nuevototem Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Hi to all, I have a beautiful MG V11 sport 2003 36km. The other day going to work and I hear a noise coming form the gearbox and feel a little shake on the bike at the same time. Stopped immediately and I found that the motor was running OK, crutch noise OK, but was not possible to move the bike on neutral or with the clutch pressed. Changing gears was possible without problems. I take the bike to Jose Caparros shop at Barcelona Spain. He opened the side of the gearbox and we found some pieces of metal. We are almost sure that a bearing blow, everything else looks OK. He thinks that the water that gets inside the gearbox could oxidized the bearing. :!: SO: He will take out the gearbox, disable, and check the bearings and everything else for oxide or other problem. He told me that it would be a good idea to change all the gearbox bearings not only the damaged one (and his opposed). It will cost me like 800 :!: euros the complete job if we don’t find any thing else broken down!!! . The factory guarantee runs out like 8 months ago. Please fellows what do you think about this? Any ideas? Do any have experience about this? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antonio carroccio Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Yeay buddy, I am still looking for the third and the manicotto........ <_> I am in the same shit you are. There is one vantage, my bike is still running, what I have to do is to be veeeery careful with my gear when I am getting in the neighbourhood of the third from the fourth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbikerrick Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Hi to all, I have a beautiful MG V11 sport 2003 36km. The other day going to work and I hear a noise coming form the gearbox and feel a little shake on the bike at the same time. Stopped immediately and I found that the motor was running OK, crutch noise OK, but was not possible to move the bike on neutral or with the clutch pressed. Changing gears was possible without problems. I take the bike to Jose Caparros shop at Barcelona Spain. He opened the side of the gearbox and we found some pieces of metal. We are almost sure that a bearing blow, everything else looks OK. He thinks that the water that gets inside the gearbox could oxidized the bearing. :!: SO: He will take out the gearbox, disable, and check the bearings and everything else for oxide or other problem. He told me that it would be a good idea to change all the gearbox bearings not only the damaged one (and his opposed). It will cost me like 800 :!: euros the complete job if we don’t find any thing else broken down!!! . The factory guarantee runs out like 8 months ago. Please fellows what do you think about this? Any ideas? Do any have experience about this? Thanks in advance. 78051[/snapback] Senor Nuevototem, How did your gear lubricant look when you drained it? was it milky looking? do you ride in the rain alot? if you do I would suggest one of the plastic plates to block the water spray from the rear tire on top of the transmission. there is a place on this forum that shows a pattern for making one , real easy. also I would suggest after your gearbox is repaired, use redline shockproof heavy gear oil, it made a great difference in my bike (also an 03 naked) and in many others here. Keep us posted as to what is found in the transmission. Ricardo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted February 10, 2006 Author Share Posted February 10, 2006 bigbikerrick 1) How did your gear lubricant look when you drained it? Was it milky looking? 2) Do you ride in the rain allot? 1) Yes off course it looks milky. 2) No I do not ride in rain. When there is rain I use my ´79 VESPA. I will post all the updates of this issue and will try to put pics also. To all Did any make a repair to the gearbox himself? I check the repair manual and looks really complicated and looks like we have to buy some special tools. Is over there some guide to do this? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Well, the first money saving is done when you take it out of the bike yourself. I did open one, but didn't take it in pieces. If it makes sense to chnage all bearings, I 'm not sure, I would first open it up and look what went wrong. The thing that oxidation is the reason, I don't think, even with water in, the oil is everywhere. I don't think that you can get the bearings at your local bearing shop. There is a guy in norway who sells a toolkit to make things easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted February 11, 2006 Author Share Posted February 11, 2006 Hi Paul, Thanks for the info. I can add that I do the services myself so I think that I can call myself an amateur mechanic. I have a few questions for you: 1) “The first money saving is done when you take it out of the bike yourself” I check the repair manual and found that it is necessary to have the Central auxiliary stand, Do I need something else? Do you have any guide or recommendation? 2) “I did open one” I see that you push the Guzzis to the limits. I am very disappointed with this problem, Witch problems did you have with the gearbox? Can I consider it reliable? I have only bad luck? 3) “There is a guy in Norway who sells a toolkit to make things easy” What do you mean? To dissemble the gearbox? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 1) “The first money saving is done when you take it out of the bike yourself” I check the repair manual and found that it is necessary to have the Central auxiliary stand, Do I need something else? Do you have any guide or recommendation? No special tools needed to get it out. watch this topic: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7181 In a few hours you can get it out. The backcover comes off without special tools. 2) “I did open one” I see that you push the Guzzis to the limits. I am very disappointed with this problem, Witch problems did you have with the gearbox? Can I consider it reliable? I have only bad luck? Well I didn't have problems with it yet. Some people did, but it's not that you can point to a weak spot. I just opend it out of curiosity. 3) “There is a guy in Norway who sells a toolkit to make things easy” What do you mean? To dissemble the gearbox? Yes. look here: http://www.guzzitech.dk/05/05-11/05-11_e.htm Compare with the workshop manual if it's interesting. I have no idea of the costs. In spain you can ask Classic Co - Mauro Abbadini's shop near Madri for more info, he has some (bad)experience with the 6 speed I think. Do I read 36km in your first post? then there is waranty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 Hi to all, With a friend we take out the engine and the gearbox!!! INCREIDIBLE!!! Well now I am on the page 338 of the mechanic manual with the special tool Nº01 91 38 30 but I can’t take out the “L” or “l” ring nut!!! I see that the washer (like a star) behind have like a small part looking the ring nut. Do any know how to take it out? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Hi that one is so that the nut doesn't come off when you drive. normaly with some gentle force, hammer the part that is locking the nut back so the nut comes free to move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted February 26, 2006 Author Share Posted February 26, 2006 Hi!!! OK now I finished dissembling the gearbox! I confirm that the problem was a that one of the bearings blow. Looks like there was a oxidize problem so I decide to change the 9 bearings and the 2 (don’t know the name in English to the plastic ring that keep the oil inside the gearbox so don’t get out to the clutch or to the shaft) I will change all this because I don’t want any more problems on the gearbox. Total cost more or less 400 euros. Please any know how to take out the “plastic rings” and the bearings inside the gearbox? My mechanic told me that I can use the furnace? Did any of you try it out? Thanks to all! Thanks Paul Minnaert for your quick answers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 So now we want to know which bearing it was, picture? the balls we out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted February 26, 2006 Author Share Posted February 26, 2006 Hi, “So now we want to know which bearing it was picture? the balls we out?” Sorry no camera here… but the bearing was the one that is at the end of one of the 2 secondary shafts. And yes the balls blow away… Any answer or idea to my last post? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 heating the aluminium will let it expand so the bearings come out more easy. For some bearings a special tools exist. Look in the parts list to get the idea. The plastics should normaly come out just with a screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 If you bake it in an oven, do so for a short time (10-15 min?) at high temp- the aluminum expands and grows faster than the steel bearing cages. If they are a loose fit, then the might just fall out, but I wouldn't count on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 What you don't want to do is bash in the new bearings. When I rebuilt a Norton engine and also an MZ engine and gearbox, it was very effective if the cases were warmed to about 100°C and the bearings cold. I put all the bearings in the freezer overnight in a plastic bag. All the bearings dropped straight in up to the shoulder and then gripped tight as the temperatures equalised. Getting the old bearings out I took the cases up to about 150°C in the kitchen oven. Slapping the case half smartly down onto a piece of clean board caused the bearings to fall out. Make sure all the plastic seals are out and the whole thing is well degreased first, otherwise your kitchen will smell like a machine shop for ever. These methods ensure that the bearing seats in the case don't become worn or damaged by getting the bearings in as out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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