Chuck

I'll take all that off your hands.. and use it.

Pretty awesome.. thanks for that.

From memory.. always suspect with me I fixed one like that with a broken solder joint at the ignition switch. Green wire, I think..

"when" I use it, I spray it on and immediately follow with a hose to rinse it off. Don't let it sit for *any* length of time.. just sayin.

Yes, it does work..comma but..(Hagen content) don't leave it on for any length of time, it is caustic. Spray it on, rinse it off immediately, and it will be fine for a quick clean up including oily road grunge.

It carries on. Colt, the MS's latest keeper, was on it at Guzzi lunch one day instead of his Grease O. He started the old girl up with the glorious sound from the Staintunes, and I said, "She's a bad MF er." He just smiled, and said, "I like it."

Well, at least Bev is getting better.

Sounds like a warranty issue to me. Want The Kid's phone number? Oh, never mind.. He and Nora are on vacation. Hell, it's just a machine. Fix it or have it fixed. They aren't making any more of them. Hope your sweetie's ok..and all the best to you, too, John.

Experience is a tough teacher. She gives you the test first.. then the lesson. Oh, btw.. a bad neutral switch wouldn't make the headlight stay on after turning the ignition off..

First I'd load test the battery. Voltage readings mean practically nothing. Once I knew the battery was good, I'd clean and apply fresh Vaseline to the ignition switch. Spritzing Caig DeOxit on the relays and relay bases is always a good thing.

Hoo wee.. I had the VFR's younger 600cc brother with it's top end oil delivery issue. Fun machine though, once sorted out.

Yep. The first thing to learn is that "it ain't a Honda." It *is* a kool machine, though, and worth the trouble to learn about it.

PM me your mailing address and for $50 US plus actual postage that can happen. I also have an unbreakable pawl spring if you want one.. another $10 if you want one thrown in the package. Supply is (ahem) *very* limited..

Yeah, WG is a shadow of it's former self since.. oh never mind.

On airplanes, the cylinder needing checked is put at TDC compression stroke. The prop is dangerous and is held tightly before turning on the air. The regulator sets the first gauge at 80 psi, and the second gauge shows the leakage. The prop then can be turned back and forth a degree or so to get the highest reading. A normal cylinder will be 75 psi or above. I don't get terribly concerned until it reads 70 or under. This will show leakage from rings at the crankcase breather, intake valves at the carb, or exhaust valves at the (wait for it) exhaust stack. It won't tell anything about valve guides, but since it is at TDC you can feel how much clearance there is by wiggling them around. Edit: I would put an on/off valve on the hose to the cylinder on the pictured rig. It makes things simpler.