Yam350

Apologies if this has been asked before. I’ve recently bought my old V11 back and want to fit a Givi tanklock bag. When I owned the bike before I made an aluminium “horseshoe” to raise the locking ring above the tank pad, however I gave it to another member when I sold the bike. My question is has anyone removed the pad and replaced it with a flush cover or is the later tank compatible with my 2002 model?

I posted sometime ago about fitting the tanklock set and added pics so you should be able to find them. Basically in order to fit it, you need to raise the locking ring so the bag just clears the tankpad which is where my aluminium “horseshoe” comes in. You also have to slightly modify the other fittings to allow the filler flap to open. Redmog and milar if you pm me your addresses I’ll get the parts off to you. You can cover the postage through PayPal if you have an account.

Pm me and I’ll get a price for postage

Hi, As I’ve sold my v11 I have the necessary parts required to fit the locking ring for the Givi tanklock system. I made an aluminium horseshoe and modified the fittings so that I could fit the ring and retain the tank pad. I’m happy to send it to someone for the cost of postage. To clarify you’ll get everything apart from the standard locking ring which will come with the bag. You’ll also need some longer bolts which if I can find I’ll include, otherwise they’re easily available. I covered many thousands of miles with set up so I know it works. No mods are required to the tank or pad. I’ve also got a new gearbox return spring if anyone needs it. Again happy to send for the postage.

Looking for a Lemans mk5 in the uk. Prefer fairly original but will consider any example. Oh, and if H439PEX is out there I’d be very interested. Craig

I apologise in advance if this has already been covered but..........I’ve been looking at crossovers and there’s loads of differing opinions as to which is best. I’m wondering if there is any gain to be made by de-gutting the original item or if indeed there is anything to remove which would give similar gains to the popular aftermarket options. My bike is a uk spec 2002 Lemans currently fitted with pro race cans, std airbox and filter, and power commander. TPS etc set up as per the excellent advice on here so it runs very well.

Sorry forgot to say it also has a power commander and the TPS etc has been set up as per the instructions on the forum. Tel 07749 272675 if interested.

Hi Steve, I’m thinking of selling my v11 Lemans. It’s a 2002 model and has done about 7800mls. It’s in very nice condition and has been serviced recently. I’ve fitted a roper plate, omron relays, pro race cans (plus originals) heated grips (plus originals). I’ve also replaced the gearbox return spring and reduced the diameter of its pivot. Recent mot and tyres. I’m looking for £5500. Im just outside Evesham. Regards Craig

Does anyone know of replacement footpegs that have rubber inserts? I find the standard items lack grip particularly in the wet. I’m happy to modify some however don’t want to make any irreversible mods to the bike.

Really interesting stuff. I find that my fuel light is very dim to the point that it's very easy to miss it particularly in bright sunshine. Has anyone ever found a way of fitting a fuel guage or a level sensor that is more on/off so the light will be bright right away.

I'm running pro race end cans with the standard x over and would definitely recommend completing the decent tune up before making any changes. My bike responded well and even though it was good beforehand, It runs better than ever now. I'm pretty mechanically minded, but if your not then the instructions that docc has posted will make the job straightforward.

Just been for a ride, and I can now feel the difference. I actually set it at +10 and it's made the bike ride so much better. Being slightly paranoid I even checked it again when I got back!

I recently completed the "decent tune up" that docc kindly explained in another thread. I reported that I didn't notice much difference afterwards, so today I re-connected to guzzidiag and found that the c02 value was back at its original -18 despite me having set it to 0. I then looked at faults and found several stored which I cleared, before changing the c02 again. This time it seems to have saved the change, in fact I double checked by disconnecting and then re-connecting guzzidiag.

As suggested I've completed the "decent tune up" (many thanks docc for the concise instructions). My tps was at 127 so reset to 150 and the afr was -18 so reset to 0. As both values were out I was hoping for great things on the test ride, however............it is slightly better although to be honest I can hardly tell any difference. The bike was running very well prior to the tune up so maybe my expectations were too high. It still runs very well, however there is still a lack of urge in the midrange which hasn't changed. The fuelling is smooth throughout, however it doesn't really take off until it's getting near 5000rpm at which point it goes really well. My old mk5 lemans certainly felt stronger in the midrange, although didnt have the top end. I've given the bike a complete service so everything else is in good order. The mileage is quite low at 5900 so I'm assuming that even a guzzi will be run in by now! The bike is standard apart from pro- race end cans. Is it worth re-mapping at this stage or should I change the crossover and look at the airbox first? Dangerous, yes the 350lcs have gone up in value.......just glad I bought mine a few years back when they were still reasonably priced.

I had this issue recently with a new ufi oil filter. I couldn't gat any oil pressure and eventually took it all apart again and it turned out to be the seal o the filter. It was thinner than the old seal (also a ufi) and was allowing the filter body to bottom out meaning that no seal was created. I used the old seal and pressure was restored.

Thanks all. Regarding the mistral crossover, I've read lots of conflicting reports on this, with some saying that it makes the midrange worse. I appreciate it's off topic but I'd welcome any thoughts.

Thanks all. Regarding the mistral crossover, I've read lots of conflicting reports on this, with some saying that it makes the midrange worse. I appreciate it's off topic but I'd welcome any thoughts.

I've finally finished servicing my v11 lemans and I'm now considering re-mappping the ecu. The bike runs very well, although feels a touch flat in the midrange. Apart from that the fuelling feels fine, but I wonder if some fine tuning would eliminate the flat spot. I've downloaded guzzidiag and I've got the appropriate cables to connect laptop and bike together, however this is an area in which I have no experience and I'm worried I'll make it worse. I'm not necessarily looking for more performance, but would like the bike to feel stronger in the midrange. Is this achievable by re-mapping or is it more of a "mechanical" characteristic? The bike is standard apart from a set of pro race end cans and has covered around 5500mls.

Working through a service on my 2002 lemans and i'm having bit of trouble getting my grease gun onto the nipples on the uj joints. I'm assuming that as Guzzi have gone to the trouble of fitting grease nipples then it stands to reason that they are accessible! I'd be grateful if anyone could enlighten me...................is it possible without dismantling, and if so what kind of fittng/grease gun is required.

Update. First of all many thanks to all of you that replied.....much appreciated. In desperation I decided to remove the sump again and go through everything just in case. Again it all looked fine, however having removed the sump I thought I may as well remove the roper plate as that was all that had changed. Before that though,I removed the filter to check the seal which looked fine, however it was almost flush with the top of the filter. I remembered that the old one protruded further, and luckily I still had it, So......refitted everything with the OLD filter seal and turned the motor over with no plugs and hurray after a few seconds the light went out. I checked that the pressure dropped before repeating and again got pressure. I've now ran the bike and it's back to normal. i.e. The light goes out instantly when it starts. The new filter is a UFI as the old one was so the seal fitted fine. Unfortunately I didn't measure the old one before refitting, but the new one measures 5.5mm. The old one was at least 1mm thicker, possibly slightly more.

Well, I've just tried plugs out and cranking it on the starter for several short bursts. I then started it and held my breath for 15seconds.........no change. The light isn't even flickering suggesting low pressure. I'm happy to have it all apart again, but what am I looking for? The whole thing can only go back one way and in any case I've already dropped the sump to double check. The mesh filter around the pickup is clean and all gaskets and o rings were replaced. If there was an internal leak I'm guessing I'd have some pressure, but this looks as if there is no oil circulating at all. When I removed the sump again to check, there was no oil in the filter (I hadn't filled it prior to fitting) which supports this theory. I did fill it before putting it back together, but no change. Any ideas?

If it is an airlock, is there a way of priming the system?

Yes, correct gaskets, and everything lines up.

I've just fitted a roper plate and a new oil filter (UFI) and now I don't have any oil pressure ( or at least the light isn't going out). For obvious reasons I only ran it for a few seconds. I removed the sump again and double checked everything and it all looked fine. I removed the filter and filled it with oil before putting it all back together again....... same result, no pressure. Would the system need bled or purged for some reason? The bike was running fine before and the oil light normally goes out immediately. Any ideas would be gratefully received