po18guy
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Posts posted by po18guy
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Parilla kept it simple.
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2 hours ago, p6x said:
I knew Avon as a brand; I cannot remember why though.
I checked their website, and they have a few solutions for the V11.
The Spirit ST (dual compound) and the Storm 3D X-M "All around".
Both tires advertises as "manufactured in the UK".
When it comes to grip in the wet and cold, no doubt UK knows what they talk about.
What I cannot really understand, is what would be the difference in quality for a tire manufactured in UK from a tire manufactured elsewhere?
The machines, the compound recipes are all the same; the quality assurance too. The materials used to make the compound, all is mirrored for every factory. As I visited a tire manufacturing plant (a long time ago), I know the workers are unskilled for the major part.
If we leave ethics out, why then?
The mention of UK manufacture is to maintain confidence in the brand. So many companies are turning to 3rd world and emerging nations for manufacture. Brazil, Thailand and many other nations are now relied on for major brand tires. On a car, failure is a disappointment. On a bike, it can be fatal. Confidence in both brand and quality of manufacture carries much weight in my mind. As a company, Avon has over 100 years of experience in both car and motorcycle tires. Do they make a top level racing tire? Don't know and I believe it is irrelevant to the street rider. I have ridden on their bias ply tires for just over 20 years and wet or dry have not had an issue.
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To each his own. Even my Honda lawnmower has a 2-speed manual with spur gears. Sounds cool running up and down through the gears. Next is an Akrapovic can in place of the spark arrestor.
A CVT would make it a Moto Scooti. No thanks. In any event, I've bought my last bike.
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If it has a CVT, I'm gonna puke.
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Which states are involved? Were I in better shape, I would ride it for you.
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29 minutes ago, footgoose said:
Your instincts are to be trusted. Not a coincidence. Much info out there on the subject. Do take care sir. I wish you the best.
CDC has an adverse reaction reporting system called VAERS. Do some searches, they don't make it easy to pull up what you're after.
After three cancers and a stem cell transplant, the entire past 13 years have been an anomaly. The immune system transplanted into me is hyper-vigilant, which has lead to 6 years of various immune suppression schemes. I suspect that, were my immune system not suppressed, I might already be on the adverse advents log.
This is an emergency vaccine that was given the US go-ahead only under emergency conditions. Data is being collected and I am convinced that the truth is being carefully filtered if not completely disregarded in certain cases. Government does many things very poorly. What they have perfected is obfuscation, half-truths and flat out lies.
I worked in government for 31 years. I did not trust it before I took the job. Nothing in those 31 years changed my opinion.
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So, being a good subserviant renevue source for the government, I lined up and got my two Pfizer injections. I am now in my 3rd week of fevers up to 39C, muscle aches, chest tightness, cough, arthritic joint pain, and blood oxygen down from 99-100% to 88-95%, plus acid reflux and general malaise. Some try to tell me that it's just a coincidence. BS. Anyway full blood work and a hematology visit tomorrow.
This stuff is not Tylenol/Paracetamol.
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43 minutes ago, Guzzimax said:
Thanks for everyone’s valued replies and opinions regarding my tyre question. Over recent years I’ve also had several Triumphs (including Speed Triple 1050 & Tiger Sport 1050) using Michelin Pilot Road 3 sport/touring rubber and always been happy with Michelin’s grip/handling/wear performance
Equally my Greenie and Gen 2 VMAX have Bridgestone tyres, and in the case of the Greenie almost new Battlax BT021’s. These feel OK when they warm up, but warm up takes a long time and they don’t feel so good at colder temperatures
I would not rule Avon out. I live near rainy Seattle and tyres from a rainy nation fill the bill rather well.
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47 minutes ago, KINDOY2 said:
Indeed..the BT 46 works really well on my 1999 Bassa...one of the few front and rear matching tires available in the required size for these type early bikes. I'm not tracking it...lol
Bridgestone's promo for the BT46 shows a 70s V7 Sport.
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2 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:
I think most all the current tires from the various brands are quality tires. It is more like flavors of ice cream than it is which tire is better.
I have used a few different brands and model tires on our Guzzi's. They have all been good. I can't remember the last "bad" tire I tried, perhaps a Bridgestone BT45? It was OK, but I really didn't care for it. It seemed like the rubber was too hard and lacked grip.
I would rather have a tire that wore out too soon than had a lack of grip. We also used to have issues with tires not heating up fast enough. But that doesn't seem to be an issue anymore. Progress.
I do agree, if you have a 4.5" rear wheel go with a 160.
The BT45 was a bias-ply/cross-ply tire. Now upgraded to BT46, it is reputedly excellent for the earlier Guzzis.
Am pondering something slightly more modern than the Road 3s I have now. A distinctly rounded profile that does not seem completely happy on a long-frame.
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Single downdraft Weber IDF44 w/chokes. I sincerely hope the jetting is done.
On the plus side, with 1/2 of the bike stripped away, it probably weighs only about 525lbs.
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It is clear to me from my TPS adjusting that there is far too much play radially and axially for a sensitive electronic device. Gonna have another look.
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Has no one made any attempt to remedy this? Is the TPS just trash?
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5 hours ago, PJPR01 said:
Fabulous! Thank you…that’s the one. Now to figure out the process…Guzzidiag is easy to use, so hopefully this hunt for 157 Millivolts will be as well.
I am going to stare at the TPS and contemplate how to make a vernier adjustment so that the reading does not zip from 100Mv to 99 trillion with one tiny slip.
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Right now, I'm listening to this. No! Not Jay Leno - the Alfa.
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1 hour ago, Weegie said:
I said this on my first post but going to ask the obvious again.
All the connections are on the battery positive and they are clean? The same goes for the negative connection at the battery make sure it's clean. I usually clean them up with some Emery cloth, tighten and apply Vaseline/petroleum jelly
Make sure to also check the where the negative battery cable is connected to the frame/engine. Remove that connection and give it a good clean, tighten it all back up and more Vaseline/petroleum jelly. If the connection from the battery negative to the frame/engine is poor then you're going nowhere.
Ah, yes. Such easily overlooked things as an overzealous application of insulation to the battery cables. This one was actually OK, but just barely. I cleaned the extra bit away, gave it a bit of a brush and DeoxIt'ed the heck out of it.
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6 hours ago, Grim said:
My rubber bulb holders are knackered, so with no bulb in the contacts are free to wobble about and.... contact!
Those little wedge bulbs are horrible, and those soft rubber holders are weird.
Indeed. And that type of T5 socket rubber absolutely welds itself to the gauge sockets. I had quite a time getting them out. They went back in with silicone paste.
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On 8/12/2021 at 8:44 PM, docc said:
What are you trying to power?
Voltmeter/clock/thermometer. Draws milliamps.
I have heard the "sidelight" called a city beam, as opposed to dipped beam. A lot of old VWs etc. have them.
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4 hours ago, Grim said:
Ha, Nope, the "parking" light. Little 12v bulb under the main headlamp bulb. Black and yellow wires.
I soldered on to the terminals and ran the cables out the bucket in the original plastic sleeve.
Brilliant! The mark of an XS650 owner.
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Am wondering if there is a "reasonably" handy switched 12V source near the instruments/ignition switch? Having never had the instruments or ignition switch off the bike, dunno if there is a handy spot that can be tapped into. Like 22ga. wire.
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Bottom line is that the value of all other US Scuras just went up a bit.
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Part number GU01766880 (#6 on the diagram). My intention is to mount a clock on it.
This is apparently unique to the high-barred models, i.e. V11 naked, Ballabio, Cafe Sport. Will consider new or used. Live in NW USA.
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Timing Gear set
in Technical Topics
Posted
One can only imagine the days, weeks, months drafting and erasing, recalculating with a "stone-age" slide rule. Actually, it would be considered an amazingly short design period these days. In Parilla's case, the street bikes used but a single lobe of a single cam to operate both valves. IIRC, the valves were set at 110º, which was then considered to be the ideal lobe separation in a normal, two-lobe cam. As wide as they were, the valve angle worked with the deep, aircraft-type combustion chambers of the day. High cam with short pushrods and rockers. Sounds familiar...