JesterGrin_1
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Posts posted by JesterGrin_1
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Looks GREAT. And I have to say it again I sure like that carbon fiber/fiberglass front fender. Along with the benefit of helping to protect the forks wear areas.
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What about the Dunlop Q3's? There seems to be many good reports on them.
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Kiwi Roy that is darn nice. Or maybe it is because I am new to all this stuff.
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Just now I have a Rosso Mandelo clutch on my workbench, tomorrow can I post here some pictures. I´am looking for a new friction disc, in whole Europe is only "fan design" RAM disc available http://hmb-guzzi.de/Clutch-disc-RAM-single-disc-clutch. Have somebody experience with this part? Or source for clasicc "round design" disc?
I have not had experience with that type of clutch plate with a Guzzi but I have used that type and manufacturer in other applications and I have to say for performance and longevity it will be darn hard to beat. The advantage is that they are usually a little lighter in reciprocating weight of which helps gear shifts. The wear pads can be replaced by a good clutch shop if so needed in the future thus saving money. The one part that is very different is that when they get hot they can get a bit grabby or to say they are not known to slip like the fiber discs do. I would mention to keep an eye on flywheel wear but I really do not feel that would be a concern with a Moto Guzzi.
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Ok let me attempt to get this right lol. The stock air box is fine with the addition of the K&N CG-9002 air filter but the Pods add looks and noise?
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I purchased some Tekno saddle bags from Moto Fugazzi and I have to say not only did things go well but he proved to be as anal about packing stuff as I am or to say over kill to do his best to make sure they made it to there destination in good shape. As we all know can be a challenge with shippers today.
Moto Fugazzi is not only a good member here but a standup member that is a pleasure to deal with.
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As I go over my 100,000+ mile Sport, I'm trying to share what I find and give everyone a chance to look their V11 over for some possible issues. We've discussed a lot of the these things in the distant past.
For instance, while addressing my regulator case grounds, I noticed one of the oil cooler lines had found a new place to saw into the timing chest.
I had added quite a few strategically placed "Zip-ties" as rub guards, but needed to add a couple more. Some of the older ones are getting quite thin. Not every V11 has the lines routed like mine, apparently, but they are worth inspecting regularly and preventing them from developing a leak.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15645&p=172630
Depending on the size and room I have used a piece of fuel line and or radiator hose and to retain them as you did with zip ties. Or if I was feeling really energetic I would make holders out of aluminum and or HDPE.
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Here's the MRA on my LeMans.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19319&p=214541
It's better body protection than stock, but more wind noise. I am 6' 0". I find it easier to tuck under, but again, a bit noisier when sitting upright.
You should also consider the laminar lip - a windshield addition, not a replacement.
I will keep the laminar lip in mind as well.
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I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine.
Why? They are *much* better when hot. No contest.
Ok not counting Air Craft lol.But for an Air Cooled Engine on the ground I would avoid full synthetics.
Everybody is intitled to be completely wrong I guess, and I respect your right to be so.
Ciao
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I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine.
Why? They are *much* better when hot. No contest.
Ok not counting Air Craft lol.But for an Air Cooled Engine on the ground I would avoid full synthetics.
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I can explain a wheelie, but my last one threw me off and broke my leg. So much for knowledge.
Hey we all make an oops now and then lol. My last wheelie I had a big oops on was right at 135MPH and broke my darn walkman lol. That was on a little warmed over 79 Honda CBX around oh 26 years ago lol.
And yes we can explain it but I find it does not help lol. So I refrain from doing so except to tell them get a dirt bike and go out and practice. And thus either they learn how or after they break a few bones they give up and go to easier stuff lol.
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I use a 160 for quicker turn in
After some reading I have noted that many have gone with the 160 rear tire due to handling qualities. Plus it helps the wallet a bit as well I would think.
Never thought of the 170 though. I guess if the tire manufacturer had a tire of that size it would give a compromise between the 160 and 180.
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I will add to this that in our systems say a replacement of 1/2 quart of full synthetic will help not only flow but HP and wear as well while retaining most of the good qualities of heat displacement and save money.
On one test we did was of course a Super charged race small block chevy. With just replacing 1 quart with full synthetic it would gain us about 7 to 8 HP. While full synthetic would gain us just a hair over 8 HP. And so because of fuel contamination in the fuel one can only run the oil a few runs before it should be changed. So by doing this saves a good deal of coin.
As for Air Cooled these tests were done by Gene Berg of VW Type 1 fame. I also tried these tests years ago to confirm this and by golly ole Gene was correct.
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Jester - your talking about a pointy-lid, right? Along those lines, you can also use a top from a water bottle - the kind that seals when you push it back down. Carry that under your seat. Then you can put that on any oil bottle, tip it upside down, open the valve, and squirt it into the crankcase.
As for oil on the road, try to get as close to what you are running as possible, but... If the bike is low any oil will do till the next change. You can even mix organic and synthetic. You can buy synthetic blended oils - so I don't know why people worry about mixing them.
Scud good idea.
I forget which thread I commented on but for myself and with some High HP Air Cooled engine work in my past I would highly recommend against Full Synthetic in a Moto Guzzi. Full Synthetic oils do not carry nor dissipate heat very well. If one would check head temperatures they will notice that the temperature of the head will be significantly higher with synthetic oil than a dino oil due to the heat transfer qualities of the oils. But if you check the oil temperature it will be lower again due to the fact that it does not acquire the heat nor dissipate the heat very well at all.
But hey run what you like.
But here in South TEXAS it does get a little warm in the summer months so Heat can be a huge concern. -
Having read on multiple occasions that V11s tended to come from the factory with very little grease, I was disappointed, but not surprised to find the steering bearings in this sparsely-greased condition. In fact, I recently heard a little squeaking from the steering head.
There's a lot of grease in there now. But I can't find a torque-spec for the nut on the spindle that puts pressure on the bearings. Coincidentally I recently snugged up the steering bearings in my BMW, and it uses exactly the same 32mm nut. The BMW manual specifies 45nm (33lb/ft). I used that on the V11 and the lower triple-clamp moves smoothly, but with some resistance. Just looking for a little confirmation or further advice before I assemble stuff on top of this.
I have always done neck bearings as one would do the old style wheel bearings. I would tighten up the nut till you feel resistance then simply back off a hair and set it there. As you notice it is mostly feel. Some like the steering head bearings tight while of course others like them loose.
I could tell you my rule of thumb but in the end it is really personal feel.
I do mine like this too.
Well of coarse you do. It is pretty much a given since you do wood work thus one tends to work with there hands and over the years you have learned feel without even knowing it. It is very hard to show these types of things or even explain them. But we do try lol.
But then again there are many things with machines that require feel or to say it helps. Just as in when one is operating a machine. But this is a very small percentage as it is hard to explain to someone that if one simply listens to the machine it will tell you what to do and when.
Go ahead and try to explain to someone how to do a wheel stand lol. Ok do one without getting hurt lol.
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Why not use the cap with the small funnel from a gear oil bottle and simply screw that onto the oil bottle? Of course it depends on the Oil bottle lol.
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I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine.
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Having read on multiple occasions that V11s tended to come from the factory with very little grease, I was disappointed, but not surprised to find the steering bearings in this sparsely-greased condition. In fact, I recently heard a little squeaking from the steering head.
There's a lot of grease in there now. But I can't find a torque-spec for the nut on the spindle that puts pressure on the bearings. Coincidentally I recently snugged up the steering bearings in my BMW, and it uses exactly the same 32mm nut. The BMW manual specifies 45nm (33lb/ft). I used that on the V11 and the lower triple-clamp moves smoothly, but with some resistance. Just looking for a little confirmation or further advice before I assemble stuff on top of this.
I have always done neck bearings as one would do the old style wheel bearings. I would tighten up the nut till you feel resistance then simply back off a hair and set it there. As you notice it is mostly feel. Some like the steering head bearings tight while of course others like them loose.
I could tell you my rule of thumb but in the end it is really personal feel.
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Is that your new Porkchop Guard lol.
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Well, first.. it's a Guzzi. It won't burn oil.
If you're on a trip, run what's in it until you return if you are using a quality synthetic. Mobil 1 Vtwin is available anywhere if you really need it.Very good to hear. Thank You.
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I always use 1/2 bottle blue STP due to the old time design of the V11 engine. Push rods and lifters.
A few years back their was a rash of problems with cams and lifters.
Don't know for sure if the STP helps, but have you ever tried to wash it off of your hands?
Just as an FYI and not related but STP is a fantastic lube for firearms. A friend of mine has over 60,000 rounds through his competition Ruger Super Blackhawk in .44 Magnum. And the rounds are not puff loads lol. I could give you the load if you are in fear of Bears lol.
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That is what the flash in the pan now calls the Street Fighter look. Maybe it is my age but not my cup of Tea. But what I think or others should not matter as each person has there likes and of course dislikes lol.
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I understand the benefits of the best oils such as RedLine but other than carrying an extra quart of oil for top off at fuel stops I have been wondering if there was an easy to find Oil that is sold at most auto parts stores and or gas stations that would suit the V11 just as well?
I ask as I have seen more than a few riders that go on extended rides but do not mention there oil of choice when doing so.
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"Uncle Scud" will send a couple of those to you tomorrow.
Scud as a back up if you can not find both of them and if this person should still need them I will make them out of aluminum.
Installing SpeedHut gauges
in How to...
Posted
Great Work Fellows as always.