thumper

Mine runs on pods just fine, a good possibility that the TPS needs to be set. Take a look at the TPS screws do they look like they have been messed with? Some try to adjust for the pods using the TPS. Do a valve, plug, TPS, and a fuel filter change. It may be the fuel filter.

Could be the clutch master, long shot but possible.

On the outside, you can just use some black silicone on the outside of the dime to match your case cover. I just put in a bead of 3bond then pushed in the dime smeared some more on the outside and its been no problem.

I used a fix that was posted long ago, clean it op good, then three bond a dime in the hole, wait over night and done. Worked fine for me 4 years ago.

Or its a 2 person job, one to hold the bike up and level, and one to check the level.

I don't know what years the spring is a issue, I changed my 2000 at 20,000 mi. It never broke. From what you say something got hot and expanded causing it to seize when you downshifted then when it cooled all was fine. May not be a problem at all, check the fluid and the plug refill I would not worry to much about it till I drained and checked, It may all just be a one time thing and no problem exists. These bikes are a bit funny and sometimes do what they want.

If it were me I would drain the trans in a clean container and check the drain plug magnet, look at the old fluid and plug for metal. I think a cup low is a lot, need to find out where it went. May not be a problem at all, Have you taken apart and cleaned the shift linkage? Maybe its been a cup low from the last change if no leaks have been detected. I would clean the linkage and refill the trans and see how it goes.

No,you have it. Just find the notch in the spacer and tap (or bang) out the old then press in the new, freezing the bearings does help. Let me know if the left side bearing is more rusted and in worse shape than the right. I am thinking if the bike is washed and put on the stand the water migrates to the left side.

Not bad at all, the bore looks great. Just wondering any major work been done to the engine?

Some offer a active damper, in that the faster the bars wobble the more dampening pressure is exerted. BMW uses this on the K1200LT. On this bike if you take your hands off the bars and hit the smallest of bumps a front end shake will happen, the damper kicks in and it does not get out of hand, this I know. I have taken the electric damper off my 2006 cbr1000rr track bike because at high speeds going into a turn it was hard to flick over. I put a GPR on it and yes I have adjusted it at speed with out a problem. Thing is when you get it set to where you forget it I just don't touch it again. Normally if the front end has started a wobble something bad has happened to upset the suspension, give er a little gas it will be OK. I have a 2000 V11 and have put 20,000 miles on it and to me this bike is as rock solid as any I have ever owned, very predictable and fun in the twisties. Just my 2cents worth on the damper.

So how's it going with the clutch job? Been following this thread and was wondering if it is up and running.

Mine had some of the same problems. Twin plate, the rivets had let go, so the friction material was loose. I left the engine in place crabbed the frame pulled out the transmission.

doug m, just wondering if you solved your bikes problem and if so what was it?

I had somthing like that on mine. Turned out to be the clutch friction material came loose at the rivits on the plate. It would also at a stop in first gear when starting out it would enguage, slip, then enguage again. This is a known problem on the earlier bikes most have been replaced. Mine went out @ 14000 mi.

How many miles on the bike? Sure does sound like a failing fuel pump or tank not venting. Fotoguzzi's ideas are the ones I would check first.

I use the BPR6ES I used the iridium plugs thinking more money spent and a hotter spark= better. The iridium plugs got sooty and were not better in my bike. So I went back to the BPR6ES It calls for the resistor so thats what I use.

Down shift,maybe lugging the engine. My bike does not like that low of a rpm range. A happy engine is one more in its power band.

Each time I change the trans fluid I pour a little synthetic trans oil down the cable housing. Remove the cable from the back of the speedo, pull out the cable, clean and lube, reinstall.

Just wondering, anyone who has been running pods for sometime, has anyone had a loss of compression? Has anyone running pods had to rebuild the top ie. rings and jugs? Better yet anyone who has had to rebuild the top due to lack of comperssion chime in and let us know if you are running stock or pods.

When running above 3000 rpm you need 14.2 volts. If it were me I would buy 2 fuses replace the bad one and check the voltage. Get ready to replace the voltage regulator!! Use the second fuse after the regulator has been replaced.

Mine did the same thing, it was the friction plates they came apart at the rivets. A lot of info on replacing the clutch on this forum.

No seal there, its a cut out or wondow to allow rear engine main seal or trans input shaft seal leak to get out of the bell housing. Clean the area well, take it for a ride and see if the seeping continues. No easy fix if the clutch is slipping it will need to be replaced. May as wall replace the seals when you are in there. No not eppoxy use the case sealent and a dime on the leaking trans though eppoxy may work just not sure.

If the oil leak is between the engine and the transmission ie. rear main seal or trans input shaft seal that will cause a slipping clutch. If you look at the bottom of the engine where the trans and engine mate up you will see a little cutout on the line to allow a leak in the bell housing to escape if that is where the leak is its a seal.On the first picture that is the shaft the pawl spring and selector set on. I cleaned it up put sone tribond in, then a dime (it fits) more tribond on the dime and the leak is gone. This was suggested by another on this site and it works.

I have a 20000 V11 and had to replace the clutch at 16,000 miles. The plates had seperated the friction material from the disk. The rivits had failed. On mine it was almost like a two stage clutch, it would start to grip then slip, then grip again when pulling away from a stop. I think this rivit fail was common at one time and has been replaced by most already. Or could just be worn plates. Either way looks like your are going in,took me a weekend, get the parts together, crabb the frame or pull the engine, I crabbed the frame.

Was the motor cold or had it been warmed up? Cold looks ok, if it wat hot may be low. Less than 10% diff between jugs