Removing rear wheel

[pShenk]

I got a flat on my rear tire, and I figured this is a good excuse to put new tires on. I've never removed the wheels before, so I'm following the instructions in the manual. Step one says remove nut "A".

 

So I go to remove it, and it's very tight. I crank with just about all I got, and it starts to spin. I'm thinking, well it's got to get loose soon, but after about 4 turns, it's still super tight. Then I notice that the threaded pin that its on... the one that runs through the brake caliper plate and the wheel... is spinning. On the other side (the non-caliper side), the pin is flat. There's nothing to hold on to to keep it from spinning.

 

Any ideas? Am I doing it wrong?

[felix42o]

14mm alen key fits nicely...I threw mine away or I'd loan it to ya.

[Guest Nogbad]

There is a rubber plug in the plain end of the axle. Take that out and you will find the 14mm hex socket. There should be a hex key in the tool kit to fit it.

 

The axle will often rust itself to the sleeves it passes through, and you might have to use a hammer. Make sure you support the opposite end of the swingarm when you hit the axle, and use a wooden block twixt hammer and axle end!

 

Find a socket or steel tube offcut that passes over the plain end of the axle to rest against the swingarm. Might be an idea to remove the silver plastic trim first. The get an assistant to hold the socket in place with a heavy steel block to absorb the shock. A sledgehammer head is ideal.

[pShenk]

Got it, thanks. I wondered if there was a cap on the blunt end, but it looked like metal. I didn't look hard enough I guess.

 

Power Pilots, here I come

[pShenk]

Ok, I got the pin out, and it was a beast! It wasn't even really rusted, it just stuck about half-way through, and wouldn't go. I managed to eventually wiggle it the right way, and got it out.

 

Would it be a bad thing to apply a little grease to the pin when I put it back in? Just a very thin film I'm thinking.

 

Also, there is a short shim, about 1/2" long that looks like it goes on the pin, between the gearbox and the wheel. That's the only place I can think that it dropped from. THe manual says "careful not to loose shim D", so I'm guessing that's it.

[Guest Nogbad]

If you took the pin right out you should find working from the plain end (bevel box end):

 

Large diameter plain washer between swingarm and bevel box

Needle roller race (hardened sleeve about 3/4" long, easy to recognise as there is a hole drilled in the side of it)

Spacer (shim) between bevel box and wheel. (I think this is "D")

 

Check the needle roller in the bevel box for rust / damage. Wash it out with kerosene and regrease it.

[Baldini]

...Would it be a bad thing to apply a little grease to the pin when I put it back in? ....

 

NO! It would be a very GOOD thing!

[pShenk]

Thanks guys.

 

Nogbad, what's the bevel box? I assume that's the thing I was calling the gearbox... at the end of the shaft drive?

 

Should I check the bearings for proper greasing while I've got the wheel off? How freely should they spin?

[Guest Nogbad]

Thanks guys.

 

Nogbad, what's the bevel box? I assume that's the thing I was calling the gearbox... at the end of the shaft drive?

 

Should I check the bearings for proper greasing while I've got the wheel off? How freely should they spin?

 

It's the housing into which the shaft goes, and which contains the gubbins that turn the drive through 90° to connect to the wheel.

 

The bearings shouldn't feel notchy. If they turn smoothly, don't worry about stiffness it's just seal friction. Notchiness and wobble in the inner races is the sign of a tired bearing.

 

You can't grease the OEM bearings without prising the seals out or using a needle thingy. Don't worry about it.

 

The needle roller in the outside end of the bevel box really ought to be cleaned out with kerosene and be generously regreased every time you have the wheel out. This bearing has no seals and relies on a close fit of the outer shim washer to keep dirt and water out, so a good packing with water resistant grease is the best medicine. Try to get the grease they sell for boat trailer wheel bearings.

[pShenk]

I got it all back together, and liberally greased. Everything was really dry in there... I put grease on the gear that links the wheel to the bevel box. It was pretty rusty.

 

Funny, but it rolls so much smoother now. Maybe it's just my imagination, but it sure seems to.

 

The nut on the end of the pin (the brake side), would I thread lock it?

[Guest Nogbad]

 

The nut on the end of the pin (the brake side), would I thread lock it?

 

No, the nut already has a locking insert in the end. If the nut doesn't become noticeably stiffer once it is fully on the thread, the best solution is to buy a new nut.

 

Did you clean and check that needle bearing?

[Bill Hagan]

I got a flat on my rear tire, and I figured this is a good excuse to put new tires on. I've never removed the wheels before, so I'm following the instructions in the manual. Step one says remove nut "A".

 

So I go to remove it, and it's very tight. I crank with just about all I got, and it starts to spin. I'm thinking, well it's got to get loose soon, but after about 4 turns, it's still super tight. Then I notice that the threaded pin that its on... the one that runs through the brake caliper plate and the wheel... is spinning. On the other side (the non-caliper side), the pin is flat. There's nothing to hold on to to keep it from spinning.

 

Any ideas? Am I doing it wrong?

 

Well, your post and the replies inspired me to take off my Ballabio's rear wheel ... well, that and that the dealer said they'd change out the worn-out Pilot Power on the spot if I brought the wheel, but would need an appointment if on the bike.

 

This simple-to-most-everyone-else-here task is something I'd watched done, but not actually done myself before.

 

So, got the Ballabio on the lift, got out the manual, actually read it, reread this thread, and started.

 

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot.

 

I must be too much of a literalist. I see nada in the pic and instructions about the $%^&* cotter pin holding that plate on, so I try to slip the brakes and plate off. No way. Hmmmmmm. Avoiding the obvious and easy "pull the cotter" approach, I try to remove the thick pin and post that holds the plate. ZOING! Break a 6mm hex key. Hmmmmmm. Eventually, sort it out by pulling the cotter pin and also remove the frozen item, too (yes, I'll anti-seize on the way back in), but still managed to scar the #$%^&* out of the wheel rim trying to take the tire out. Replacing the 180 with a 170, but doubt if the width will make much difference on that. Now to search archives for touching up the wheels. Grrrrrr.

 

Anyway, thanks for the thread; it should be "easy" next time.

 

Bill

 

P.S. Note to self: remember to sand sides of tire before going to dealer to get some cred with the wrench.

[pShenk]

Did you clean and check that needle bearing?

 

You know, I thougt I did, but now thinking back on it, I think I was confused. I was looking at the needle roller race, and cleaned that off and greased it, but now I'm seeing that you meant the actual bearing mounted in the bevel box. I didn't do that one.

 

Does it come out, or clean it as it is, mounted in the bevel box? I did pack grease between it and the the spacer that sits against the outside of the bearing. But I didn't clean it out. I might as well take the wheel off again tonight, and do that. Heh, thanks for looking out for me.

 

I saw on another thread that the axle nut should be torqued to 88 ft/lbs. Does that sounds right?

 

And finally, is there ever any reason to remove the bevel box, open it up, and check the grease in there? Is that one place that MG might have "forgot" to lube?

 

I see nada in the pic and instructions about the $%^&* cotter pin holding that plate on, so I try to slip the brakes and plate off. No way.

 

Hey Bill, glad it "worked" for you. By cotter pin, do you mean the pin and the metal block that slips onto it, that is mounted on the left swingarm, that the brake caliper plate pivots on? I can't visualize what you mean otherwise... I didn't run into anything else quite like you're describing.

 

For me, once I pulled the axle out a little bit (throught the caliper plate), the caliper plate just pivoted downward on that pin/block, and I could slide it off. I had to wiggle it a little to clear the rim, but it worked. I also removed the hugger to give myself some better access to the wheel. I might leave it off, looks kind of cool.

[twhitaker]

 

And finally, is there ever any reason to remove the bevel box, open it up, and check the grease in there? Is that one place that MG might have "forgot" to lube?

 

The final drive housing is filled with gear oil. On the housing you will see 3 fittings. One at the top, one at the bottom and a level plug at the back. I use 80W140 gear oil to which I've added some Molykote. If you get an oil that is rated GL5 it does not need the additive.

 

Once a year or every 6,000 miles.

[Guest Nogbad]

You know, I thougt I did, but now thinking back on it, I think I was confused. I was looking at the needle roller race, and cleaned that off and greased it, but now I'm seeing that you meant the actual bearing mounted in the bevel box. I didn't do that one.

 

Does it come out, or clean it as it is, mounted in the bevel box? I did pack grease between it and the the spacer that sits against the outside of the bearing. But I didn't clean it out. I might as well take the wheel off again tonight, and do that. Heh, thanks for looking out for me.

 

It doesn't come out, but it's easy to clean it in situ using kerosene, spray WD40 or spray brake cleaner. You can then see whether all the rollers are there and if they are uncorroded. Finally pack new grease in.