MartyNZ
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Posts posted by MartyNZ
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Just like GuzziMoto said, if you fit a larger oil cooler, then in normal operation, not much will happen.
The V11 thermostatic oil temperature regulator would be operating the same as before, and it will shut off oil flow through the cooler if the oil is below 71 degC. A larger oil cooler will not cool more than the stock oil cooler unless you operate the engine for extended periods with the thermostat valve fully open, and the oil temp does not stabilise at safe levels.
The regulator begins to open at 71 degC, and is fully open at 85-90 degC. You need better oil cooling if your oil is getting into the range of 160-180 degC (and you should be using fully synthetic oil at those temperatures). A temperature indicating dipstick will tell you how hot your oil is.
As Jan said, oil too cold and too hot are both bad. If your oil is too cool, then the actions of some oil additives is inhibited, and condensation makes sludge form, as well as the obvious engine running clearances. Too hot and lubrication and cooling deteriotates and the oil forms varnish and carbon.
So if you WANT to fit a bigger oil cooler, then you won't do any harm, as it can't cool below 71 degC.
To decide if you NEED to fit a bigger cooler, then you need to collect some data.
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Yes, I got a pale green 03 Sport Naked from Wanganui. The license plate says 04, the VIN says 03, and the build standard looks like an 02. The engine cases are finished in a stylish mix of cement, spacle and tar. It needed a lot of work, and still does, so my riding to wrenching ratio is bad.ahhh hey Martin so ya did get one yeah? ... anyway did you end up with a pale green one?
As they say "Moto Guzzi, making riders into mechanics since 1921".
Luckily this forum saved me from a lot of trials and errors, so I haven't needed to learn how to swear in Italian... except when I was trying to refit the side covers over the stock airbox, or get that grommet back under the alternator cover, or grease that effing front u/joint, or get the injectors out of the throttle bodies, or repair burned electrical connectors, or replace the crankcase ventilation hose, or ...
And I haven't started on pulling the bevel box apart to try fixing backlash.
But what a joy to ride!
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Hey Darryl,
Would you like me to visit, and bring a meter? I know that you have a hammer, so we should have everything needed to fix your bike.
I still blame you for getting me interested in Moto Guzzis. I don't remember all the details, but things got started with that magnificent home brew of yours, then things got foggy, but there was guzzi books, stories, looking at melted pistons, trophies N stuff in the shed.
You will be able to look over my bike at the same time. Your bike may be newer than mine, but hey, mine starts with the push of a button.
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Http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/sports/auction-1052021500.htm
SN 344 for sale in NZ. It must be good, as the price seems high
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Mine also has a stock crossover which is supported by a strong looking rubber isolating mount. It seems reasonable that a crossover without a support would put much greater stress on the muffler clamps.
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Did I just snag the last new titanium exhaust kit ever?!
-Keith
Great looking mufflers! My bike has a set fitted by a previous owner, and I like the style, sound and performance. But you might be interested to know that the skin of the mufflers is thin and soft. They will dent if you frown at them. You may want to check the fit of the clamps before too long.
When I got my bike, one of the mounting clamps had fallen off, and was missing. It scratched the plastic mudguard as it departed. Looking at the clamp locations on both mufflers, I could see that the Titanium Kit clamps had splayed open, and so the bends pressed onto the muffler skin. This dented and wore the mufflers almost all the way through under the clamps at the top. I decided to make a new clamp, as no-one seemed to have parts for this kit. Then I couldn't find a source of the 10mm rubber extrusion that protects the muffler from damage (it doesn't do a very good job). I found some 12 mm rubber, so I made a pair of clamps with wider straps. I used EPDM rubber extrusion as the surface of these glasspack mufflers seems to stay cool (ish), and I made the clamps from 1mm thick titanium/aluminium/vanadium alloy. The clamps have some springyness to allow the cans to move without denting more. I bolted the clamps using new nylock nuts, so they won't fall off like one of the the originals did. This coming winter I'm going to try the repair suggested by waspp http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13524&hl=titanium
I hope that this helps you to keep your Titanio Kit Mufflers looking nice.
Marty
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Thanks czakky. I checked the stator wires, they looked good to my electrically-untrained eye. I hit them with some contact cleaner just to be safe.
I had battery charging problems, and since the Motobat battery had 2012 written on it, I thought it was toast. I bought a Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 to replace it. Then I had the brainwave that I should take advice from this forum before I fitted the new battery, and check the charging circuit. I found a melted 30 amp fuse, and burned connectors on the yellow wire pair between the alternator & regulator. I grounded the regulator as well. Now the old Motobat cranks too well to throw out, and the new Shorai is sitting on the shelf. Sigh.
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...and a third way is to use a screw extractor. It winds into the hole in the metal remains of the sensor housing, and you can unscrew it easily.
I fitted a brass temp sensor housing instead of the plastic one. MG part no. 30163301.
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That works so much better than my attempt. So, one "bulb" and two side arrays? What does that look like with the lens off?
(I'm gonna be owing ya a beer, now, mate!)
Mmm, beer!
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I tried an early made 1157 type LED in my tail light, but it didn't even look like it was on from the side, dim from an angle (only bright straight on). How doea one look from the side, does it illuminate the red lens?
Some pictures from various angles with only the tail light on, not brake, are attached. This partcular 1157 LED lamp does have good side beams. This is the first one I tried that didn't immediately get thrown into the parts bin. There is some real junk that you can buy on Aliexpress.
I also added small arrays of LEDs at the sides of the taillight, taken from a previous attempt to find a good LED lamp. You can just see the light from two 12v arrays connected in series, wired to the taillight circuit, and put in a dark area of the taillight assembly where the reflector casts a shadow.
I am trying to avoid those words:"sorry mate, I didn't see you".
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Since LED technology is changing by the year, wondering who has found an LED (headlight, tail light and turn signals) replacement for the V11 that is plug-n-play?
Vendors?
I bought a LED tail light bulb from: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170527141419&SearchText=LED+red+1157
I'm pretty happy with it. I was going to replace the tail light lens but didn't want to do this until I had a LED lamp which is cooler than the incandescent bulb. The lens has a burnt area just above the bulb.
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Since LED technology is changing by the year, wondering who has found an LED (headlight, tail light and turn signals) replacement for the V11 that is plug-n-play?
Vendors?
I bought a pair of H4 LED lamps from Aliexpress for US$49, free shipping. I only needed 1, but had to buy a pair.
The light is brighter than the Phillips 55/60 watt halogen lamp, but draws less current and stays cooler. Its been in the bike for a week, so I can't say how long it will last yet, but so far I'm happy with it.
It was offset for RH traffic on low beam, so I had to grind the lamp H4 adapter so the offset suited LH traffic in this country. The picture shows the low beam higher on the LH side, but if you drive on the right, then your lamp & headlight lens will make the low beam higher on the right.
The heatsink that all high power LEDs need is large loops of copper braid on this lamp. This fits well into the V11 Sport Naked headlight bucket. There is no cooling fan or clearance problem from an aluminium heatsink.
The LUX readings shown in the picture attachment were from an app on my phone taken at 1 metre. I can't say it is accurate, but it could be good for comparison.
Moto Fugazzi Ken said that blue light is not great in fog or rain. The LED colour is bluish, but I haven't tried it in the fog or rain. Its still summer out here.
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Roy, Canada did the right thing with their flag. The current one is great, unlike their first effort. I think NZ should change to the new proposed flag. If nothing else, the fuss should get people out to vote at the next election.
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You could carry a 90 degree adapter, and use it for checking tire pressure. It could be handy until you get the valve stems you want. I got a pair at a RV and Camper supplies store in Idaho.
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I have been looking forward to this trip for over a year, it's finally less than a week away.
The Fanau is particularly thin on the ground down the South Island.
Thanks
Roy
I'll look out for you as you pass through Christchurch. I sent you a PM, and an email, so hopefully one will get to you.
Watch out for tourists who are used to driving on the right forgetting to keep left in NZ. It is easy to forget, especially after a stop on a deserted country road. I know that I got onto the left when visiting Eastern Washington, USA. Luckily the guy I met gave me a friendly wave (at least that's what I think it was
).There are lots of roads in the South Island where there is low traffic, but the odd tourist camper van driven by someone who more comfortable in a city could ruin your day.
Or a wandering sheep.
Now this is important: NZ is in a turmoil over whether we should change the flag. You will need to have an opinion on this before you get to a NZ pub.
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Kiwi Roy,over the winter I will try to find a suitable bush.
Let me know if you would like me to send you a piece of brass tube I used to make a repair bush. I have some left over.
Marty.
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Does anyone have a set of Joe Kenny head guards for sale, or know of a retailer who has a set? These are to suit a square fin big block Moto Guzzi V11. I think that these are the best looking guards I've seen, but I can't find any for sale.
It seems that Joe's website damico.swva.net is still active, but his email on the website returns a fatal error message.
Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks, Marty.
Edit: Motociclo in Sydney Australia had some. Apparently they bought the last of Joe Kenny stock, so have more.
Their website is a bit average, but I gave them a ring, and they were very helpful.
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Hey Zooter,
If you are in Christchurch, you are welcome to borrow some V11 tuning tools I have. Give me a ring on (021) 135 1023.
I bought the cables so I can use the GuzziDiag software on a little netbook. That is a slick program.
I made a breakout harness to measure TPS voltage from pieces of dead Fiat, so you can measure voltage accurately. This voltage is repeated in GuzziDiag, but if you hook up an analogue meter you may see flickering of the needle as you move the throttle, which could tell you that the TPS has intermittent contact. It is harder to see eratic TPS output with a digital readout.
And you can borrow the manometer to check synchronizing; it's not pretty but it works.
Marty.
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I notice that the workshop manual for my V11 says that the gear height is 16mm, while that aftermarket pump claims to have "15mm impeller for high flow volume".
I cannot see how the aftermarket pump can have "high flow volume" using 1mm narrower gears unless the gear diameter is larger than the stock pump.
Are you sure the aftermarket pump is better than stock? Perhaps it is larger than earlier pump versions in the engine on older models, but not the V11.
Shop manual ref Sect M, Oil Pump 7, Pg14 says
Gear height 15.973 - 16.032.
Housing cavity 16.032 - 16.075.
Gear diameter 26.25 - 26.29. -
Here is a picture of the RH throttle body link rod ball socket options that I tried, and work well.
Mercedes Benz P/N A0009930461, and Volvo P/N 946703 ball socket.
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As suggested, I tried Volvo Part 946703 ball socket on the RH throttle body. This Volvo Part fits perfectly just as the Mercedes part 0009930461 does. I used the Volvo part instead of the Mercedes part, as it is plastic, and has a groove in it which can retain grease, and catch grit. I now have a spare Mercedes rod end to give away if anyone wants it. PM me.The plastic throttle link rod ball socket on my 03 V11 had 1mm slop. Thanks to the tip on this forum, I went to the local Mercedes dealer here in New Zealand. After a 5 day wait for shipping, they supplied a metal ball socket which is a perfect fit, costing NZ$21.44. They tell me that this part is common to many MB cars 1970-1980.
MB P/N A0009930461.
This is a different P/N from the longer one mentioned by BruceReader > Todd of MPH > P/N 0009918822.
I'd prefer to fit a plastic socket if I could, as the plastic seems to wear instead of the ball. The ball will be harder to repair after another 80,000km if this hardened metal socket will wear the ball. Meantime, I'll have to keep it greased.
The original plastic ball socket weights 2g, but the MB part is 9g. Being me, I couldn't leave it alone, so I ground wrench flats on it, which got it down to 8g but then I had to paint it black.
I hope that this is helpful, and thanks for all the other excellent contributions.
Marty
Then I made a brass bush for LH throttle lever connection to the link rod. The brass insert in the LH throttle body arm was worn enough that the LH throttle opened before the RH throttle and TPS began to move. I bored the brass insert to take a thin wall brass bush made from a section from an old telescopic radio antenna. Now that there is no noticable play in either the LH link or the RH ball & socket, I expect synchronizing will be easier at both idle and higher RPM.
Ta, Marty.
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I haven't looked, but I'd try Blacks Fasteners. http://www.blacksfasteners.co.nz/An exact fit beats modding the other one. Should get a mod to edit the original.
Got a source for the hex replacements of the TPS torx screws by any chance? Mine are already half munted.
The plastic throttle link rod ball socket on my 03 V11 had 1mm slop. Thanks to the tip on this forum, I went to the local Mercedes dealer here in New Zealand. After a 5 day wait for shipping, they supplied a metal ball socket which is a perfect fit, costing NZ$21.44. They tell me that this part is common to many MB cars 1970-1980.
MB P/N A0009930461.
This is a different P/N from the longer one mentioned by BruceReader > Todd of MPH > P/N 0009918822.
I'd prefer to fit a plastic socket if I could, as the plastic seems to wear instead of the ball. The ball will be harder to repair after another 80,000km if this hardened metal socket will wear the ball. Meantime, I'll have to keep it greased.
The original plastic ball socket weights 2g, but the MB part is 9g. Being me, I couldn't leave it alone, so I ground wrench flats on it, which got it down to 8g but then I had to paint it black.
I hope that this is helpful, and thanks for all the other excellent contributions.
Marty
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The plastic throttle link rod ball socket on my 03 V11 had 1mm slop. Thanks to this forum, I went to the local Mercedes dealer here in New Zealand. After a 5 day wait for shipping, they supplied a metal ball socket which is a perfect fit, costing NZ$21.44. They tell me that this part is common to many MB cars 1970-1980. MB P/N A0009930461.
This is a different P/N from the longer one mentioned by BruceReader > Todd of MPH > P/N 0009918822, which may be just as good.
I'd prefer to fit a plastic socket if I could, as the plastic seems to wear instead of the ball. The ball will be harder to repair after another 80,000km if this hardened metal socket will wear the ball. Meantime, I'll have to keep it greased.
The original plastic ball socket weights 2g, but the MB part is 9g. Being me, I couldn't leave it alone, so I ground wrench flats on it, which got it down to 8g but then I had to paint it black.
I hope that this is helpful, and thanks for all the other excellent contributions.
Marty
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What did you do to your V11 today?
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Walterg, I had that problem, but I couldn't manage an "intelligent look". My troubleshooting was more like desperate wriggling of wires & swapping relays. Back home I found two spade sockets in one of the relay bases were pushed back, and only touching the relay terminals tip to tip. Now I'm doing KiwiRoy's relay base repair. You might want to look at his advice here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15718&hl=%2Brelay+%2Bbase+%2Brepair