knumbnutz
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Posts posted by knumbnutz
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11 minutes ago, docc said:
Oh, I have to agree. Every time I see "designer photo shoots" of sexy bikes they don't have ANY mirrors. Certainly no registration tags and usually no turn signals/"winkers." Minimal lights and instruments, even.
Don't get me started how I think my Tekno panniers look like Cindy Crawford in muck boots and a slicker . . .
I feel the same about hardtails and bikes without mudguards/fenders.
But each to their own. Styling cues are individual otherwise we may as well be riding a honda
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Is that the difference between standard and single plate?
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*Not mine but ducati basket
rider was undoubted deaf
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12 minutes ago, docc said:
That is such superb explanation.
What has always led me askew is the use of the term "engaged" (versus "disengaged"). Must agree with footgoose on this: "engaging" the control lever disengages the clutch (and twin plates with intermediate plate rattles and will beat hell out of the gearbox input hub). Lever out in neutral (or underway) and the clutch plates are all "engaged" with no rattle, no hub damage.
Can we agree that the clutch, itself, is "engaged" when the lever is out and all of the clutch components are gathered together by the spring pressure?
As highlighted above, I would suggest, "Pulling in the clutch lever disengages the clutch, itself."
And this, Chuck, "Bump it into neutral and release the lever as much as possible. That will reduce wear of the flywheel, clutch splines, and transmission input splines." is true wisdom. For some of us, hard won . . .
Well, thats interesting.. Basically the same as a ducati clutch but in reverse.. I was thinking the rattle might come from the plate rivets or somewhere in that part, not the gearbox spline.
There was no wear on mine here.
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16 minutes ago, Chuck said:
Think about how the clutch works. There are two clutch plates with an intermediate plate between them held together by a pressure plate and springs. All three are located in the flywheel by splines. The inner splines fit the transmission input shaft splines. Engaging the clutch frees the plates. They are free to rattle back and forth because of the uneven firing order of the Guzzi engine. Naturally, as they do this, you can hear them. What you don't want to do is leave the clutch "engaged" for any length of time because of this. Bump it into neutral and release the lever as much as possible. That will reduce wear of the flywheel, clutch splines, and transmission input splines.
Well I understand this, but more specifically, the ducati friction plates are steel and the clutch baskets are aluminium. The plates wear groves into the baskets thereby creating more and mor play for the plates to move in. Every 30K - 60K you would not just be replacing the plates, but the hub as well. Some aftermarket companies like barnett offer stainless steel baskets to offset the wear.
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No idea on the clutch rattle, mine doesn't really rattle at all, clutch in or out. It was a 2001 LeMans originally.
I know why a ducati clutch rattles, thats easy to see, but I wouldnt quite expect the same for the guzzi clutch.
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59 minutes ago, docc said:
That would make me worry . . .
I can hear it, but its not exactly ducati dry clutch rattle.
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5 hours ago, Tinus89 said:
Leave the middle bolt loose so it can slide, turn the bars to full lock left, move the damper all the way until it bottoms out, move it back by 3-5mm, tighten middle slider nut?
@knumbnutz: how come your V11 does not have any clutch rattle?
no idea.... its never rattled
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9 hours ago, hammershaug said:
Big mistake to remove/remake the air box? I've seen a lot of users here with big K&N filters...?
Yeah, i read a lot of people say that. I never rode my sport long enough to know what it rode like before I modified it ie: I didnt even ride more than 5mins before I hit diesel and wound up in hospital then got it on the road 12months later in a modified state. So I had no reference point of how well it worked or fuelled or how much power.
After getting it going again, maybe a month or two afterwards, Scud came to visit and I asked how does it compare. It was probably how to tell, because the suspension really needed work as I had a new shock not setup and at least 10+kg lighter, but he said it was probably same, maybe slightly better. Scud seemed to love my duke at the time, the seat was certainly more comfortable than the first iteration of my V11 seat!
The friend who I bought my V11 off, also has a Coppa Italia and he thought it was much better than before and slightly better than the Coppa.
But recently I bought a Cafe Sport with Ti pipes, tuned ecu from Cliff Jefferies and its otherwise in standard form and I gave it a service when I got it.
This confirmed to me riding the two side by side that my bike is more responsive and made more power even with a slight lag from 2Krpm to 3Krpm (running rich).Then I put the Meinholf map in which took away the lag and added lower and midrange power.
So to answer a couple of questions that havent been asked, I made velocity stacks that the filters sit on, the filters don't go directly on the intake side of the throttle bodies and I suspect that this is likely why people say the engines don't like pod filters. If they are bolted straight on, sure, it won't be good.
Also, yes, the pods are huge on mine because the mouth of the pod fits over the velocity stack. So it has a huge space inside and a huge surface area - would be greater than the original airfilter - to pull air from. No if you were to use pod filters which just fit over the intake side of the throttle bodies, then both the internal pod space and the filter surface area would be greatly different to my setup, not to mention no velocity stack.
If there is any downside to running pods and velocity stacks over the airbox, then I'm yet to see it.
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4 minutes ago, 80CX100 said:
Tks for posting the videos and sharing the info.
Your build has a very brutal look and sound, nicely done.
I can't believe the ringing sound of fine crystal, coming from those timing gears, completely unexpected.
I'm behind in my job list, but I intend to install meinholf's map very soon myself, I'm curious what valve clearances you used.
Tks
Kelly
Just standard valve clearances. Actually I must check them again, thanks for the reminder although its probably only been 2500klms since I last checked
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Got the modified V11 back up and running after a bunch of little changes and fixes.
Gear drives from Joe Caruso fitted. Not without much angst.... (gears were beautiful but a stripped thread on the pump was a $400 fix.)
Change the handlebar switches. I had the right indicator switch on the right side for a bit of symmetry but in practice, I virtually had to take my hand off the throttle to press it and at least on one memorable occasion hit the kill switch instead... not fun in the middle of a roundabout ! needless to say, its all bak on the left side again.
Installed a Meinholf map. Boy did that bring out some midrange power ! Got to be 15% more from 2500 to 4500rpm and fixed the flat spot off idle. Bravo , thanks Meinholf.
Made some industrial looking headlight holders after the originals broke. That bought the headlight lower and closer to the headstock and has given a bit lighter feeling on the steering as hoped.
Added a fuel pump relay as originally I wired it so that when the ignition is on, so is the pump. Fine 99% of the time, but I think now having the relay is no major issue, but it is one extra thing to go wrong and we all know those relays are the source of some issues.
Replaced a faulty speedo pick up.
Replaced the front brake and clutch master cylinders and reservoirs with some nice discacciati cnc beauties. Replaced the brake and clutch lines to suit the new setup.
Zinging the gear... the gear would just keep ringing for almost as long as i left it. Heres a quick video of it.
[vid]
[vid]
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Jackal rim - steel and tubed
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ok, now I remember why I would go Cali rims as opposed to jackal.
Cali rims are tubeless jackal rims are not
pic of cali rear.
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I have thought long and hard about getting spoked wheels for the V11 and a couple of things are putting me off.
Firstly cali wheels seem to be more appropriate, the rear is a 17in 3.5ich wide, same as the standard V11 front and the front cali hub is twin disc, so maybe they can fit. Back rim on front hub.
Then find a rim for the back.
But spokes would definitely look good I think.
oh, and whats putting me off is the expense, since there doesnt seem to be anything that just bolts on
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Hey Phil,
Just a question since you have it apart, would drilling and threading at the small end in a lathe and putting a stop in along the axis work?
Could be adjusted for height this way.
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I'll have to revisit this shot with my duke but with my guzzi. I liked it.. colours seem to match
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SEXY beast
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... I may have googled Tanya Dexters for research purposes
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So I guess, the V11 Playboy EE had very satisfied customers
I love the translation quirks !
"Each Moto Guzzi was called a "character engine" in tests. A pet name for motorcycles where everything was wrong but it was forgiven because it was a Moto Guzzi. The finish of the machines was generally reasonable, but they were all wrong." - TRUE LOL
"in 2001 the California 1100 EV80 was released, which was designed in collaboration with the furniture designer Poltrona Frau." - no wonder it handles like a couch
"The Le Mans referred in name to the older Moto Guzzi Le Mans, whose production had already ended in 1993, but was less spectacular in design." - haha
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about time I mentioned the cafe sport was the greatest variant...
There are two kinds of people in this world, those who have a Cafe Sport and those that want one
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The MilleGT is basically a California. There's heavy junk on it everywhere.Wow, very interesting. A couple of questions, please:
“gearbox bracing”, does this refer to the triangular bracket that is shown in the parts catalog diagrams yet is missing from so many red frame V11s? Something else...a mod?
How are you able to shave off 35kg? That seems like a lot! I would really love and appreciate to see or hear/read how this is done and results on these fun but a bit portly rides.
Thanks!
I got rid of everything that wasn't necessary, then used a fibreglass front guard, tank and seat. Used a smaller powerful and lighter battery and shaved 4.5kg off the flywheel.
On the V11, I made a light aluminium subframe and only a single seat.
Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk
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I have the early frame with gearbox bracing and it shows no sign of instability.
Now Im putting that down to a couple of things but mostly weight distribution.
On my modified bike I have a reasonable change in weight. The battery sits under the tank now and the subframe is about 1.6kg compared to 10+kg of the original, so it is now more bias on the front.
Years ago when I built my modified MilleGT, I did a similar lightening job, overall reducing about 35kg off it. But the weight loss was both front and back.
I assembled it with the same rake and trail as the original and it was very unstable, every bump out of a corner would give a small headshake, to the point I was considering a steering dampener as at this stage I'd only ridden it around the block.
I dropped the triple tree over the forks by 12mm and it was a totally different bike. Better steering, stable, no headshake or weave at any speed.
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Actually I have to disagree..
The tank is the part thats 20mm longer. All guzzi have done is hide this by making to frame fit the longer tank. Mario on the production line made the longer tanks to fit the fuel pump and simply got luigi who makes the frames to cover for him.
So it's no tanks to mario
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Post a pic of your V11 - No words
in 24/7 V11
Posted
LOL.. nothing against Hondas as such, they are some of my favs like the V4 VFR800 98-01 model, but there are soooooooo many of them. Sort of takes the individual part out of it.