Bbennett
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Posts posted by Bbennett
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So I bypassed the fuel filter for a test - symptoms remain. The filter is not at fault.
Tried a new fuel regulator - did not solve problem. Really thought that might do it!
Tried a new fuel pump - did not solve problem. Pump sounds normal. Hmmmm.
No fuel suck.
Examined line for links - there are none.
Changed fuel.
Cleaned filter on petcock.
Map is known to be good (checked it).
Wow - am not sure what to try next? Might the throttle position sensor be at work here?
The symptoms are: bike starts immediately and runs just fine until you go up a hill or apply throttle rapidly at speed - then it starts coughing all to heck. Sometimes is impossible to get bike back to normal operation w/o turning it off. Usually it will start up and run normally after the ignition/pump recycles.
if I ride around at low throttle - could go all day til I hit a hill. On a flat road I can eventually get up to quite good speed.
??
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OK, that is the same petcock I have (original poster here).
So I removed the manual petcock and found quite a bit of gunk - presumably from bad petrol. I noticed the manual petcock did not seem to open all the way - and then compared it to other manual petcocks Greg had lying around. All appeared to not open all the way - so I assume this is "as designed".
I reinstalled the manual petcock after cleaning the filter, removing the bad gas that had rust particles --and the problem was still there.
I soldered the old electric petcock back together and re-installed it. The problem remains. Cavitation on freeway when throttle is applied quickly. Also happens on uphill situations.
So that leaves 3 possibilities:
1. The main fuel filter is clogged. I have never replaced it. I believe this is the culprit.
2. The fuel pump is failing and can't keep up in high fuel flow situations. I do not think a pump would work fine at low load and then fail at high loads.
3. A kinked fuel line. I do not see a kink the fuel line.
My next step is to replace the elec petcock with the manual one (since the manual one is proved to not be the problem). And wait for a new fuel filter.
Bob
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Thanks for all of the excellent replies. There is no suck issue on my red frame V11 and the fuel pump sounds normal. It feels like I am pumping fuel from a reservoir (e.g. the full fuel line) when I twist the throttle but the input to the reservoir (e.g petcock) cannot "refill" it at a fast enough rate. I will check filters and then revert back to old elec petcock as needed. I thought the manual petcock would be better in that it is "simpler"! I will report back, thanks again.
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Df2:
If you are hooking your airbox back up, be sure to re-attach to the tiny little temp sensor that it held on by two bolts to the airbox itself. It is possible that the previous owner removed said sensor and it is already "hooked up" and the sensor is simply sitting on the end of the sensor line happily. I am just telling you there was a sensor to attach to on the airbox as delivered.
Bob
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Here is a mystery. I installed a manual petcock and shielded by fuel lines with firesleeve on a 2002 V11 Sport. I have had no history of problems, just wanted to get rid of the elec petcock.
I can accelerate briefly at full throttle in town and on a short freeway onramp. BUT, if I apply too much throttle on the highway, I get severe cavitation after approx 3 seconds - feels like fuel starvation to me. 1-2 seconds of throttle twist is OK.
I reviewed the threads on Vapor lock - and I do not see or hear any evidence of it on my bike.
What is feels like (after 100 miles of very gingerly holding the throttle barely open and GRADUALLY applying throttle to get up to speed) is that the new petcock is not letting enough fuel thru. I am positive it is on full open.
There is also a slight high pitched whistle now at idle. Fuel pump spinup sounds normal.
ANy ideas on how I can get back to twisting the throttle again at will on the open highway?
Thanks,
Bob
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I added a real-time charging status indicator to my 2001 V11 just to see when the thing is charging (it is one LED and shows three different states in 3 different colors). Let me tell you it is an eye opener. My V11 (at least) is constantly running on the ragged edge of maintaining a charge. I really do not get a solid "green" (charging well) unless I am over 4K RPM's. Sometimes when I run around town on the bike, I never get it up to that RPM and ride is a net negative as far as charging. Turn on an accessory (heated vest is my only one) and the loading impact is *immediate* and will cause you to get an on/off switch for the accessory right away. Let me put is this way: the turn indicators affect my charging status below 4K RPM. My battery is an Oddyssey etc.
Bob
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I am planning to be on this ride
Bob
(Seattle)
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Honda Trail 90 - one the best steeds ever. It is on my top 10 list for sheer practicality and endurance. A true dirt bike is one that can be lifted over any obstacle!
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Totally agree. The "deals' you get on the Internet are often really just benefitting UPS or FEDEX. It is not hard to give business to my dealer; MotoInt in Seattle, God bless 'em.
Bob
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Matthew-
When the bike is set up properly the "dip" that we talk about with this engine is more of a stutter or a momentary hesitation. It sounds like you are experiencing more than that. My "dip" happens at more like 3100 RPM but it is very slight.
Pls make sure you are running with high Octane fuel of course.
It might be useful to have another V11 rider in the Bay area come have a look or ride your bike around when the engine is warm - just a thought.
Bob
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Go for the simplest possible solution: bad battery connection that somehow resonates like a violin bow at 4K RPM and causes momentary loss of contact.
Or the most unlikely solution: a horribly bad map at 4K (very unlikely).
At any rate, you are NOT imagining this problem. Stay tuned, someone here will have useful advice. In the meantime, please check your battery's terminal connections.
I also wonder if the spark plug wires (I forget the official term) might be bad on one side.
Bob
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Practical winter riding advice for V11 owners:
"place gloved hands firmly on top of the handy and very warm valve covers at every stoplight/opportunity in an attempt to get feeling back into fingers"
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2008 for my V11: new tires, Piazzo levers, HyperPro rear shock and progressive front springs, new front brake pads, LED voltage indicator, consolidated relays, new voltage regulator and custom addition of leather pouch behind left rear passenger pegs for "always there" tire repair kit.
The bike is totally sorted at the moment, knock on wood!
Bob
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Sounds like a weak battery. The V11 will not necessarily charge if just running around town at low RPM or idling alot. Try bump starting the bike in 2nd gear if convenient, this will let you start the motor without having the battery power to turn the starter that turns the motor....
But really, just put the thing on a trickle charger and try tomorrow.
Bob
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I call thread Hijack. Less talk, more pictures. Bonus points awarded for something remotely related to to Italy or even Moto Guzzi.
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Guzzirider - Please keep us posted on this interesting project. Those brackets do look nice BTW.
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Where else but here could I interact with some Scot with a V11? This is what the Internet is really for. Thank you Jaap. If you agree please contribute!
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First things first, your voltage on the battery is way below what it takes to start this bike. I think you need something like 11.5V. And one false start will draw many volts. Put the bike on a trickle charge and you will likely be fine.
Make sure the kickstand is up! And the kill swtch is noty active.....(sorry to mention).
I think your REAL issue is why did the batter get so low. This is why someone mentioned the Oddyssey battery - it will hold a charge better than the stock lump. But the problem could be deeper - let's not go there now. First things first!
By the way, there is nothing wrong with bump starting your bike....I did it for months at one point (long story).
Bob
edit: I originally said "jump" starting but meant "bump" starting is OK
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Good god man, please change the front tire! And prob the rear one whilst you are at it. Tires are the most important part of the machine
Bob
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I have the Pazzo's on both the clutch and front brake on my 2001 V11. They probably do not work any better than stock (though I do like the adjustment for my bulky winter gloves in the winter season) they do look cool. I have found they are objects of commonality with other high end sports bike riders and conversation of this nature is good. I will tell you, they are mainly of aesthetic value, and I recommend them highly.
Bob
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I take this as very bad news. The people who work there - surely some will decline to relocate to the new factory line and that is an issue with a storied brand like MG. I think they missed an opportunity to move newer models to the new line and continue to have some R&D and limited high end (hand made) model production in Mandello to retain people and not de-value the brand. The property would have only gotten more valuable in time at Mandello anyways. I admit that I have never visited the Mandello facility and base my opinion only on what I have read.
Bob
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This is a good thread. Bottom line for me: I have never been stranded on my 2001 V11
Oddly, I have more niggly problems just riding around town. When I get on the open road, the bike is rock solid reliable - although I am ready for a "stretch" by the time the gas tank is (semi
empty.Sometimes I come back from a ride and a few days later wonder "what if she had broken down" but too much thinking is bad for soul.
Bob
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Honda 50 w/ step thru frame. The sheer #'s guarantee it actually wins in all categories since adjectives like "coolest" and "blood thrilling" are subjective and certainly have been applied to this bike more than any other. Put 5 people on one of these and ride down a muddy back road in Indonesia - oh heck - make it at night.
Norton 750 and maybe even a Kaw 500 are other ones that come to mind.
Bob
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Pls show us a picture if you get around to it - thanks for the report
Bob
Fuel starvation at speed
in Technical Topics
Posted
That's a good suggestion (the reflective tape is peeling off big time uder the tank) but I have cylindrical K&N air filters.
I like the suggestion in that I have checked everything in the fuel system at this point - 1 item at a time. No joy. My thoughts
now wander to air intake and god help me - electrical.
I guess I could remove the PC-III to see what would happen - it has been on there for 5 yrs.
**Edit: tried that - no impact**
The problem is progressive. I can no longer get the bike up more than a 10 degree hill and am effectively garage bound.
Except for my Aprilia. But that is a monster to ride, espec in this heat.
Bob
P.S.
The little nipple at the bottom of the fuel regulator (yellow thing is pointing at it) is not supposed to have a line on it is it? And I assume that fact that the bottom the fuel regulator with said nipple rotates a little is not relevant...