stormsedge
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Posts posted by stormsedge
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Johno, I find that my RM gets squirrelly at anything less than 34F/37R...I typically run a higher pressure, about +3 or +4. I weigh in at about 200 pounds. Cheers. k
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In general, I have not had good luck with adjusting my PCIII with the exterior knobs either. The last time I had a similar problem, I did have cracked intake boots (you can usually see the cracks visually or try spraying them with a little carb cleaner when the engine is running to see if it stumbles fm the cleaner)...but by the time I changed them, I'd jacked my PCIII settings all up with the knobs. In the end, I hooked it up to my computer and reloaded my old settings (with richened low range) and the problem was solved. That's what I'd recommend you do if there is not a place nearby that can set it up for you.
Reset your PCIII to your original settings...if that still runs lean at the low end, save it to another file and richen the low band up to wherever the engine runs correctly. In my case, the "richer" program for pipe and airbox mods fm the PCIII website was still too lean in the 3000-3750 rpm range. k
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M, I find that if I do not get off and walk-around a little every hour or so that my knees start complaining first (32 inch inseam) and my butt starts going to sleep at about the two hour mark (without the walk)...my elbows will start hurting about the time my butt does (are they connected somehow?). Funny enough, the seating position does not bother my bad back (lower) at all...while trying to drive cross-country in our car will put it into spasms. I am officially over the 50 yr mark, fairly athletic, but with the aches and pains associated with age, the dumb things I did when younger in the name of "fitness", and exposure to the elements for over 25 years. I've pursued function over art in making the RM more "comfortable" for me...Rich Maud gel seat and rubber inset footpegs (really cuts out the vibration), MPH handler bar risers (the best mod I've done), and a nifty wool "saddle blanket" by Dpierre (which makes a big difference in the heat here in Florida). All said, I can't sit anywhere for over an hour without getting creaky, so I'll keep my RM and ride on...maybe I'll stop at the little country store up there for a biscuit and coffee. Keep smiling. k
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"With a pint of courage, Bob and Henry throw down with rock-paper-scissors before crossing the room...one of them must tackle the linebacker if the other is to enjoy the attention of the fair."
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Most often mistaken for Ducati...
...once though, this pimply kid on a Suzuki sport bike that he'd custom painted with a broom right before riding it through a barb wire fence and the occupants of the field (sheep I think) looked at the RM and said "geesh, did you buy it painted that color?"
Ya gotta love it.
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Van, you, your son and family are in my prayers. k
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Thanks Tom. k
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I've had the best luck with 3M spray adhesive.
And I owe Tom an apology for being cranky earlier. Sorry, Tom.
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Real nice Tom...
...my RM has sucked the alum insulator off the bottom of the tank twice now...so it is something I check before tearing into more complicated things...thanks for your enlightened opinion.
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Open air box?...sucked the insulator down off the bottom of the fuel tank, cutting off your air at rpm? k
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6500...buy it! You'll not regret it. k
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Yes - You'll need 4 seals of the same type. As far as I remember, you buy them seperately, and they are quite cheap as they fit a lot of Jap carbs.
What do I call the seal when I try to look up or purchase? Thanks. k
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I got over 10k miles on PRs (not 2's) @ just shy of 200lbs. Bought another set. k
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at the risk of being redundent---have you loosened the whole system up,jiggled&whiggled ,then tightened up like a head
Multiple wiggles and jiggles...tightened from back to front and front to back. Results the same...looks like I need to shorten a pipe. k
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My right side has a drip and gathers dirt as well. I also have a stumble and pop right around 3Krpm that I have been unable to cure. I hadn't thought that this could be the problem, but am now suspicious of it. Pls post what you do to fix. k
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Okay, I've had my aftermarket crossover for some time now, and am still dealing with some exhaust leaks. The leaks cause an occasional backfire at low speeds. After quite a bit of tinkering, it looks to me like my problem is that the crossover does not fit squarely on the downpipes because one is forward of the other due to the cylinder layout...both pipes are the same length. I am considering a hacksaw attack to shorten one pipe to allow the crossover to fit squarely. Has anyone had to make a cut of this nature to make things fit? k
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Or, you could loosen the clutch cylinder mount a little so you can change the angle of it...maybe loosing the air bubble in the process. I had a heck of a time getting my clutch cylinder to build pressure when I changed the line for the handlebar risers, but eventually it did. (Btw, to get a proper bleed on the brake system of my 79 Guzzi, I had to move the rear brake caliper to get the air out. k
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Just bought new rubbers for my airbox to carb / carb to motor. Just wanted to ask if there are any issues before I steam in and replace the old, cracked ones?
Many thanks.
I think I removed the gas tank and sidecovers to get at them. I was able to change them without removing the FI bodies from the cross brace. A little silicone spray goes a long way to put it back together. k
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Well, seems the addhesive didn't work as well as I would have liked, my bike started sputtering around 4k again. If I want to change the heat shielding, can I just go buy the stuff they sell at pepboys or autozone or do I need a special type for bikes/fiberglass tank?
Shouldn't matter as long as it won't deteriorate if it gets wet. k
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Directly after similar installs on my bike, which included an open airbox kit, I had similar problems. During the hot-rodding test phase, the open air box sucked the aluminum insulation panel from the bottom of the gas tank, effectively blocking airflow at certain rpm ranges. I check it and reglue once a year now. If it idles pretty well and starts cutting out above 3500 rpm or so, I'd suspect this as part of the problem. k
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Terrifies loud piped HDs at the stoplight...soccer mom's move their kids to the other side of the mini-van, away from the supposed shrapnel zone. You can't beat it. k
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sounds like the neutral switch symptoms I experienced...located on lower left rear of transmission---look under the starter...make sure you are in neutral, disconnect wire and run to a ground...it should start. it's a simple screw out, screw in change...you will lose only a little trans fluid if you are quick. k
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Anyone intend to be about in Daytona on 8th or 9th of March? k
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Just had new tires ordered (Mich Pilot Roads) and mounted by David at Cleveland Cycle Works in Cleveland, TN. Reasonably priced and more importantly, he did a great job, no nicks or scratches on the wheels and they are vibe free up to an indicated...uh...over the limit. He runs an extremely clean shop and is easy to work with. Look him up if you are in the area. www.clevelandcycleworks.com This is not too far down the road fm Athens, TN...believe that the meeting point for South Spine get-togethers. k
why do I need anything else?
in Newer models
Posted
They were giving demo rides at the Harley dealer yesterday...I didn't bother.
k