slug Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Last night I heard a humming sound coming from what I thought was the tires while riding on some freshly paved asphalt, so I ignored it. This morning on the way to work the back end started feeling loose, and when I went to use the rear brake, it took three pumps of the lever to get the pads (or what was left) to grip... Looked down at the rear wheel (caliper/brake side) and saw one very unhappy and disjoined looking wheel bearing When I got off the bike the brake pads were pretty much gone, the rotor is pretty badly scored, and the rotor is also rubbing up against the caliper when turning... I'm feeling pretty lucky that the wheel didn't seize up on me (if that's possible.) So, I've checked the local Napa store and they have the right bearing in stock and I can grab some pads today. 1. Should the replacement of this bearing be pretty straightforward? 2. Is a bearing puller necessary? 3. Any other advice for getting this changed out quickly? I'm aware that there are probably some deeper issues associated with the bearing failure (incorrectly sized spacer, etc.) that will need to be addressed soon, but I'm in the middle of moving and my time/tool availability is somewhat restricted... Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redguzziv10 Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 i have my rear wheel in bits at the moment. if no-one else beats me to it, i'll post the bearing number tomorrow. i got these out by "lightly" tapping a screwdriver from the drive box side. The internal spacer has some play in it, so you should be able to move it around a bit to tap uniformly around the inner face of the bearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 1. Yes.... .........but I found I needed to wedge a long flat bladed drift in quite firmly to retain purchase on first brng inner. 2. No Bearings are 6204 C3 - (C3 signifies increased internal clearances). But why is brng knackered? V11's regularly knock out r brake side brng. Check the brng spacer is same length as distance between brngs. Some have been found to be short = side loads on inner races = races out of line = failure. The reason they are short maybe bad manufacture, or as Pete Roper suggested recently: overtightening of rear axle nut causing poor quality spacer to deform. Another thing that was pointed out in the last thread was that when fitting brngs, drift should act on both outer & inner races. I'd knocked em in on outer races only for years - but obviously it makes sense to drive both to assure races are in alignment. Leave brngs in freezer (in packaging!) a while, they drop in easy when cold. But do a search - there's loads on this. FAQ? KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 .... The internal spacer has some play in it.... is it too short? ...V11's regularly knock out brake side brng. Check the brng spacer is same length as distance between brngs. Some have been found to be short = side loads on inner races = races out of line = failure..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slug Posted February 2, 2006 Author Share Posted February 2, 2006 Already have the bearing number and found a source I'm pretty sure the spacer is too short. Last time I had the wheel off I noticed the spacer had a lot of play. Guilty as charged for overtightening the axle nut. Sometimes I don't know my own strength I'll have to address the spacer in a few weeks once I'm done moving and my garage is set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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