Tim

hi - answering my own question here - found a company who will rebuild the WP shock for just under £100 (service and regas). They are called K-Tech and are based in Leicestershire (UK). Just got to remove and post it to them. Looks fairly striaghtforward to remove and refit.... Thanks for the suggestion re the Wilbers but I can't afford to buy one

Took the Guzzi to France last weekend for the Le Mans 24hr bike race. On the way noticed slight difference in rear end and a suspicious looking oil slick under the shock. By the time the return journey came all damping was lost and , while smooth roads were OK, any slighlty rough roads had me pogoing all over the place. I assume the shock on my 2000 V11 is rebuildable - any advice or recommendations for rebuild v replacement and any recommendations for companies who do this sort of work - preferable in striking distance of west london. As usual all thoughts, advice and suggstions welcomed Tim

erm I think he's already done that...

Yes I thought shifting was crisper but the annoying whine in top gear (been like that since I got it) seems to be a bit more noticeable. Could be my imagination though as I didn't have a tank bag on which seems to absorb noise. still no puddle appeared

Eventually got round to putting in the redline shockproof heavy and went for a run. Early indications are that the leak has disappeared. I only filled up to half way up the gearbox window will post again after I've ridden a good few more miles

Dear Guzzisti I got the dreaded gearbox leak the other day on my stock 2000 V11 sport. I've done over 22,000 miles and the bike has been relatively trouble free in that time. Gearbox oil was changed just over a year ago with Rock oil synthetic 75/90 so I can't think its due to overfilling. I've looked up the gearbox threads and there seems to be a range of possiblites from changing to redline shcok proof heavy via tightening things to entire replacement of gearbox due to cracking . I'm going to have a close inspection this weekend so I wondered was if anyone has ideas about how to diagnose what the actual problem is. The different reasons for leaks all seem to have the same symptoms. Also anyone any views on the extent to which it can be ignored (I can live with a small leak if its not going to result in any dire consequences). As usual all views and comments gratefully recieved Tim

Stripped the front wheel and found the inner spacer 10 thou too short. I hadn't time to get a new spacer or get one machined up so I found a 20 thou shim which gave me the slight over size as recommended by Roperman. Hopefully this should extend the pathetically short wheel bearing life I've experienced so far. Now to sort out the indicator failure.... Tim

thanks Raz - obviously I didn't look hard enough is the spacer length there as well?

I searched the site but couldn't find the spec for the fron wheel bearings (lunched after 3000 miles). Also has anyone got the correct length for the spacer that leves inbetween the bearings as I think I might have one of the problem ones - although I thought it wasn't a probelm on the 2000 models! Indicators all stopped working at the same time - is that the relay or a fuse? grateful for all assisatance Tim

rawbolts are the answer - see my thread on this in late 2006. Use heat (hairdryer) on the hub and drive the bearing out... it might take few goes. Put the new bearings in the freezer and heat the hub again and drive the new bearings in using a pipe/socket/MG service tool on the outer race then get out on the road! Tim

The l/h rear indicator has broken on my 2000 V11. I've been looking for a replacement - I seem to remeber that some triumph models use the same indicator - can anyone enlighten me? Tim

Hi Folks - the Manitou fork lift truck grease gun attachemnt arrived - don't get too excited it's basically an oversized hypodermic needle but if it works it will be worth it I've attached a pictue for Belfastguzzi's benefit - however I won't be able to tell you whether it works as I'm on holiday for a few days....

I prefer the term "dodge" to " bodge"!

I've found a fairly successful method of bearing removal that works well, even with blind bearings. You need to use a thing called a rawbolt - a type of fixing that is used for bolting things to walls or concrete floors etc. You will find them stocked at building supply places although they may be called something else where you live. You need the type with a stud and nut rather than the bolt type and try and get one that is as close to the inner diameter of your inner race as possible. Simply stick it in the hole (oo er missus!) and tighten up as much as you dare and then (after warming the hub) drift the bearing out with a suitably large lump hammer. it might take two or three goes before it works - often you don't tighten it enough at first - but persevere, it does work! When you replace the bearings it's a good idea to put the new bearings in the freezer as well as warming the hub as they slip in nice and easy then(oo oo er missus!) Also always replace both bearings Good luck

I've tracked down the grease gun attachement for a Manitou fork lift truck - it's quite expensive at £18.44 + VAT (about £22 in all) but what the hell - if it works it will be worth it. I'm ordering it this week and I'll let you know how I get on with it once it arrives - Belfastguzzi wanted a picture which I'll sort out when I get it

There's a review in today's Motorcycle News (UK bike weekly) giving it four stars out of five. However it acknowledges that it is slow and at 95bhp putting out substantially less than any other "sport" bike (excluding Harleys). In addition it weighs 31kg more than a BMW R1200R! Cost is estimated at £7695. Two quotes from the article "The new 1200 Sport is a proper hairy-chested man's bike and on the road this beefy hunk of steel is truly Guzzi's best yet" and "The Sport is one big mutha" looks nice as well!!

thanks for the advice - I'm going to try the Manitou fork lift grease gun attachment first - I've located a dealer in the UK so I'll give them a call tomorrow and let you know how I get on Graham/Guzzijack - was that your Centauro I saw at Crewekerne last weekend? regards Tim

Sorry to raise this age old topic but I'm having trouble finding a grease gun in the UK that will fit the shaft drive nipples/zerks and the job is long overdue. Has anyone in the UK found a solution - if so please let me know where I can get one (I'm based in West London - ish) regards Tim

erm I've just done the valve clearances on my 2000 V11 sport but I don't use a torque wrench I just do it by "feel" so i'm afraid i'm not much use to you on that score. However my method for adjusting the clearwnce is simply to back off or advance the adjustemet screw with my fingers while the locknut is loose and then tighten it (the locknut) and recheck the clearance with the feeler gauge until the clearance is a "nippy fit" ie you push in the blade of the feeler gauge and it snags slightly. hope this helps

sorry to go off guzzi but what in the name of J***s is that monster in front of the Le Mans Scammel, Mackor what? Tim the truckhead

I think this may have been covered before but how do you remove the fork caps - do they just unscrew or is it trickier than that - any special tools needed? also what's the proper valve clearances for a stock UK 2000 V11S? should I go with the book spec? grateful for any help Tim

Thought I'd start a new thread with a confession A couple of weeks ago (and, needless to say, when in a bit of a hurry) I got on the V11, switched on the ignition, thumbed the start button and...nothing. Quick mental check of possible faults - couldn't think of anything obvious so tried again...still nothing. tried once more - yet again nothing Sinking feeling starts c/w thoughts of missed appointments, breakdown recovery calls, time spent fault finding etc etc. I sat there for a few minutes, by now resigned to my day having gone tits up then I realised - jeez - I hadn't pulled the clutch in! (I have owned the bike for quite a while so no excuse there). Needless to say the old boot fired up straightaway. Doh! So the big question is - am I on my own here or are there other "forum fools" out there?

Apologies for the delay - I only just got round to refitting the battery and - hey presto it fired straight into life. my diagnosis?? I'd say damp and a battery on the margins/slowed down by cold conditions. I'll see how the battery performs in the future...its days may be numbered though. So - if your steed exhibits the same symptoms as mine then - spray plug caps, HT leads and coil with WD40 or equivalent but once you hear that solenoid clicking I'd say you should cut your losses, whip out the battery and charge or replace it. Also I believe that electronic ignition needs a decent voltage to work. I don't think relays were to blame in this particular instance. I fitted Edge's shock absorber guards while I was at it - very neat and straghtforward to fit

Went out today and wiggled the relays and sprayed the plug caps and coil with WD40. Tried the starter but the engine only managed a few revolutions before making a rapid clicking noise. The weather is a bit colder so I reckon the battery has given out. I've whipped it out and put it on my little 12 volt charger which read 14 volts when I switched on and settled at 2 amps charge rate. I'll let it run for a couple of hours today then give it another dose tomorrow. I'll see if that gets it to start. On the positive side it means I can fit the Edge's "B guard" while the battery is out I'll send an update tomorrow