guzzi jon Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 Yep, you're right about Pete, if he misses his meds, he's hell to deal with... Here's a pic of Pete chokin his chook while swilling his meds... i wouldn't want to cross this guy in a dark alley, he's known to carry razor sharp plates, and possibly clamps as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 While it may be that this subtopic on this thread may disapear quickly, I had to comment. I'm very glad that the Seimens relays are doing well for you. I however had nothing but issues with mine from day one. Many attempts by the dealer, giving me handfulls of replacement Seimens did nothing. It wasn't until I purchased [for the dizzying price of 1 pound each] those silly Chinese relays did this constant relay failure stop. I am not a proponent of the job robbing trade practices of China, and in my business I am constantly faced with installation of horrifically bad quality products from China. I can tell you that these silly little relays had a huge input into my current ownership of my V11 Sport. Without them, my bike would have been gone long ago!! And now, back to the talks of hose clamps and thread locktighton oil filters!!! Ciao, Steve Hi Steve, I don't doubt in the least the numerous accounts of relay failures. Many manufacturers do not actually make, at their own facilities all of the parts they sell . Sometimes they even gather sub assemblies from multiple sources and do the final assembly in a certain region for political or tax related reasons. IT is entirely possible or very likely there was a bad batch. Relay replacement is straight forward, thankfully there are no threads involved in the installation! In regards to the other related comments actually addressed to another; My bike is using the Smart switch to turn on driving lights. The Smart switch uses the high beam flasher turned on for 1 second to turn on the driving lights. To turn them off again requires another 1 second high beam flash. I also have fitted to my bike Chevrolet truck horns that draw more current than the originals and I do use them often. All that said I still carry and will carry spare relays, fuses, throttle cables, tire pump and patches. The weight doesn't really bother me the bike is still plenty fast enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helicopterjim R.I.P. Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 How about this clamp? ... or if you are really worried try this clamp!! I hope everyone here on this forum feels free to choose whatever method they want. I am going to use some form of clamp for my filters but as I am not riding these days I am not losing any sleep over it either. Cheers Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeBenGuzzi Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 as for locktight I was thinking of the weak stuff and only right at the top of the threads that the filter screws onto. otherwise I'm just gonna krank that sucker on good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 My bike is using the Smart switch to turn on driving lights. The Smart switch uses the high beam flasher turned on for 1 second to turn on the driving lights. To turn them off again requires another 1 second high beam flash. Cool product! http://store.valueaccessories.net/index.as...&ProdID=416 Thanks for the enLIGHTenment I have been meaning to run a bypass line and relay setup from the battery to the headlight for the longest time. That would take a load off the suspected relay and brighten up the headlamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 as for locktight I was thinking of the weak stuff and only right at the top of the threads that the filter screws onto. otherwise I'm just gonna krank that sucker on good. Easy on that mate. Loctite won't do much locking in that oily evironment. A little Loctite winding up in the wrong place could wreak some heretofore unknown havoc of it's own. A point to remember that I haven't yet seen mentioned is NEVER use grease to lubricate the face of the filter seal. I have seen experienced wrenches do it too! Always use clean, fresh motor oil after wiping the seal and the mating area dry. Grease is a definite no-no. Also make absolutely certain you have removed the old seal ring along with the old filter. They have been known to stick to the engine. One ring good two rings baaad. Cool product! http://store.valueaccessories.net/index.as...&ProdID=416 Thanks for the enLIGHTenment I have been meaning to run a bypass line and relay setup from the battery to the headlight for the longest time. That would take a load off the suspected relay and brighten up the headlamp. I can help you out with headlight relays too. I have used headlight relays on every bike for the last 40 years. The relays remove the heavy current from the ignition switch as well as the headlight/ dimmer switch. Now only the very small relay coil current flows through that circuit. A seperate, fused lead from the battery feeds the relay contacts and in turn the filaments in the headlight. Your lights will get at least a full volt increase at the filaments which translates into bright, white light compared to the factory set-up. You can find the schematic and pictorial along with pics of the relays at my webhots photo server (pages 3 and 4). If you PM me I can probably make up a set for you. V-----------Click below for Webshots----------V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 There's a thread HERE on hard wiring the headlamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 ....I have used headlight relays on every bike for the last 40 years. The relays remove the heavy current from the ignition switch as well as the headlight/ dimmer switch. .... 40 years? So you've started your automotive career with 6V installations probably, same as I did. My first car was a Beetle. I can say the 6V installation was more or less all this car had for heating the interiour, but not for operating high/low beam or brake lights. Without relais you could really watch them as they slowly went from dark to less dark after hitting the switch. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 40 years? So you've started your automotive career with 6V installations probably, same as I did. My first car was a Beetle. I can say the 6V installation was more or less all this car had for heating the interiour, but not for operating high/low beam or brake lights. Without relais you could really watch them as they slowly went from dark to less dark after hitting the switch. Hubert My first three cars were 6 volt cars. A 1930 Ford Fordor , a 1931 Ford Tudor and a 1940 Chevrolet Coupe. The model As only lasted me my first winter and summer as a licensed driver. The 1940 Chevy lasted from age 17 till age 24 when my second son was born. The Chevy did have a 12 volt system by the time I sold it. My wifes first car was a 1958 Karmann Ghia she bought in 1968, another 6 volt wonder. The 6 volt headlight bulbs etc were still on the shelves at auto parts stores and department store auto sections. You had one shot at getting the car started then it was time for hand cranking! Yes I often hand cranked the Model As. The model A had no real regulator as the later cars used. It was more to disconnect the battery when the generator output went below battery voltage. Otherwise the generator ran at a pre-set level. The early Model A used a moveable third brush to adjust generator output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeBenGuzzi Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 My first three cars were 6 volt cars. A 1930 Ford Fordor , a 1931 Ford Tudor and a 1940 Chevrolet Coupe. The model As only lasted me my first winter and summer as a licensed driver. The 1940 Chevy lasted from age 17 till age 24 when my second son was born. The Chevy did have a 12 volt system by the time I sold it. My wifes first car was a 1958 Karmann Ghia she bought in 1968, another 6 volt wonder. The 6 volt headlight bulbs etc were still on the shelves at auto parts stores and department store auto sections. You had one shot at getting the car started then it was time for hand cranking! Yes I often hand cranked the Model As. The model A had no real regulator as the later cars used. It was more to disconnect the battery when the generator output went below battery voltage. Otherwise the generator ran at a pre-set level. The early Model A used a moveable third brush to adjust generator output. JESUS just how old are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 JESUS just how old are you? GET OFF MY LAWN, KID! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Come on Bendy, it's not really that difficult to spot the OLD CURMUDGEONS on the board. Here - why isn't there a smiley with a beard(grey)?! We must have one, this being a Moto Guzzi board and all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeBenGuzzi Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 56 30 more than me gosh I hope I'm still riding at that age. j/k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 gosh I hope I'm still riding at that age. j/k By then, there won't be any petrol and bikes will be banned anyway. And it'll be Waterworld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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