Guest jmnvhc Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Hi all, I have an '04 Ballabio, and was recently thinking about a skunk works project of changing the face of the speedo and tach, but I hit a snag. When I removed the tach, I discovered that there are no fasteners that hold it together, so it looks like it's all pressed together (the gray ring at the top to the white base). I tried to pry off the gray ring, but it only chipped the plastic. Has anyone disassembled these later model instruments, and is it possible to do so without damaging them? Any help greatly appreciated, Thanks, Jose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redguzziv10 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 IMHO opinion it is not possible to remove the glass and bezel without damaging them. i tried to replace the glasses on my V10 last year. At best you will only scratch the casing and bezels, in my case both the glasses cracked as well. The good news is that i got a dozen spare bezels and glasses from somewhere in Canada last year, only came to a couple of £ each, including shipping. (sorry, sold the unused ones on Ebay) the new bezels can be crimped by hand, with the blunt end of a spoon, a lot of patience, and much throwing of tools around the garage, but i'd recommend looking to someone with a crimping/pressing lathe of some sort as the finished item wasn't all that brilliant. BTW the bezel diameter is 82mm overall and i understand is quite commonly available, fits older Guzzi's as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jmnvhc Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 That's useful to know. I guess the important thing is is that the white base doesn't get damaged, so how did you remove the bezel with out ruining the base? That hard plastic can crack pretty easily... Thanks. IMHO opinion it is not possible to remove the glass and bezel without damaging them.i tried to replace the glasses on my V10 last year. At best you will only scratch the casing and bezels, in my case both the glasses cracked as well. The good news is that i got a dozen spare bezels and glasses from somewhere in Canada last year, only came to a couple of £ each, including shipping. (sorry, sold the unused ones on Ebay) the new bezels can be crimped by hand, with the blunt end of a spoon, a lot of patience, and much throwing of tools around the garage, but i'd recommend looking to someone with a crimping/pressing lathe of some sort as the finished item wasn't all that brilliant. BTW the bezel diameter is 82mm overall and i understand is quite commonly available, fits older Guzzi's as well. 74767[/snapback] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redguzziv10 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 That's useful to know. I guess the important thing is is that the white base doesn't get damaged, so how did you remove the bezel with out ruining the base? That hard plastic can crack pretty easily... Thanks. 74800[/snapback] i guess i might have misunderstood you slightly. the instruments i repaired were from a V10, which had chrome metal bezels... inside that is a plastic ring which acts as a light diffuser and spacer ( these things are impossible to get) are you saying the V11 bezels are plastic ? i didn't know that Also from memory, inside the case, two small screws are crimped to the underside of the dials.. these each connect to a long threaded bars, which then connects to the screws in the back (external) holding the cases on...my point is, if you tighten the back two screws up too much it forces internal crimped screws to come loose, and then you have to go through the whole undoing procedure again, probably breaking two more glasses as you do.....or is that just me then? to play safe, i smothered these screws in araldite before re-assemblig again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jmnvhc Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Yeah, everything in the instrument cluster is plastic on the Ballabio ('04 anyway), which is kind of dissappointing. My thought is that someday I'll get a whole instrument cluster in tact from a V10 or V11 and gut the instruments and replace them with mine (destroying the white cases in the process). I guess I'll leave them alone for now until I have enough spare parts to work with. Thanks anyway. i guess i might have misunderstood you slightly.the instruments i repaired were from a V10, which had chrome metal bezels... inside that is a plastic ring which acts as a light diffuser and spacer ( these things are impossible to get) are you saying the V11 bezels are plastic ? i didn't know that Also from memory, inside the case, two small screws are crimped to the underside of the dials.. these each connect to a long threaded bars, which then connects to the screws in the back (external) holding the cases on...my point is, if you tighten the back two screws up too much it forces internal crimped screws to come loose, and then you have to go through the whole undoing procedure again, probably breaking two more glasses as you do.....or is that just me then? to play safe, i smothered these screws in araldite before re-assemblig again 74810[/snapback] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted January 22, 2006 Share Posted January 22, 2006 I'm about to delve into the instruments on my 04 William Robert, too. It has broken glass and rings on both intruments, from the DPO's crash, but I got some non-functional-but-otherwise-intact instruments from MI Looking at them from the back, the gray ring presses into the white case. Tiny, round pegs on the gray ring mate into tiny holes on the white case. I'm hoping a tiny punch pushed into the back will free the gray ring. The trick is to support the case while pressing the ring out. With luck, I can put hte rings and glass onto my old instruments. I'll report back. I'm also moving the instruments, headlight, and fairing to mount like those on a Scura. It's looking good. Plus, I'm getting a very lightly scratched Coppa tank and fairing to put on. It'll be a very pretty mutant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 22, 2006 Share Posted January 22, 2006 I'm thinking the Scura instruments and headlamp are fork mounted like the Red Frames? That will bring the Coppa flyscreen in much closer for a tighter look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted January 22, 2006 Share Posted January 22, 2006 I'm thinking the Scura instruments and headlamp are fork mounted like the Red Frames? That will bring the Coppa flyscreen in much closer for a tighter look. 75360[/snapback] Yes; the fairing and instruments will be mounted like the fairing on your bike. Much mo' betta, in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 22, 2006 Share Posted January 22, 2006 Yes; the fairing and instruments will be mounted like the fairing on your bike. Much mo' betta, in my opinion. 75371[/snapback] You may be inviting a bit o' the nefarious RedFrame ill weave at speed. I found the little Stucchi to quiet this along with all the good suspension settings. Yet, the move away from the fork mounted fairings has been little discussed as part of Aprilia's strategy to tame those awful RedFrames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 I took apart my damaged speedo and tach this morning to replace the broken lenses, and it could not be easier. Using a thin punch, push gently on each of the "pins" evident on the underside of the rim to loosen the rim. Then, use a thin screwdriver to pry up the rim a little at a time, all the way around, and it pops right off. Be careful not to damage the little "pins" molded into the rim. They are what actually holds the rim onto the instrument. Then, hold the lens, and carefully pry it off, too. Then, pry off the needles, take out the two screws, and the entire face comes off. The ease upon which these instruments can be serviced is one definite improvement over my Eldo. I'll reserve judgement on the rest till I can ride it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 Greg, these are the 2003 and newer black faced clocks? Who makes them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 Greg, these are the 2003 and newer black faced clocks? Who makes them? 76820[/snapback] These are the ITI instruments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 for the ones who tink of changing old new instruments, they can't be changed. the ode has a different speed ratio, then you have so change the gearbox too. Ebay has the new instruments http://cgi.ebay.nl/Drehzahlmesser-Moto-Guz...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.nl/Tacho-Moto-Guzzi-ITI-V1...1QQcmdZViewItem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Foster Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 I took apart my damaged speedo and tach this morning to replace the broken lenses, and it could not be easier. Using a thin punch, push gently on each of the "pins" evident on the underside of the rim to loosen the rim. Then, use a thin screwdriver to pry up the rim a little at a time, all the way around, and it pops right off. Be careful not to damage the little "pins" molded into the rim. They are what actually holds the rim onto the instrument. Then, hold the lens, and carefully pry it off, too. Then, pry off the needles, take out the two screws, and the entire face comes off. The ease upon which these instruments can be serviced is one definite improvement over my Eldo. I'll reserve judgement on the rest till I can ride it. Greg, can you elaborate on "could not be easier"? Due to my recently misfunctioning odometer I'm trying to get into the case now. I see the pins on the underside of the rim, I push on them gently, nothing; then harder, still nothing; harder still, no dice. Being plastic they are deformed a little, but nothing gives. Did you use a hammer to tap on them? Do the pins actually move or do you drive them through and clear them out, like punching out a rivet? I don't want to bust anything up at this point, your advice appreciated. Hi Paul, I might be needing a replacement speedo. The ebay link of your post is out of date now it seems, but if you see them listed again please PM me, thanks. for the ones who tink of changing old new instruments, they can't be changed. the ode has a different speed ratio, then you have so change the gearbox too. Ebay has the new instruments http://cgi.ebay.nl/Drehzahlmesser-Moto-Guz...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.nl/Tacho-Moto-Guzzi-ITI-V1...1QQcmdZViewItem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Foster Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Well I'm reserecting an old topic. Being that the 2nd speedo I installed last November started showing signs of the odometer function quiting (like the original one did) I decided to crack open the original one tonight and have a look. But before all that, a rant - the original odo function made it to 20K miles. One would hope the 2nd one would do something similar? NOT! - at 6850 mi. the odo function (today) starts packing it in - sheesh! Anyway for you viewing pleasue I have some pics of the guts of the beast. There is quite a bit of crud scattered about the interior of the housing. Testament to the gnashing of gears that had been going on. The one close up one can see how much of the driven gear (driven by the worm gear from the speedo cable) for the ODO function has been eaten away. At this point I can turn this driven gear (sorry but I don't know the proper name) freely with a pick, it doesn't engage with the worm gear any longer. So, next? I'm going to disassemble and get the driven gear out. But then what? I had thought I would try to build it back up. But with what? JB Weld? How would I recut the gear profiles? Any suggestions out there? A close up of the parts. And a closer close up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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