slug
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Posts posted by slug
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After over 3 years of happy Guzzi ownership i'm afraid i've got the itch for a Buell Lightning so im trading my 2001 Redframe Sport in partexchange for it .Rather than give the dealer all the good bits i've taken them of and put the original parts back.So if anybody is interested there is a virtually new Maxton Rear Shock,A Pair of Mistral Carbon Oval Cans,Stucchi Crossover,Silver Rear Wheel that takes a 160-170 section tyre and a Powercommander 111 for sale all in very good condition and only 2 years old.This is a great forum very informative and entertaining and you never know in a couple of years time another Guzzi may tempt me again.
First dibs on the shock!!!
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I would say that the welds is fairly level with the surface of the tubes. It looks like a typical fillet weld that I see and specify here at work (I design electronic enclosures). Actually the FBF weld was a lot neater than some I see from our vendors! I could send you the 2288 x 1712 picture that would allow you to zoom way in on the weld if you are truly interested.
I don't have any pictures of the crossover before adding the bracket, and no the tubes weren't purged before welding the brackets on. Why would you purge when the welds weren't supposed to penetrate through the tubes?
I don't think I'd be able to tell anything more with the larger photo. With stainless that thin, it's always a good idea to purge. Even though you may not have full penetration, the metal on the inside of the tube can get hot enough to start oxidizing/burning.
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Slug,
The welds on my FBF looked pretty good to me but I'm no expert. Here's a shot of mine after I had the brackets attached. Can you tell me if you see a problem with the FBF weld?
Hmm. It's hard to tell from that angle. Does the weld look sort of "sunken" below the level of the tubes? If it does, it might be bad. Wish I could see under the support bracket... Also, when the brackets were welded on, was the part purged?
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I used to sell the FBF crossovers at Moto Itnl. but stopped after a significant number began cracking, including the one on my own bike. The cause is not vibration or stress. The cause is insufficient purging during welding. This may not affect them all but appears to have affected one batch, at least.
If we're lucky, Slug will jump in here; after mine cracked, we checked his when he was here one day. His was cracking, too. He was once a welder of stainless. He looked at the welds and was able to see the proble right away.
Yep, what Mr. Field said. IMO the welds are suspect. The welds on my original and replacement FBF crossovers had severe undercutting and no crown which can indicate the lack of a purge when the part was being welded.
When my first one cracked, FBF said they'd inspect the welds on an new one and send it to me. (took 'em a while <_ when i received the new one checked welds and saw same problem. sent it back they refunded me.>
I bought a Stucci to replace it and couldn't be happier. Yes, the Stucci is heavier but it is better built and includes a bung for mounting an O2 sensor. The wall thickness of the tubing that Stucci uses is almost twice the thickness of the FBF. If FBF is going to use that thickness, then it is critical that the fit (I noticed a few spots where they had to force the joint together) and welds are perfect, as there's little margin for error.
Oh, performance-wise, I can't tell the difference between the two...
If you want the boring technical info on the weld failures, let me know...
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aww, let me run it in?
In to what?
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Note to self: Don't let Rossoandy take my bike out for a spin...
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Hey Cat -- I'm really interested in this too, having roached an FBF oval carbon somewhat worse than yours.
Sorry, since it's ALSO on the right-hand side, we're both looking for a "lefty" in good shape that's probably scarcer 'n hen's teeth..... <_>Seems to me that pounding out/welding/refinishing the stanless part would be easy enough. But who/where can you go for a replacement or repair of the CF??
Anyone here have any experience drilling out the rivets on one o' these and slipping the CF off?
Anybody with a roached-out lefty who might want to sell me their righty or split the cost of a new pair?
I reckon Cat should have first shot, since this is his thread.
Enquiring minds...(well, you know)
Please advise!
Can't speak for FBF mufflers, but I've drilled out the rivets and de-sleeved a Mistral aluminum round (now looking for some 4" OD aluminum tubing to replace the munched sleeve.) My guess is that there's very little difference.
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I installed the pilot powers on my 04 lemans last summer and I was absolutely amazed with the improvement over the bridgestone BTO 20's. The bike feels 100 pounds lighter in the corners, and the level of grip is more than I'll ever need. This was the best $$ i have spent on the bike since my Ti exhaust system.
+1!
The BT 020's made the bike steer like a dump truck with no power steering and a Club on the steering wheel. I replaced them with Pilot Roads and the improvement was amazing; better turning and good in the wet. Only had the Pilot Roads for 1500 miles when something bit a huge chunk out of the rear tire
Went up to the Pilot Power and they feel even better! -
I'm not certain but it is possible that 03 models that don't have the crossover are actually rebadged 02s. There has been much discussion about leaky problematic crossovers. And finally, Todd E. (RacerX) is doing these:
Yep. My '03 is a rebadged '02. No front crossover.
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I've forgotten to check to make sure the side stand was down before taking the bike off the shop stand. Flopped it on it's side in the garage. If the neighbors didn't know the f-word, they sure know it now.
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Where's the carbon fly screen from?
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WRT driveshaft lube -- there are 3 zerk fittings. Many posts and techniques to search on here. With only 4K miles you shouldn't have to worry about it f'er ahwile. My official Guzzi Service Schedule doesn't call f'er lubing the driveshaft until Service #3 at 12K mi. But YMMV
I seem to recall that some people have discovered that the factory or the dealer that did the prep failed to lube the splines (middle zerk) on the shaft. A quick squirt may not be a bad idea...
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Nice! More pics please!
I hope you have new head guards on the way?
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The racks will end up costing around $330.
They will accept any H+B bags. I got a couple of bags on Ebay. My Quota came with them. That gives me both 30L and 40L side bags. I have a 40L topcase.
You'll spend $800 to $1000 if you buy everything new.
Ooch. Thanks Mike!
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How much does the whole setup cost?
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Nice work!
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Ok, it looks like, coincidentally, the brake light burned out...so now I am just down to left rear not working (that would be my connection most likely) as for resistors, PJ's parts says 1 per side...usually. Thanks for the input...I'll post more when the demons return.
Hmm. Did you try switching the positive/negative leads on the left rear? Maybe they got flipped when installing the resistor? Current only flows one way on LED turn signals, so if the poles are flipped you get nothing.
I had an epic battle with my LED signals on my 02/03 Sport. The console turn indicator is wired way funky from the factory. The ground path for the console indicator routes all the way through the turn signal circuit, bulb included, opposite the signal being used (if that makes sense...) This caused all four signals to light up. I had to rewire the console indicator to get everything to work properly. If you want diagrams/instructions/schematics, let me know.
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So, any news?
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Following up:
My new Sachs rear shock arrived today, bought it on Ebay in Germany.
Just curious: how can I prevent it happening again? Lubricating the "eyes" of the shock? With WD40 or other thin grease?
WD-40 would be useless. I'd use a heavier grease. I'm a big fan of marine-grade bearing grease.
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Yea, get of yer butt and don't forget about those tank pads!
Awright, I will. As soon as I get over this fookin' cold...
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Slug
Is that the right way to put on your mg stand, I always thought it had to go the other way, in your pic it looks as though it lifts the back wheel (which i want to do) and is a 2 person job. Nice
by the way.Gary
I find it's easier to do it that way because I can hold the bike up with my right hand and align the stand with my left. Lifts real easy. Added bonus is that the handle doesn't stick out past the back of the bike. Nice for tight spaces like my garage.
The bike will be overstated enough once I get up off my butt and finish my mold for CF tail sections...
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I think they look better on the bike. 'Course I'm biased (mangled the stock ones when I crashed last year):
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And here’s one of those slugs I was talking about, a banana slug. These things look like a yellow polish sausage sliming along. If Mr. Slug is feeling comfortable, his head's up, his eyes and antennae are taking in the scenery, and he'll look like the most contented creature in the world. If you can get close without startling him, he'll just stare right back at you, sizing you up for a comment he never deigns to utter. I’m not so sure I’m comfortable being judged by mollusks, so I stay away from them. Like their smaller brethren, these slugs begin to quake in fear when you pull out the salt shaker.
That's the best shot anyone's ever taken of me. Oh yeah, this slug thinks you're ok!
Nice report, btw...
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I love the babelfish translation:
To the sales a special production made of high-grade steel with butterfly of Dynotec stands. The elbow unions were installed at a Moto Guzzi V11 Scura. The pipe diameter amounts to in front 43mm, in the back 50mm. In the two elbow unions is in each case a connection for Lambdasonden. The plant consists only of the parts, which are to be seen in the photo, without flanges, it is therefore not so easily to be installed. With something fate one can weld that surely suitably, screws themselves or otherwise which. Without clips or similar mounting material, therefore here starting from 1? for amateur handicraftsmen and Tueftler; -).
Theft damage
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This is what I love about the Guzzi community!