GuzziEagle

No reply on this since 2008 ?

Don't scare me.

My engine use the more sensible 270-450 which tend to be much smoother Thank Goodness, my head was starting to hurt from trying to force the math.

What I do is, each time I replace my rear tire (5-6000 mi.) I support the rear drive and pull it backwards to release the splined front half of the drive shaft. It then tips down far enough to allow the front u-joint to be lubed easily. I then replace the splines into the rear half of the drive shaft, careful to maintain the original shaft alignment. Mine has factory paint marks on the drive-shaft for alignment. Easy and well ahead of spec'd service intervals. Craig

Arie- Craig here - GuzziEagle - We met in front of Scudderia last Sunday. Here's a picture of my bike and my lovely wife. It should look familiar. I'm surprised the discussion of lash hasn't included tuning (or did I miss that). I think the feeling of lash is partly the ECU/fuel injection and partly the tune of the engine. I would be interested to try the snail curve cam - but I'm not going to make one. Sometimes when I need to ajdust the valves the lash seems much worse. If I put the bike in gear, first through sixth, and rock back and forth against the gears, the lash seems minimal. I think it would be hard to engineer a trans, driveshaft and rearend with less. And, after a while, you adjust to it. Hope to see you on the road. Craig

Bento; I've had a similar experience a few times 4 or 5 in the last 20,000 miles. Every time by turning off the ignition and restarting it runs fine. My explanation is, that if the temperature at the sensor is changing too rapidly the computer looses its place and it will not run. Turning the ignition off and on "Re-initialize" the program. I've never had to wait more than a few seconds to restart. The first time this happened I knew the engine was warm because I had just stopped to make a delivery. Came back out to the bike and there were a dozen high school kids sitting on the front steps of their school. The plan was to punch the ignition drop her into gear and roar away… imagine my amusement when my trusty steed spit, coughed, farted, gasped and died. Like the CPU didn’t know what to do. I put a leg down, hit the starter again, it started fine, I counted to two and took off without trouble but somewhat chastened. This has happened on very few occasions when the engine temperature is neither cold nor hot. Craig

Friends! My personal experience with the front U-joint was that it was impossible to get a grease gun on the Zerk without tilting the drive shaft down at the maximum angle. There was a lump of weld on the other U that made the fit too tight even after grinding the Sears swivel tip down some. So, after examining the diagrams of the drive shaft, I removed the rear wheel and supporting the rear drive so it didn't put weight on the drive shaft, I slid the rear drive back, without unbolting and still supported, until the front half of the driveshaft was free of the splines and would tilt down and rests on the swing-arm hole. Then with the Sears angled tip it was easy enough come from the back, through the hole in the swing arm, attach to the Zerk positioned at the top, then grease away to my hearts content. That is, until the discolored old grease is followed out of the ring seal by clean fresh grease. That is how I was taught to grease U-joints. Then with a stip of cloth and a chop stick I clean up. I findle the 36" x3" rag back and forth through the joint in various directions picking up as much proto-fling as possible - go for a short ride and clean up the rest. I will do this each time I replace the rear tire 3-6,000 Miles (Sometimes I buy sport-touring tires). I hope this helps others who, like me, shudder at the thought of removing a perfectly good swing-arm. Craig

I'm on the same page as you. But, who is Galeseti? I haven't seen any high pipes but the MG titaniums. Any direction appreciated. Thanks, Craig