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Spitting and popping..?


Gio

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Thanks for all the feedback. I think I will replace the fuel hose as a precaution (and maybe reverse the positions of the pump and filter at the same time as per earlier discussion). With regard to possible problems with the PC, I think that my main problem is most likely related to removal of the tank/hoses etc in the first place as everything was running just fine before that. But then again co-incidence can be a cruel thing...

I also checked with my local gas station and they claim that their storage tanks were replaced in '98 (for the non-metal kind) and have had no other problems reported...

 

At least I'm back up and running - and that's a good thing.

 

Gio

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Guest mcloutier

Gio, if you want to eliminate the PC3 just load a zero map to it. This will tell you if you have a problem with the PC3 or if it is elsewhere. With the zero map loaded it should be exactly the same as having the PC3 removed. If it's not the same then you have a problem with your PC3.

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It's quite possible that it is the PC. I've got first hand experience with a PC failing on a trip from Laguna. It was on a friend's ZX-12R and caused all sorts of grief from backfiring, horrible fuel mileage (even for a ZX-12 :lol: ) smoking (like carbon build up smoke), over heating and other combined problems. We finally just unhooked the PC and ran the connections as per stock and the problem went away. I've heard of other mysterious engine malfunctions caused by a faulty PC also.

 

A tip I learned a few years ago while dirt riding/dual sporting. We were on a 3 day cross country trip to a secluded cabin we had rented. Came into a village that had one gas station. While some of us filled up with Regular Unleaded, others filled up with Super, myself included. A friend told me, never fill up with Super in a one horse town. The locals all buy Regular and the Super sits a long time in the storage tanks.

 

About 5 miles later, everyone who had filled up with Super suddenly had engine problems like backfiring, loss of power etc.

 

Since then, I've heeded this advice and haven't had a bad tank of fuel since.

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Thanks for the tips. I may not get a chance to do any further diagnosis over the next week or so but am planning to try both the zero map and also an exchange with a second PC from a friends bike if this indicates a problem with the PC itself.

 

Gio

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just tried the zero map in the PC - same problem (and ok if the PC disconnected again) so I plan to switch out the PC with another unit to confirm the diagnosis.

 

Gio

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a chance to swap out the PC with another one and of course the bike was back to how it should be. Just as a final double-check I re-connected my suspect PC (still with zero map loaded) and it worked perfectly...! I just re-loaded the 706.002 again and all is well.

 

There seem to be higher powers at work here...

 

Gio

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There seem to be higher powers at work here...

.. or a bad connection, a bad soldering or dirt/humidity

which just "fixed" by yanking the cable.

"Glappkontakt" in swedish :bier:

 

Be aware that in that case the problems probably will appear again,

and at worst possible moment :(

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1. Install manifold adapters and verify synchronisation (vac spec = 7mbar or ~0.5cm Hg). Re-install blanking plugs (or temporary ones if adjustment required - I used small pieces of tube with one end sealed)

Stupid Q: :doh:

What is these adaptor thingies,

and where can i get them or how do I make them myself?

 

On the Beeza I just have to measure the throttle appeture :D

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There is a port on each inlet manifold (sealed with a 5mm hex) into which you screw the line adapters for vacuum measurement. The ones I use came with the carb sticks but they should be easy enough to make.

 

Gio

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