JesterGrin_1
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Posts posted by JesterGrin_1
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But as mentioned since I know pretty much nothing about the Moto Guzzi V11 I am trying to figure out the best places to purchase products and what products I should be looking at to improve the Moto Guzzi V11 in spots it may need upgrading and or improve response such as the suspension for my weight and cargo carrying capacity.
And yes I have been reading so much I needed to go out and purchase thicker reading glasses or it is just simply age lol.
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I thought it was a difference in the overall shock length, not just the spring length. A longer spring would not make much difference.
You are correct the shock itself determines the extended length and compression length while the spring regulates weight carry and rate of compression of said spring.
So yes it would be a shorter shock with a stronger spring as with the shorter shock the shock distance would be shorter before rebound.
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I will digress a bit lol. Yes I picked the ole 96 KLR 650 as I am no longer a serious off road nut lol. No more table tops for me Thank You lol. Even though at times my mind will scream hey lets do that and my body goes are you crazy lol. Yes sometimes crazy wins lol. But it always turns out painful but yet fun I know confusing lol. But if I ride something that I know will not do something then I regulate myself in knowing that. Only because I am now old enough to take these things into account.
Back to bikes. As mentioned all of them have plus and minuses of which the end user needs to weigh these things as to what they honestly feel they will use the motorcycle for.
For mostly trails and some lower speed road work the Suzuki DRZ 400 is very popular and of course as mentioned Husky is a heck of a bike and they know how to build a bike for off road work. There is no question about that from anyone.
As for the 650's The downside for me on the KLR is that it is water cooled but it is also an upside as in longer highway use you can run 75-80 MPH all day without worry of an over heat. Not something I would really wish to do with a DR650 or even a Honda XL650. Not to mention as noted the after market parts available for the KLR is just mind blowing. I mean think about it the KLR 650 with little changes I think has been in production since 1986 lol. There must be a reason it has been so popular for so long. Well of coarse the low price helps.
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Jester- thanks for the link. I have been increasingly attracted to the ADV Rider Forum as they have an individual thread for each of the different makes and models. Looking for a bike to ride on the dirt and fire roads near our cabin up in Georgia, and also the possibility of doing the TAT, I came really close to buying a 2014 KLR650 with 475 miles. Then doing a bit more research I discovered that Kawasaki may or may not have done the "do-hickie" conversion for the counter balance chain tensioner and since I was buying the bike used, they may or may not cover any repair under warranty.
As I understand it, Kawasaki finally addressed the problem in 2015 and the 2016 years are trouble free. Hopefully I will be able to find a leftover 2016 in the spring time.
Scud- Yea the dealer support issue is the main reason I have been focusing on the the KLR/DR. Do you carry a SPOT or EPIRB tracking device when you ride remote tracks in the mountains or desert?
Well I will say one thing I have read about the KLR and the Moto Guzzi is Shocks and Forks as in an upgrade of the rear shock is highly advised if doing any kind of serious off road work and or carrying allot of weight along with upgrading the rear sub frame bolts as the factory ones tend to not be up to snuff. And I think you are correct that they fixed the doo but I would get the modified thermostate set up from watt man. But again I would highly suggest to take a look at the forum I gave.
.As for Gen 1 VS Gen 2 I tend to like the Gen 1 more as they do not have as much plastic up front to break lol.
But again with the KLR I would spend funds towards reliability and suspension as well of coarse in anything that will make the bike rider friendly for what you intend to do. As really you are not going to pull really anything extra out of the KLR Engine.
I will throw this out there though about tires. If you plan to run more off road it is hard to beat the cheap Shinko 244's and if you run on the road more often the Shinko 705's are a good 10000 Mi Plus tire.
And yep I will keep going lol. You can get the IMS Plastic fuel tank which is a 7 gallon plus tank for about $260.oo or a IMS 10 gallon tank for about double that. And at say 48-54 MPG you can cover some ground before you have to worry about fuel.
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To drop a bike is pretty normal lol.
JRD actually only you can answer these questions.. But it is darn hard to beat a KLR especially for the money spent . But I would say to get a Gen1 1996 to 2007 as a few years of the Gen 2 08 to 10 I think has oil control problems as they changed the ring design. What many do is put in an eagle mike's 685 cc kit. You can go to this forum and find out everything you need to know. http://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php
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Well it looks like you had fun and had the right Truck for the job. Congratulations on the fun and even a bigger one. Nobody was hurt.
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I am working on getting my ducks lined up. So as I was informed by the Door Knob Tooth Puller lol. That I should seriously look into upgrading the shock springs due to my over large size (FAT). So at this point I am right at 250 LBS with some gear on and tend to be more of a harder sport rider at times along with some short and longer highway miles so I will have a tank bag along with panniers and saddle bags and a good sized tail bag.
Any and all help with this information as well as best places to look for such items would be of great help for the mindless (Me)
Thank You one and all.
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Just thought I would ask if anyone has tried the Dunlop Q3's Sportmax tire? http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dunlop-q3-sportmax-rear-tires
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I thought I would ask for luck in that maybe someone has 1 good head guard for a V11 that is if they will fit either side or a pair that has seen better days that I could use as a template?
Thanks One and All.
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At the risk of posting the most boring photograph ever, this is the clutch push rod:
It is already machined down at the actuator end, and unmachined at the clutch end. The OD is 8.0mm except at the end where it's been machined down to 6.0mm. Placing the 8.0mm end into the original clutch and the 6.0mm end into the new clutch I get what feels like the same amount of play, but my calipers don't reach far enough down into the new clutch to actually measure the opening. The machined length of the actuator end is maybe 0.5mm longer than the depth of the hole on the new RAM clutch. I suspect that if I get it machined so that it's symmetrical it will fit in nicely.By the looks of it there would seem to be no problem to make a new one of the correct size and or machine the old one. And Thank You for posting the picture.
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I got motivated and zipped out to Lowe's to buy a set of those plumber sockets. The size was not exactly right, but I tried anyway - and just ended up deforming the tool without moving the nut. I guess this is going to take a few trips to tool stores.
Sort of surprised that Moto Guzzi missed the opportunity to make this a "special tool."
At least I now have tools to remove tub and shower valves - a job I have always paid someone else to do.
That is why I mentioned that they are weak lol. That is the main reason I have never used them doing plumbing lol. But I tend to mostly do very old plumbing say from the mid 50's on back as nobody really seems to know a darn thing about it today lol. Back to the stamped sockets lol. That is why I get a socket of the correct size needed and modify them. I had a few I made up years ago but gave away from lack of use but what I did was use a hack saw to cut the back of the deep well socket off where the driver would go and cut and fit a piece of pipe that would be needed at the correct length and then simply weld them together.
You can make any depth of a socket you need doing this. And I am positive with all of the great work I have seen on this forum it would be no big deal.While we are on the semi subject of plumbing I will talk about Electric water heaters lol. If you have to replace the heating element in one do not waste your time with those cheesy stamped wrenches. Spend the funds on the 1/2 Dr Deep socket that is needed. Believe me you will be very thankful.
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Drill Bits. Well if you really wished to go that far you could drill the correct size hole with a good drill bit and just stop short enough to either have or do it yourself by grinding the end of the purposed drill bit to the proper shape to make the bed of the hole correct for the push rod and then use some valve lapping compound to smooth out and mate the two components. But doing this is far easier said than done lol.
So if as said that if the current push rod is not a hardened piece then I would size it and or make a new one of the correct dimensions. But as I have not done this I can only go by what I have read and as how I understand it.
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Bringing this one back, because I'm finally finding some time to get around to working on this thing.
As was suggested, the receiver for the clutch push rod is smaller on the 5 speed RAM than the original version, but it is a pressed in steel bit. The receiver from the original clutch isn't interchangeable. So I have two options:
1. drill out the receiver to the larger diameter
2. take the push rod into a machine shop and have the end of it turned down to the right size
Thoughts?
RAM 5 speed with pressed in metal insert:
OEM, different and not interchangeable:The part about the re machine is a good idea if the ends of the push rod are not hardened.
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Does this work?
IMG_0932.JPGThe picture sure does lol. But be very aware that those stamped plumbers sockets are not very strong nor very precise. But if they work then they work so run with them.
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I have always wanted to learn to fly an Ultra light. From what I have been told by several pilots that is as close to flying by "the seat of your pants" as you can get. Only one pilot ever had anything good to say about them though.
Chuck- no more tree top flying? I thought that would be a good thing, you dont have as far to fall!
Here is a neat Ultra Light that some of you home builders might really like. http://betterhalfvw.com/
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I love my "Edge Guards." Sadly, he doesn't make them anymore; he offered up the kit to build them, but nobody took him up on it. Three pieces of thermo-molded plastic that protect the shock, shock eye, and battery area above and forward of the "hugger."
Seems it was Bjorn (?) that built some alloy pieces that are very similar.
Docc it was edge that made some.
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Here is some GREAT threads on the subject along with pictures and some measurements on how to make your own.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18837
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=984
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4893
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4893&page=2Sorry if I am getting a bit too into this lol. The 4th link is a discussion on some that a forum member made some quality ones and sold them for a reasonable price here on the forum.
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Sorry I have no pictures but as mentioned people for many years have used a piece of rubber around 1/8 or 3/16 and either riveted the piece to the bottom front of the rear fender to keep much off of the forward components such as in our case the shock. Of course if one wishes one could do the same to the rear of the rear fender as well as the front depending on each individuals needs. Just be creative.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and at times there is great beauty in function but not in vision.
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Thanks. Footpegs feel about the same as with the original paint.
Sorry I was not aware that they were painted originally as they looked like they were simply bare aluminum. But I just have to say it again.
BEAUTIFUL Job.
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Tranny is back in, along with fresh powdercoat on: lower subframe, driveshaft collar, rider pegs and brackets, seat lock housing, Lucky-Phil shift extender, and upper throttle body brace. Engine is up next...
I do hope that what I am about to say is not out of line but.
It Looks GREAT.
One thing though does concern me and that is that if you powder coated the foot pegs will it not make them slippery?
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Since we are talking Gaskets and or to say important replacement parts where is the best place to order this stuff? And sorry I am in South TEXAS.
And yes I agree as I would think one would order at least a few gaskets that is unless many do not use a gasket and simply use some type of gasket maker.
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I have done many things that I would not brag about.
But I honestly feel that a Good Sport Motorcycle is as close as one can get to flying and still have a better chance of living through an oops lol.And by the way I Love the Pitts. A Pitts can be snappy but yet smooth. But then again I also liked the Ole Steerman with the 450 HP Radial.
.And while I am thinking about it.
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Cdogger I do not mean to sound mean but by all means I would highly suggest getting some good motorcycle time such as mentioned a dirt bike before you consider throwing a leg over the Guzzi. Can you learn on the Guzzi sure it can be done but by gosh it could be very bad.
A dirt bike will teach you many things such as body English to name just one small part of riding. As the Guzzi may not be a very high powered Motorcycle in terms of what is available today but it is still no moped. They are large and relatively heavy motorcycles with enough HP to get you into real trouble very fast.
Others such as myself have said just this as to be even more honest we do not wish you to get hurt or even worse or to maybe destroy such a fine bike.
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Show Us Your Headguards
in Technical Topics
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Docc Thank You for the picture as it helps me visualize it before I get the moped in my garage.
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But it does raise some questions that confuse me a bit. And that would be why use what appears to be factory length bolts to mount the head guards as what is left of the head guard to mount them seems pretty thin for something that if the bike is dropped would have to withstand some pretty heavy loads. Especially if the bike is moving.
What would be wrong in leaving the head guards at a full 3/8 th's (9mm) Thick at the center two bolt holes and clearance the outer two mounting bolt locations for correct fit up and use the needed length corresponding bolt lengths needed for the application?
Also I know we spoke about this but even though they are a little wider than factory head guards are they wide enough to protect the head and components?
Just some questions from the unknowing.
I know some things are meant for BLING but others are for Function and then BLING.