po18guy
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Posts posted by po18guy
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While you are poking around, the ground to the trans is on the opposite side - just trace the fat black wire from battery to the transmission casing, pop it off for a bit of a clean, then (if you have some) CAIG DeoxIT will clear out the oxidation and ensure a better connection.
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16 hours ago, footgoose said:
I'm a fan of the LeMans I fairing.
Still have the 1977 brochure.
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On 4/18/2021 at 8:15 AM, stewgnu said:
Elsa doesn’t need man. She should get a guzzi v11.
Too much jug envy.
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3 hours ago, Rox Lemans said:
I used to LOVE the Subaru XT-6!!! The "CHEESE WEDGE!"
Remember the wedge garage of the Triumph TR-7 and TR-8?
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You'd think a purpose built MG harness breakout would have only the two necessary wires? Are there earlier or later TPS units that require a third (ground?) wire? I have two plain purple and a single plain green. Will check after a period of dormancy.
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Some confusion - my bad. This is the fairing "design" I am commenting on. As to aerodynamics, the Subaru XT6 proved the slippery does not necessarily mean beautiful.
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Got my Casper's TPS breakout harness. How do I terminate the green and purple wires?
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3 hours ago, docc said:
5th character: KRAKR changed to KRAKS probably sometime in 2002. AFAIK, no one has discerned exactly what the change indicates. If anything. Page one of this thread appears to demonstrate that most of the 2002 Scura (Long Frame) were KR, but there was one KS reported.
Our member @tommaso is asking about which might be correct for the Scura he is looking at in Italy.
That's odd, the VIN on my '04 is, in part: KRAKEN" Anyone know about that?
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Valve covers and porkchops remind me of a verse in Flash "N" the Pan's song Media Man: "Copper-colored hair..."
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4 hours ago, bridge said:
Makes sense, but in my case the bike had idled only a minute or two (I hadn’t ridden the bike yet), and the hydraulic line was still cool.
Am guessing that the slave might be the weak link. Either quickly in my case, or over time as in yours, air is seeping in. First time in history that something leaks into a Guzzi.
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2 hours ago, footgoose said:
Trout's are excellent!
Dad paid his dues with John Mayall's Blues Breakers, along with Coco Montoya - another great.
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Heat would seem to be a factor. I had just shown some racer kid in a Jetta up from down on I-5 in Seattle when the lever stopped returning and the clutch drag followed. The M/C and some of the line clearly heat up, given their location. The reservoir was full to the top - which I do not think was the case prior. Did the expanded fluid feed its way back into the reservoir and a bubble of air filled the void at the slave? As the fluid cools, it shrinks. Could that vacuum be pulling some air in? I suppose. Someone fully familiar with fluid dynamics and the intricacies of the MG system might better explain.
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Walter Trout is up there. Had to re-learn guitar after an almost failed liver transplant.
And a duo with his son Jonathan Trout. Dad taught him well.
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23 hours ago, vtwins4life said:
And it's gone - first guy to see it, bought it on the spot.
Been nice chatting with you all over the last few years. Look for me and the red car at the Vanilla Bean in Pomfret CT on Sunday mornings. I'll be at the Guzzi table...as an alumnus :-)
VT4L
The same. Being a lifetime anomaly, turning 69 this year, I want lower bars and more rearset pegs for my '04.
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When I checked, the reservoir was filled - no air space. So, I drew some fluid off and ran through a few cycles. Nope. Surely, replacing the entire hydraulic system and clutch will fix it but...
Here is the parts schematic from This Old Tractor: https://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/spare_parts_catalog_v11-sport_v11-lemans_v11-rosso-corsa_2012-02.pdf
Takes a while to load as it is a graphic and text-rich PDF. It seems that, lacking a fluid leak, air in the system would be the only likely (not the only possible) cause of the behavior.
OP bridge, have you change out levers for aftermarket? Just curious.
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8 minutes ago, bridge said:
First truly nice day here in coastal Maine. Got my 2003 V11 Lemans out of the garage. It started right up. That’s the good news. I have absolutely no clutch. Hydraulic fluid looks full and clean but there’s no resistance on the lever and the clutch is not operating. Please let me know where to look to diagnose the problem. Eager to ride.
Similar to what my '04 did when I last rode it. Except that the lever would return slowly and the clutch would drag, almost killing the engine at a stop. So, as it warms up, I guess some slave cylinder bleeding is in order. I just hope that I do not have to remove the motorcycle from the engine in order to do so.
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Connect stereo speaker leads to the PC545 and feed Johnny Winter into it. All the conditioning the battery can stand.
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That Guareschi Faux-mans has the most butt ugly fairing. C'mon, it's Italy. You can do better! Looks like this fellow's helmet painted red and hi-viz.
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A quirky bike is enough for me. A quirky battery is over the top. I believe that a Reading Pennsylvania Yuasa AGM will go in its place. Got 9 years out of the last one in a Kawi.
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On 7/17/2018 at 5:18 PM, SoCal Kevin said:
Thanks to the responses above + Google + YouTube I was able to see that by carefully inserting a very small screwdriver behind the clip I could work it out just enough to slip a second screwdriver (both flatheads) underneath and work the clip up and out of the groove. No issues once you understand the process. Hope this is able to help someone else save some time if they undertake the same project.
A lot of Japanese forks are the same. What is often done to the new clip is to bend one of the end out just enough to get a grip onit with needle nose pliers. Alternatively, one can grind a small relief on the outer perimeter so that the pick will find home easily next time.
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Regardless of venue, Guzzi owners seem to favor big jugs.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: To all the men who love large breasts, be patient...
You'll get them.
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Well, it's certainly a few bidders' cuppa tea, as the bidding is edging close to 9K. Twice the price and twice the mileage of Big Red. I'll settle for what I have, thank you.
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The real problem arises when the firing order is 1-1-1-1 or 2-2-2-2. In ('03 >) bikes(?) the forward crossover helps, but it helps one cylinder more than the other. If the exhausts were entirely separate, the temps and tuning would be closer but probably still not identical, due to the amount . 360º British twins have that 1-2-1-2 every 360º firing order and interval. The heavy flywheel helped make up for the odd firing interval, but dampened not only crank speed fluctuations, but rider enjoyment. As in politics, everything related to internal combustion is a compromise.
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First takeoff was in a 1941 Luscombe 8C. Dad bought it in flying condition for $500. Yeah, it was decades ago, but the plane is still registered and flown by a club in Vancouver, WA. Dad was among the post WWII aviators, so I grew up smelling like avgas. Grew up in the Luscombe, a Cessna Bobcat (think: Sky King/Kirby Grant - who I met in Hermiston, OR at a fly-in), a staggerwing Beech, a Bellanca, a Monocoupe, the odd 140/170 Cessna, a Stinson 105, an Ercoupe and IIRC, a 125HP Swift. Forgetting a few, but it was a really tight brotherhood. Bro and I played in the derelict fuselage of a BT13 trainer. Pilots in general aviation seem to gravitate toward the air-cooled, hands-on bikes, and even cars.
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Decent Tune-up
in How to...
Posted
Given the fine direction provided by the IllumiGuzzinati, here is the TPS harness all dressed with multimeter connectors attached and the yellow terminated with liquid electrical tape and tucked into the harness.