Rear Brake Pads

[Allan1956]

Crikey. I'll be back in a minute. I'll just have to go to the shed and see if I've got any pads left on the front and rear of the bike 'cause they haven't been changed since new and I've got 31000klms up.

 

Nah, it's alright. They're still ok.

 

Seriously though, all on highways (except the recent advanced cornering and braking course at a local raceway - 250 kls for the day at full blat. Shite, those jap bikes are fast on the straights but can't keep up in the corners)

[belfastguzzi]

Outstanding, BFG!

90580[/snapback]

My sag is quite good too. I had it repainted and it looks splendid.

[belfastguzzi]

I do use my rear brake as a speed controller in town riding to avoid torque reversals

90601[/snapback]

Give 'em a blast with your horn. That'll make the dozy critters shift out of your way.

[DeBenGuzzi]

So...... I'm going to buy new rears, and maybe fronts, the fronts are ok but will need to be changed soon the rears are just about done. Good thing I caught it when I did really, What is the best option for the rear? the EBC, SBS or Ferodo? or other??

[dlaing]

What is the best option for the rear? the EBC, SBS or Ferodo? or other??

90621[/snapback]

I think they are all pretty competitive.

I would avoid anything sintered and and any of that no name stuff on eBay(no name may be fine, but brakes are critical to your life)

Still if I have to draw a bias, Brembo is probably the best, although not necessarilly the most powerful.

But because I am cheap, I would save a few bucks and go with the SBS ceramic Low-Friction, SBS-519LF. I like that SBS offers a choice of high and low friction. The low friction is supposed to be the choice for the rear, and it with our rears tendency for brake grown, lower friction makes sense.

Take your bike for a high speed ten minute ride without using the rear brake, and see how hot the rear rotor gets. If it is too hot to touch, or your flesh melted and blistered, you must service that caliber, or stop resting your toe on the lever

Last time I checked after cleaning, the rotors did get a little warm.

It makes me wonder if I would get more MPG if I had no rear brake, or spring retracting pads.

What is the purpose of floating disks? would a floating rear disk or a floating caliber help????

[Martin Barrett]

Take your bike for a high speed ten minute ride without using the rear brake, and see how hot the rear rotor gets. If it is too hot to touch, or your flesh melted and blistered, you must service that caliber, or stop resting your toe on the lever

90623[/snapback]

 

Don't forget to clean and grease the brake pedal pivot. Mine springs back with gusto now I've done that. I couldn't believe the difference. I was berating that it doesn't have a return spring. But if clean and greased it doesn't need one. Mine obviously had gone off over the last 2 years of all weather abuse and neglect and I hadn't noticed it going off untill it had virtually seized solid

[Guest Buddy]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have now checked everything as working properly and am guessing it is my riding style (4000miles per set of rear pads). I tend to lightly trail the rear brake in fast corners, to keep the back of the bike settled. (A technique I used on tracks in my days of GSXR 750s).

[Guest Nogbad]

Thanks for all the suggestions.    I have now checked everything as working properly and am guessing it is my riding style (4000miles per set of rear pads). I tend to lightly trail the rear brake in fast corners, to keep the back of the bike settled. (A technique I used on tracks in my days of GSXR 750s).

90670[/snapback]

 

Isn't that just a waste of power? As long as the engine is pulling, engine + brake = engine alone on slightly less throttle. How would the bike know the difference unless loading up the torque arm altered the suspension response, in which case isn't the problem a suspension setup one? The V11 brake reaction force is confined within the swingarm, so couldn't possibly affect the suspension. No idea about a GSXR, never looked at one that closely.

[Guest Buddy]

Nogbad. I'm not sure why it works, all I know is it does work and can help you smoothly alter the rate of turn if the corner tightens up. As for suspension settings; I've spent a lot of time getting the compromise setting I like. When I talk of trailing in the rear brake, maybe feathering is a more accurate description. Try it by picking your favourite laft hand bend and notice that it will tighten your line.

[DeBenGuzzi]

I feel the engine stops the bike better than the Rear brakes so I only use the rear when coming to a more abrupt stop. corners are almost all throttle control for me who needs brakes she handles like a dream. Maybe not like an R1 but then who gives a rats ass the thing is a tank and it handles like a sport bike. After riding the R6(much harder to ride well) I'm even more content with my torq machine.

[guzzimeister]

here's my two penn'orth. Rear OE pads with me wore out at 7000 miles regularly until I adjusted the rear brake pedal so my foot wasn't resting lightly on it all the time..........time will tell if it worked!

 

Please don't strip the caliper unless you really know what you are doing. I used to work for a caliper manufacturer (Teves) and the pistons were put into the claiper housing under controlled pressure, with the nose greased and under a slight vibration. Failure to do so took a tiny nick out of the ring seal which led to the caliper leaking when not under pressure. Changed the calipers on about 20,000 Fords as a result....

 

If you are still confident, grease the nose of the piston (bit that goes past the seal) with a small amount of silicon grease, and very gently, twisting it as you go, ease it past the seal. Please also be aware that Brembo now only sell complete calipers, no repair kits, due to recent product liability action in the US where some twat had brake failure by fitting his Brembo master cylinder with non Brembo seals.

 

Yours in truth

 

Guzz

 

I clean the piston every rear tire (4000 to 5000 miles) and replace the pads every two tires.

I could probably go three tires, but the pad insulates against heat boiling the fluid, so it is good to keep it thick.

My OEM pads wore out very quickly, before learning to clean the caliber piston.

I imagine if I cleaned the piston every 2000miles, I could get more life out of the pads, but the pads are cheap compared to what I would charge myself for labor

Meanwhile the front OEM brake pads have plenty of life left after well more than 30,000 miles.

90581[/snapback]

[DeBenGuzzi]

Please also be aware that Brembo now only sell complete calipers, no repair kits, due to recent product liability action in the US where some twat had brake failure by fitting his Brembo master cylinder with non Brembo seals.

 

Yours in truth

 

Guzz

91345[/snapback]

thats a bunch of crap, he should be the one responsible for his own actions, no one to sue but himself for gross negligence, is this just in america that things have gone this far that if a burgler breaks into your house and the dog bites him he can sue you for medical liability, (maybe not in texas) but its rediculous and the warning labels they've had to put on EVERYthing that is just a "Duh" to anyone with 1 brain cell wiggling around in their gorde.

stupid ppl piss me off, sorry.

good thing they don't ride 's

[Greg Field]

I have shelves full of caliper and master cylinder rebuild kits at Moto I, so consider the possibility that the lawsuit story is apocryphal.

[mike wilson]

Give 'em a blast with your horn. That'll make the dozy critters shift out of your way.

90618[/snapback]

 

 

He knows not to take his (both...) hands off the bars when he's riding.

[DeBenGuzzi]

Your friendly forum sponsor 

or here is my unverified research on brake pad part numbers

Please verify before ordering

...and if anyone knows other than what I posted, please post corrections.

 

FERODO

FDB207P    Ferodo Platinum compound for F05 calipers & spine frame rears  $24.50

FDB207S    Ferodo Sintered compound for spine frame rears, stainless only  $33.50

 

SBS

Front - SBS 566

Rear - SBS 519

followed by the suffix HF, HS, LF, or LS.

H for front high friction

L for rear low friction

F for easier on rotors

S for sintered

so for the rear I would go with SBS-519LF

I recently installed 20 year old SBS V65 brake pads, and they seem fine...I should have saved the number...

EBC

EBC front

FA244* kevlar

FA244HH* sintered

 

EBC rear

FA47 kevlar

FA47HH  sintered

 

EBC front rotors

MD2003LS

MD2003RS

 

 

  Here are some Ducati REAR that should cross reference

350 / 400SS 1990 - 1998

Monster 400 2000 - 2005

600SS 1994 - 1999

Monster 600 1994 - 2001

Monster 620 2002 - 2005

Monster 620 Dark 2002 - 2005

Monster 620S 2002 - 2005

620S 2003 - 2005

Multistrada 620 2005 - 2006

Multistrada 620 Dark 2005 - 2006

748SP 1995 - 1997

748 Biposto 1995 - 2001

750SS 1991 - 1998

Monster 750 1996 - 1999

Monster 800 2003 - 2005

Monster 800S 2003 - 2005

Monster 800 Dark 2003 - 2005

Monster S2R 800 2005 - 2006

Monster S2R 800 Dark 2005 - 2006

900SS 1990 - 1997

900SL 1993 - 1999

Monster 900 1993 - 1999

916 1994 - 1998

996 Biposto 1999

Monster 1000 2003 - 2005

Monster 1000S 2003 - 2005

Monster 1000 Cromo 2003 - 2005

Monster 1000 Dark 2003 - 2005

Monster S2R 1000 2005 - 2006

90598[/snapback]

here's to having you around . Also are the SBS the best choice or are they basically ther same? I'm leaning towards SBS and haven't ordered yet