty (new July 2004). I think the oil on the right plug is causing a misfire which has increased fuel consumption somewhat. Any long-term effects this might have apart from this? Oil level seems fine so its just a few drips now and again really. Otherwise its just great to be back on the MG after a summer touring the Alps on my Triumph Sprint ST (which is being sold in the spring for many reasons!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Johnathan, I'd relax and continue to enjoy what has to be one of the best seasons for riding in Germany! A tiny leak at the valve cover shouldn't cramp your style whatsoever unless it's creating a cosmetic problem for you, or unless it causes you to have to add more oil than you want to add between oil changes. I'd just wipe it away now & then and forget it. Generally speaking, oil has to be pretty heavily present inside the combusion chamber to cause a misfire due to plug fouling. If this is the case, you've got a chronic engine problem (broken rings, holed piston, etc.). From your post, there'd be no reason to suspect this because it'd more'n likely also be running ratty and smoking like a Spad going down over Flanders... Many don't use any sealant at all on valve cover gaskets and just put up with a little seepage. This is such a common, minor thing that I don't even think of it as a "repair". (WARNING - controversy ahead!) I use silicone sealant very sparingly on vc gaskets and seldom get any seepage. If you're concerned about it and handy with such things, you could try a little sealant (very sparingly applied, just enough to make the gasket "tacky") on a new or renewed valve cover gasket and spotlessly cleaned mating surfaces free of oil, and this should take care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballacraine Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Yep..I agree with ratchet... Bash on don't worry... If it troubles you a smear of clear silicone will do the trick. Nige. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Replacing a rocker cover gasket costs about three euros for the gasket, (Maximum.) and about three minutes a side. Remove the eight 6mm allen bolts that hold the cover and rocker protector bar on tap it lightly to loosen the cover, lift off, remove old gasket, apply grease sparingly to new gasket, place on head, replace cover, reattatch cover and RP bar with eight bolts, go ride. I never use sealant on RC gaskets as it only tends to make 'em rip when the cover is removed and usually you can re-use 'em several times. I would advise fixing it though. Dirty/oily cylinder head fins can't dump waste heat nearly as effectively as clean ones and besides looking ugly it can promote overheating of the head and exhaust valve. While this is more of an issue on smallblocks which will shed their exhaust valve heads at the slightest provocation it's not a good principle to allow any air cooled motor to get oily on the outside. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossojoj Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 Replacing a rocker cover gasket costs about three euros for the gasket, (Maximum.) and about three minutes a side. Remove the eight 6mm allen bolts that hold the cover and rocker protector bar on tap it lightly to loosen the cover, lift off, remove old gasket, apply grease sparingly to new gasket, place on head, replace cover, reattatch cover and RP bar with eight bolts, go ride. I never use sealant on RC gaskets as it only tends to make 'em rip when the cover is removed and usually you can re-use 'em several times. I would advise fixing it though. Dirty/oily cylinder head fins can't dump waste heat nearly as effectively as clean ones and besides looking ugly it can promote overheating of the head and exhaust valve. While this is more of an issue on smallblocks which will shed their exhaust valve heads at the slightest provocation it's not a good principle to allow any air cooled motor to get oily on the outside. Pete 62707[/snapback] Thanks to all for the feedback. I shared the view that it seems a pretty normal part of owning a Guzzi , and its certainly nothing serious. It has made a mess of the fins on the right-hand cylinder and given the summer temperatures we can see here (or farther south where I tend to go touring) the over-heating issue could be bad news. I will see how it goes with removing/cleaning/ retorqueing the existing gasket and if that doesn't work try a new one. I'm not being cheap but its quite a trek to the dealer and unless he throws in a Griso test-ride not really worth the trip for 10 mins work! I will try it without any sealant on the gasket as suggested. thanks again. Jonathan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I don't like to use sealants on the valve covers, because they just come back off on a regular basis. A dab of motor oil (convienently located on top of the cylider) seals it up nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbdicker Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Replacing a rocker cover gasket costs about three euros for the gasket, (Maximum.) and about three minutes a side. Remove the eight 6mm allen bolts that hold the cover and rocker protector bar on tap it lightly to loosen the cover, lift off, remove old gasket, apply grease sparingly to new gasket, place on head, replace cover, reattatch cover and RP bar with eight bolts, go ride. I never use sealant on RC gaskets as it only tends to make 'em rip when the cover is removed and usually you can re-use 'em several times. I would advise fixing it though. Dirty/oily cylinder head fins can't dump waste heat nearly as effectively as clean ones and besides looking ugly it can promote overheating of the head and exhaust valve. While this is more of an issue on smallblocks which will shed their exhaust valve heads at the slightest provocation it's not a good principle to allow any air cooled motor to get oily on the outside. Pete 62707[/snapback] Pete (as always) is exactly right. Had the same issue, is a 5 minute fix. Those gaskets have a tendency to fail - they're pretty thin - can look like a whole lot worse problem than it is. (perpetually dirty boots!!). While you're there, replace the valve cover guards with something that might actually WORK should your bike go over........plenty of options out there for that. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I keep spare valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets in stock. With frequent oil change and valve adjustment I know eventually I'll need one and I will be very happy to find it in its drawer when I do need it. Murphy dictates that when I tear one it will be two days before the dealer opens... Rj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admin Jaap Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 it's not a good principle to allow any air cooled motor to get oily on the outside. Finally the truth behind the decay of the British motorcycle industry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Barrett Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I keep spare valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets in stock. With frequent oil change and valve adjustment I know eventually I'll need one and I will be very happy to find it in its drawer when I do need it. Murphy dictates that when I tear one it will be two days before the dealer opens... Rj 62917[/snapback] I'm with Ryan on this. I purchased mine to ensure that the existing ones remain reusable. And I'm going to heed Dan's advice about the guards. I was lucky not to do any damage when she fell over. One of the chaps at the MGC GB branch was knocked/fell from his Sporti this last month, which led to a bit of a discussion re the guards, the problem with the standard ones are that the countersunk holes form a sheer line for it to bend about. So ws advised to look for some with a bit more meat there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballacraine Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 I take it these guards are or should be designed to be sacrificial anyway. My old S3 had a fine (standard) stout chrome crash bar mounted on the front downtube. Actually they were quite good looking, but had I had the misfortune to use them I suspect that ,whilst the engine would have been well guarded, it would likely have trashed the frame. Something has to give to absorb the impact. Is there an accepted type that performs best, or is it all a matter of surmising and conjecture? Nige. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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