Gmc28

Spotted this tonight, on the speedo. I recall seeing some threads and FAQ info on the gauges, but posting this now while its fresh, to fish for what the recommendation is for this issue -

Interesting. I’d never tried S100 till last fall, as i had lumped it into the snake oil category with so many other miracle items, but a guy i know said it worked well for him. Tried it on my Duc wheels, as they are the spoked tubeless wheels and really hard to reach when cleaning, and didn’t seem to do anything, so that bottle sits on the shelf. Maybe its ok for other parts of the bike (?), but not working on wheels, and then not being good for the logos, well thats not a case for s100 so far for me… living on a gravel road was what caused me years ago to sell my beloved ST4… couldn’t take the anguish any more of it always rattling up and down that road, and always being dirty. I got over that, regretted selling the ST4, and then the county paved over half of the remaining gravel, so I got back on the wicked Italian bike wagon. But am still always interested in easier ways to clean the machines, as there’s still a bit of unpaved road left on my road. And the V11’s don’t rattle like the ST’s, with way fewer plastic bits. :->

You mean the wood stove? Isn't Voglezang a brand of stove, or is it a style? My stove in the shop is just one of the double barrel stoves, where the kit with the door and feet is purchased cheap, and you add the barrels and a chimney. But heats fast and strong. Lot better than the propane options i've tried out there over the years that leave strange humidity and not enough heat. Inside the house is my hat-tip to the couple good Norwegians on this forum, as that's where I have my beloved big Norwegian Jotul stove. It's other title is my task-master. I spend too much time cutting firewood when i should be working on the motorcycle! My old house is too old and drafty, so the Jotul demands to be well fed. But in fairness it also keeps my 85 yr old father active, as he runs that chainsaw all summer... For those so inclined, the book "norwegian wood" is a quirky and interesting read. Yes, the multi-play on words is intended. figured it was just a coffee table book with nifty pics, but ended up being an interesting read.

It was kept in a shed, that must have leaked. And spent its only active riding year in seattle where there's salt and rain... As i go through it i'm wiping off a lot of grime and mildew type stuff. But underneath in most cases is usually a "gleaming" surface of some sort, except in those cases where its bad, and then its often real bad.

And here she is, on the budget harbor freight stand now that Red is done and out of the way for rest of year. Don't judge the glimpses of my messy shop.

Touche doc. I'd tend to agree, but no obvious signs of hydraulic issues up above, and i'd have thought i'd see other signs of damaged paint leading to that area. But now that you mention it, worth a re-look.

looking at how to clean up the bad chrome here. naughty, naughty chrome...

anyone know where to find these cheaper than 70 euros (delivered)?

Similar with some of other bits here and there, including the aluminum cover up on the "dash". In a haze i bought plastic paint for that, but woke up and remembered i'll need aluminum paint. so will be looking at that shade of aluminum as well, to see if its different or same as the block paint.

Finally getting around to getting a little more done on the Greenie. It's the one i picked up about a year ago that legitimately only has about 1200 miles on the clock, but was stored poorly for part of its more recent life, and needs a good going-through from top to bottom. Red Lemans is running sweet, and now that i've got my arm/shoulder seemingly back healthy enough to ride again, all good there. Lot's of both good and bad surprises so far as I find time now and then to get back and tinker with Greenie. I have the tank stripped and repainted (ethanol damage), which came out nice (previously posted), and i'll be doing the decent tune up as I go along. I'll post some things on this thread now and then with how its going, and if anyone is so inclined they can chime in with comments or input. The paint on the chops and the frame is in mostly showroom condition, but then there's a couple spots where its real bad. Presumably its where water collects and drips when its wet from poor storage. in any case, i'll clean that up, and be looking for a decent red paint match if anyone has that intel (pretty sure that's searchable here, but haven't tried yet). The silver paint i think i have figured out, and its on order.

You weren’t struck by lightning? Must be that clean living. And raw oysters. And bourbon.

Like to see how that turns out when done at powdercoater’s…

Interesting…. I have Agostinis on Red, and at a glance thought they were the same from the picture. I still like the “bass note” the stock carbon cans on Goldie produce, but sure prefer the look of the agostini carbons. Non-sequitur: I have a bit of a sputter/miss on Red at about 3500+ rpm, sitting in the shop and running it up. Wondering if it’s old gas (just from last fall, clear premium, so shouldn’t be…), or if something else is going on. Does sound like the miss I’ve had on project bikes that had old fuel, and more than once I chased my tail trying to tune that issue out, only to find that refreshing the fuel fixed the issue. But this fuel isn’t that old. Did the usual tuning, and all seemed right, with only very minor adjustments needing to be made on valves, TPS, and TB sync. Once I have my arm back to be able to ride, I’ll have to shake it out and see if the miss/sputter is there on a road test.

Thats how mine is mounted… I could choose the mount angle on my GB. Though its mostly about looks, as the practical difference is very small. I live on a gravel road, and the fine “mud line shadow” thats clearly illustrated when I’m caused to come home when the road is wet (muddy) paints a clear picture in fine mud of the exact protection area of the hugger, based on the size/length and angle of the hugger (i have a couple different ones for the multistrada I’ve messed with over time). My only complaint, and its pretty only for those who are as abusive as me by living on a gravel road, is that i wish the GB hugger was a little longer. But thankfully my V11’s are pretty much sunny day bikes for me, so not a big deal. But the optional longer hugger i mounted on my multistrada makes an obvious difference, and it does get ridden in all weather, and on more than a little gravel/dirt.

Ghezzi Brian - He’s proud of those CF hugger mudguards, price wise, but they are nice. I have one and those same pipes on Red… nice look. Which crossover is that? “Today” on my v11 i wrapped up Red’s winter maintenance, and swapped the greenie project up onto the work stand. I say “I’, meaning my dad and i, as I’ve still got the mostly useless right arm, so credit goes to my dad in his mid-80’s gettin’ er done. I’m slightly embarrassed and pleased with a fix on the front lemans fairing on red, the last thing i had to do to her for the winter maintenance list. I know there’s a simple reason for this issue but i still haven’t figured out why on Red the whole fairing can wiggle up and down about 1/8+ inches. I’ve disassembled it and looked it all over, compared it to Goldie which does not have the issue, and just don’t see why Red does it and Goldie doesn’t, except that the bolt holes on the upper part of the mounting bracket are just slightly oversized for the bolt that slides through. I wouldnt think the hotes are oversized enough to allow that much vertical “wiggle”, but its all i can find that was amiss. Still a little bit of an unsolved mystery. But i wrapped the whole unthreaded part of the bolt with one wrap of aluminum cut from a pop can, to take up some slop/space, then wrapped the unthreaded part of the bolt head end a 2nd time, and then same on the nut side but on the nut side had the aluminum extend a little over the threads, so that as i tightened the nut it crushed and expanded the aluminum wrap, which did the trick of filling the gap. Jury-rig crush washer. No more wiggle, and its all “removable” modification, and invisible. It’s hokier than I’d prefer, but works and I’m thinking theres no real downside. Anyone else have this issue and know what might be missing or amiss to cause that?

So your 2 vent lines from the nipples are joined, and end routing “overboard” via the steering head area? I’ve had mine joined near the nipples and then routed down the traditional way to the charcoal canister. My intent on this go-around is to create a little union on right side where the joined/single line runs so i can simply disconnect it there and leave the nipple connections in place when i remove the tank. Is that a upgraded, niftier looking fuel filter there i see also?

Thx Docc. I may skip firing up the old B Gates laptop for now then, though greenie will need it. the broken bone needs to be “upgraded”, due to deeper issues. Steve Austin style is what I’m hoping, or maybe Sara Conners nemesis? Probably a month or more till they start, then lots of healing time.

Broke my damn arm again, just at the dawn of riding season. Sigh. But working at half speed to get Red off the winter tune bench, and wrapped up the valves, new valpolini gaskets, plugs, TPS baseline, and TB sync today. Have not re-checked CO trim, as it means firing up that old windows machine i use for that. I wouldn’t think CO trim would “meander” on its own, or am I just wishful thinking? Will pull left side TB off this week hopefully, and start going through Phils process of getting her tightened up so she doesn’t “drool”. And get those tank vent lines joined and with a properly placed union down lower so its a quicker R&R of the tank. Then will get her off the stand and Greenie up there so i can pick my way through getting her gone through for the first time, for mechanical and cosmetics. Probably something to mess with this summer while i daydream about riding…

Many thanks… makes good sense. But am still wondering whether a guy should be able to either suck or blow through it, on the assumption that vapor or fuel would need to be able to move one way or the other for it to work. But i suppose the orientation part of what you mentioned may explain that perfectly.… The “tank suck” I’d initially think wouldn’t be an issue with my “married” vent lines, but I’d have to look closer at the plumbing to see if thats really true. I’ll probably pull it out and mess with it more to see if its actually working properly or not. Thanks again!

Finally getting around to properly T-ing off my tank vent lines. Trying to recall/work-out what the purpose is of the black plastic housing on the one vent line. Assume its a one-way valve, but can’t blow or suck on it, or so it seems, so before i go digging for what its really supposed to be thought I’d run it up the flag pole here… cheers

And the paint code formula. My boys used Spies Hecker, but it can be easily translated to Dupont or others.

Got the freshly painted tank and fly screen back this afternoon. I’m happy, both to have it done and with the results. As known, the paint is tricky to match, not being a basic color, so i was only cautiously optimistic about how it would turn out, and I’d say it met or slightly exceeded my expectations, and is a “win” overall. When turning the newly painted tank, or the old side covers, at different angles in different light you get a real different look to the paint, part of what makes it neat, and hard to match. As noted earlier, the side covers i bought used and have some UV aging, the pilion cover and fenders are stock on my bike but were exposed to more UV and other bad things than they should have been, and now the tank and fly screen are new paint. They all match nicely, especially when considering all that. I’ll post the paint code for anyone interested. But first some pics (apparently i still haven’t figured out the proper way to post pics… but here we go:) Notice how even the pics look different, in the same place with same light but taken at different angles.

Nice! dug out my old technics SL-7 turntable from storage about a year ago, to make it available again after some remodeling. Linear tracking arm won’t track, so looked online to see what’s out there, and found quite the interesting, eclectic community of enthusiasts on a forum or two for these turntables (Vinyl engine is one of them). Plenty of support for me to dive in and fix my unit, though per usual time is the issue… so there it still sits on my desk. yesterday friends up for super bowl commented on how great the “surround sound” system I had was for the game, with all the music and action. I just said “thanks”. It’s not “surround”, and is just a stereo setup including a 40yr old Onkyo amp (that has been powered-on continuously now for 17+yrs), and a couple large Klipsch speakers (with down firing subs) that I bought, used, 35 yrs ago. I just plugged in the satellite tv output sound to the “tape 2” input. And have some Bose 501’s from 1981 connected to my other tv, though they’ve required a little TLC and maintenance along the way.

If my greenie paint comes out well, I’ll post the intel and formula info.

Yep, it’s a hassle, but seems doable. I explored the house of Kolor option, but used voodoo and “gut” and decided to go instead with the photo-match device my local shop guy has had good luck with, and using an original side cover to match it to. i also acquired a little stucchi fly screen they’ll paint as well, which came unpainted. I’ve failed to mention an obvious factor for greenie which is different than the Lemans: the painted surface area on the sport is clearly dominated by the tank, much more so than the lemans with the fairing. And my greenie came without side panel covers, so I bought those off eBay, with a variation of UV-fading that’s different than the tank, plus they are small, and mostly not butted-up to the tank. With the new fly screen being painted the same as the large tank, there’s not a lot of other painted surface that will stand out to contrast a non-prefect match, so I’m probably safe. And if necessary can easily just have them also paint the side covers, pillion cover, and fender, so it’s 100%.