JesterGrin_1
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Posts posted by JesterGrin_1
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Perhaps that joke needs explaining?
When I was a kid the idea was to tie a string around your tooth, tie the other end to the door knob and slam the door.
This will scare me if people did not get it and you had to explain it lol.
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If this is such a big problem both in the stand point of mechanical failure and of what could be personal injury has not Moto Guzzi made this right under warranty? Or have they simply not been sued for a faulty product as of yet?
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Jester - did you find a guard yet? I have at least one damaged OEM guard that I could send your way.
By the way, what do you mean by "...request of a Door Knob Tooth Puller?"
Thank You for the offer Scud but I can wait for the ones on the bike when it shows up. Just my ADD showing lol.
Door Knob Tooth Puller, Dentist lol.
Just a funny Ha Ha lol. -
A replaceable wear item?
Just how often do you intend to fall off LOL
Heck with my physical problems I hope to keep it down to one time a day lol.
On second thought I have not see crash bars for the LeMans? Maybe some with small wheels lol. -
Sound like success. But you won't know for sure till you give it a proper flogging. Grover Beach to Taft via 58 and back via 166 should do it.
Or heck jump on Interstate 10 east to Florida and check out the Keys and ride back.
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I go to the "follow this topic" at the upper right corner of each topic, on every one I want to follow. I don't know any other way to do it.
Ok Thank You. As dummy me thought if I checked the correct boxes it would automatically follow topics I posted and or replied to. Silly me lol.
Well I just looked and what is says is I can unfollow this topic lol. So it should work by automatic. Maybe I need to uncheck all of those boxes and then manually select each topic to follow?
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Forum Notifications? For some odd reason I do not receive any forum notifications to my e mail even after checking all of the boxes lol. Can someone that is knowledgeable in this area help out?
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However, I grossly underestimated the time and effort required to remove all the crinkle paint.
Come on knowing that Moto Guzzi would replace the cases with new ones back in the day under warranty must have given some indication that it would have been a bit of a pain lol. But hey you are having fun.
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I am sorry but I am still a little set back to the fact you ride this time of year in Minnesota lol.
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Ok well when I eventually get one of these in my sweaty hands what I plan on doing is maybe making a new set of course with a hand saw and file and drill press lol. And then fitting a piece of HDPE Delrin to the outside by using a groove just as thick as the head guard to slide into and retain them with a couple of through bolts stainless steel of course. That way the HDPE Delrin will give a bit more space between the important parts of the head and spark plug and resistor and yet be a replaceable wear item.
I know the material comes in Black and White but by request of a Door Knob Tooth Puller I am going to look into Red lol.
On a side note I have seen some with those round things like the sport bikes use but I really feel they look out of place on these types of Moto Guzzies and they look butt ugly lol.
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Dang I remember seeing something on this on another informative MG maintenance site. They showed replacing the O ring and using a bit of RTV on the clean sealing surfaces before reassembly?
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Little update - got the deep socket yesterday. The timing gears are out and I'm going to start stripping the engine paint today. There's nothing like having a proper tool - and I'd be happy to loan it as needed.
Yesterday I also received a nifty new fuel injector cleaner (also available for loan):
I sent MartyNZ a pair of injector plugs from an old wiring harness and he made them into these fabulous injector cleaning kits. Nice long leads to attach to a battery (even if still on the bike), quick-connectors for the injector plug (so it can be used with other types of injectors) spray bottle adapters, clamps, etc. everything to make it super-easy on this first-timer (me). And here's the super-cool factor: a foot switch so you can hold the injector and spray bottle with two hands. And the super-super-cool factor: Marty put a light inside the wires - so it lights up when the injector is open. I probably over-cleaned the injectors just so I could watch it light up.
Thanks Marty.
Very nifty I have to say. What is even more wild is that it came from NZ. I mean think about it people from all of the world can now communicate almost immediately. I am sure given the age of most members here that probably used a slide rule in school that we never foresaw this coming in our lifetimes.
And come on a home Guzzi mechanic over doing something. Never
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Uhh, we *might* be overthinking this..
If a person that currently builds airplanes says we might be overthinking this then we are probably overthinking this into the stratosphere lol. Simply because as we all know it is the very nature of a airplane builder to overthink things to start with.
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Does anti seize count as "grease" when using stainless to aluminum?
I would like to say one thing about Antiseize. Use it sparingly as it will migrate. I would also check fasteners when using this product a few times to make sure they are tight. I tend to use LocTite. As there are many grades available that will not only help with corrosion but also help maintain torque.
For head studs I like that copper stuff that comes in a can which helps keep down migration of oils by the threads.
When putting these types of crank cases together and to help maintain correct bearing crush I like Gasgacinch.
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Also, I see from this that it is the aluminum alloy (block, or heads, or timing chest castings) that become the anode and are degraded (corroded) by the electrolysis. Doubly un-good!
This makes me think about the supplemental ground that many of us have run from the voltage regulator to the engine block. I wonder if it would be better to ground the regulator to the steel spine frame instead?
Sorry for straying off-topic.
Yes it would.
Steel is usually better. Or is that More Better. -
.. gap after 80 000 km , -fixed with K-line..
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So it looks like heads will need to be freshened up around 50,000 miles?
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Thank You for the information. I guess I should be looking for Sport and not just LeMans?
Also Thank You one and all. Good information.
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To be honest it is a Motorcycle lol. If someone really wants it they will take it. But what you are trying to prevent is mainly someone wishing to take it for a joy ride. So there are several things you can do to help prevent this. Brake disc locks are available that simply go through one of the cooling holes of the brake disc and locks on preventing it from rolling. The downside is they are pretty easy not to notice so you will have to remember it is on there lol. And of coarse there are those rubber coated cable locks that are available and probably every home improvement store. You can snake them through the wheels and forks or rear swing arm and if you get one long enough you could snake it around a fairly unmovable object. And of coarse you could locate a small kill switch in the electrical system. But someone else on the forum that is good with wiring would have to help you with this set up. Those are the pretty cheap routs. As of course you can go up from there with GPS systems that will keep your motorcycle located if it is stolen. But I am sure they are not cheap but I could very well be wrong.
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Since you have the valves out I will tell you an easy way to improve flow and reduce hot spots that will help reduce chances of pre ignition (PING).
Chuck the intake valve into a drill press or if one must you can mount a 3/8ths drill that will enable you to spin the valve. Take a fine file and file the back side of the valve head to a smooth transition to close to the seating area of the valve. If this is hard to see just simply go by an automotive parts store and purchase some fine valve lapping compound and I forget what it is called but it is a stick with a rubber suction cup on the end. Place the valve in the guide with some motor oil on the stem and put some valve lapping compound on the face of the valve that meets the seat and put some pressure on it and spin it back and forth and you will get a bright ring all the way around the valve and the seat. Or you should if everything is correct.
Okay for the Heat Riser parts round off the corners of the face of the head of the valves outer perimeter . A nice smooth round off. Do this for both the intake valve and the exhaust valve.
And before you ask it is not needed to do the back side of the exhaust valve but if you like you can do so. But the main advantage is flow into the combustion chamber through the intake valve. While the rounded off of the corners of the face of the valve reduce sharp areas that may become overheated to the point that they could cause pre Ignition. As for the face of the exhaust valve it will help the exhaust gases to go around the exhaust valve and exit
As for valve guide seals many will recommend PC seals for the intakes and stock seals for the exhaust. The reason for this is the PC Seal will seal better for the intake valve thus keeping the fuel charge as pure as possible thus increasing BTU's in the combustion process. The stock exhaust valve seal is so it will allow a bit of more oil allowed to the stem of the exhaust valve to help aid in cooling of the exhaust valve.
I could go into further aspects of porting heads but doing this can get someone into trouble real fast lol. But I will state that if you are bored you can smooth out the exhaust passage as smooth as possible as this will help increase exhaust speed thus help increase exhaust scavenging as much as possible. Do not re-contour anything. As it may look good but that does not mean it will flow good in the right areas lol.
Sorry if this was long winded.
Just remember an Engine is in its simplest forms is an Air Pump. So any modifications that will help aid the engine with moving air will help the efficiency of said engine.
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What model and year V11 do you have?
Even though they may not be listed on their website, Traxxion Dynamics has fork springs for the pre-2003 Marzocchi forks. I don't know if they have springs for the '03/04 Marz forks.
If you have gold forks maybe we should trade
Here's another source for fork springs that will fit the pre-'03 forks.
http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=141_144&osCsid=fe0cc39e68318b1c7dacff69ad20e472.
I'm sure there are a few monoshock replacement options. Fire up the search engine and you'll find info on Penske, Ohlins, Matris, and others.
It will be a 2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans.
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V11 LeMans Gustafsson +5 VS MRA Windshield +3?
Looking for some feed back on these two windshield designs for the V11 LeMans and some pictures of course would be great?
I am short at 5'10" and since I plan to take some longer trips is there a better windshield design for doing such things?
Thank You as always.
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This is picture of Joe Kenny's "standard with holes" head guard. There are other versions over in that store in Australia. Link below. (Slow website warning).
JesterGrin, Good question on the construction and fastening of the head guards. I can think of two possible answers.
1. The Guards are designed to be sacrificial in a slide, protecting the engine. Bending, scraping or snapping a guard absorbs energy that you don't want transferred to the cylinder head. So you want guards to be weaker than adjacent expensive parts.
2. The valve cover screws are all the same length. If you made a guard that had longer screws, there is a chance that someone may fit a short screw in your guard and a long screw somewhere else. This could mean a leaky valve cover as the short screw strips threads, and the long screws bottom on fins without clamping the cover.
1. The Guards are designed to be sacrificial in a slide, protecting the engine. Bending, scraping or snapping a guard absorbs energy that you don't want transferred to the cylinder head. So you want guards to be weaker than adjacent expensive parts.
I understand this. I threw an idea out at Docc so before I throw it on the forum I will see how hard he laughs lol.
2. The valve cover screws are all the same length. If you made a guard that had longer screws, there is a chance that someone may fit a short screw in your guard and a long screw somewhere else. This could mean a leaky valve cover as the short screw strips threads, and the long screws bottom on fins without clamping the cover.
Ok you have me as I tend to take things like this for granted in that people would check these things before torquing things down of which in general I should not do. I mean heck it is only 4 bolts lol.
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Well I have to thank everyone for the great information on the Moto Guzzi and the needed Oils as we all know Oil is the life blood of machines.
As I have been informed I need to rethink how I do things lol. As I would tend to change the transmission and differential fluids every other oil change whether it needs it or not. But with these new synthetics it is probably no longer needed to change these oils every 5 or 6OOO miles?
2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans Revival
in Technical Topics
Posted
I am sorry but what bushing are you referring to? Do you have a picture of what said bushing should look like? And what material are they made of currently?